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[Julian]

Right you are then, I'll look into the options when I get that far along, but I certainly won't be using anything flimsy. 

Thanks Dick that would be great.  Do you fit a perspex tube into a olive/compression fitting??  (gently)

Acrylic will crack and disintergrate eventually.  I've used it for several years, but have gone back to PVC again.

If you are going to use it, don't use olives.  The edges of the olive bite in and create an annular weak spot which promotes the tube snapping (ask me how I know!)

Best bet for fixing it is to use a couple of "O" rings in place of the olive, all same this ... http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Tips_and_wrinkles_1#.E2.80.99O.E2.80.99_rings_used_on_Acrylic_sight_glass

It was a while ago that I bought them, but you used to find 15 and 20mm OD acrylic on ebay.  The 15mm had quite a thick wall, but my preference was for the 20mm ... better view of the contents.  You can get 20mm compression fittings, sold for use with that blue PE water pipe of the same size.  I think BES do them.

[Dickjotec]

Thanks Dick that would be great.  Do you fit a perspex tube into a olive/compression fitting??  (gently)

I have some 10mm translucent tube as well if you want that. If I was using Perspex it would isolate it from the fitting with some flexible silicone tube then any vibration would not be transmitted.  (Yes I have the silicone tube as well) As the site tube is usually fitted with a valve most of the time it is isolated so if a leak does occur not much oil is lost.

[lozzzzzz]

Thanks, I thought I'd seen a picture of a sight tube somewhere on the wiki. 

Dick, it would be great to come over and look at the options at some point?  Do you like real ales??

[lozzzzzz]

Anyone used this before.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-CORRUGATED-FLEXIBLE-HOSE-FISH-GARDEN-POND-FILTER-PUMP-MARINE-FLEXI-PIPE-/171142284167?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Bird_Bath_Feeder_CV&var=&hash=item27d8e00387

I've used it before for something in the garage (can't remember now) and its very strong (won't crush).  Is it resistant to the chemicals?  Frustratingly I can't seem to find what material it is made from. 

[Dickjotec]

You might be better with this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wire-Reinforced-Vacuum-Suction-Delivery-Hose-Steel-Spiral-Helix-10M-Coil-/271276783271?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Supply_Material_Handling_ET&var=&hash=item3f295b36a7

Depending on length you need I might have some in central stores. Have a look when you come over. (Nb re real ales nephew is a brewer so have lots of real ales but nice cider goes down well!)

[Rotary-Motion]

I just got some 10mm opaque I can give you free, not clear like glass but would see level

nylon tube

[lozzzzzz]

Thanks for the kind offer, I'll go see Dick's rig again and talk through the options and my well take you up on that. 

That tube looks good Dick.  Is that the stuff you're using all over your rig?

I got lots of cool stuff in the post   I'll be attempting to make a quadruple 1m long condenser, I'll be (attempting) to put in two header flanges (go bog or go home right ) but as it stands don't have a good enough supply to the garage so I've just got a blanking plate for one of the flanges.  The nipples and valves have arrived (well the first lot).  It's all 1.25" so a bit pricey.  I've been telling Dick all about how this has to be done on a tight budget.......    well that didn't happen, as with everything I do, I read about it lots and end up trying to get the biggest or best I can   Its up to £300 at the moment, (barrels for suppliers, lean-to stuff, everything) and I'll be doing my best to stick to a £500 budget. 

The welding gear for the cone


Here is all the other stuff lines up


Yorkshire fitting for the condenser


Flanges and stuff


Finished pump and some valves (primarly to seal off the bottom of the cone so I can fill it with water to test it)


I had the pump finished quite early last night and was all set to try my hand at 0.6mm welding, then this happened. 


wanted to get the spare gearbox sealed up again so the grinding dust didn't contaminate it.  I'd got the box partly open, but could fully open it up and couldn't put it back together.  I tried one more time ,before giving up and adding it to the scrap pile and it opened up   So I spent the rest of the evening checking it and putting it back together (that was..... still is, a struggle!).  So if I can get the last circlip on tonight I can start the cone welding tonight. 

The misses is away for four days, and you know the saying.....    While the cats the away, the mice will make bio gear

More to come!

[Dickjotec]

Yes I advise using solid tube on a processor then use the rienforced plastic myself!

[lozzzzzz]

You sound like a teacher.....    Do as I say not as I do  

The engineer in me says that I shouldn't have all this gear solidly mounted together.  The pump should be isolated from other item by some soft piping for vibration and longevity reasons.  I understand the chemistry adds a complications though. 

[kamaangir]

The pump should not be vibrating enough to cause an issue. If it is its not mounted solidly enough. Any way you have what looks to be a quality pump, not a cheapanise copy, which would vibrate due to poor construction. 

[Tony]

That ribbed black plastic stuff cracks over time, I've used it before for WVO pumping and it required replacement every 6 months.  The clear stuff with wound reinforcing spiral is good though (for cold WVO).

Hot bio I've used grey speedfit pipe (with brass compression fittings and inserts), it's surprisingly tough stuff, but does go softer with temperature.  It's best plumbed in metal but as a temporary measure speedfit is an option - at your own risk, of course!

My discharge pipe is speedfit and that is many many years old, regularly takes 90C bio and is still going...  it came with some processor parts where the guy had been using it in the main pumped loop for a year - and demething with it like that.

[lozzzzzz]

Hmmmmmmm......   I'd like to do a proper job of it.  I might try cutting some tread on the lathe, I've not done it before but it means I could make any length instead of ordering bits.  I can't do a whole loop in BSP though there must be a break from it as you can't tighten the last fitting  

I made some serious progress last night and today. 

Got the cone welded on (thanks for the 0.6mm advice, its much more..... "delicate" and argon is much nicer than CO2).  First I welded on the nipple for the valve as I could test everything by filling up with water.  You can have a good laugh at this welding, it went baaaaaadly!!!!
And I got angry with it and piles on more weld and eventually I was left with a smooth weld (lots of it) but I couldn't believe my eyes when it worked, no leaks


I then put the whole thing in the vice


Placed the barrel on top with a couple of differentials to weigh it down (reduce the gap)


I cut most of the excess material away and tack welded it in place.


Then took it down and put it on the bench and hammered the edge flush against the barrel as I went


This mostly went really well, again I couldn't believe how well it worked really   I tested it this morning and there were 3 leaks. 


All patched up and painted (silver being the only paint I had)


Then it was on to the condenser.  I used the die grinder for the fittings


Insulation tape to hold a bolt in place as a jig for the length, and the spanner meant the vice always closed to the right gap.


I enlisted the help of my dad who has done lots before.  I haven't done any pipe soldering before, Its quite fun


It doesn't sit flat on the floor, I seem to have made it with a bit of a twist included, I'm hoping the gas won't mind   This is the shower pump I plan to use to circulate the cooling water, its a pump my folks had hanging around. 


Then on to the heater flanges, I wanted two to speed things up when I can get a more substantial electricity supply. 





And the second flange higher up. 



I'm really pleased with the result.  I tested the tank again with water.  The top one seemed fine but the bottom was leaking, I think is down to the fact that the heater was in hand tight only.  I need  a spanner really.  This is all the solder I had left      Lucky!  well not if it turns out the bottom flange is leaking


I've sort of exhausted all my options for a bit, need to visit the Wiki again and do some learning, then some ordering then make the venturi, a stand for it all and begin to put some bits together. 


Can I say a hearty thank you to you all for the wealth of information that I've got access too.  I know I've said this a lot, but I'm planning to do the tank building wiki tomorrow afternoon/evening and give something back.  Thanks a lot folks. 


Dick, is tomorrow afternoon any good to come round and loot as some hose options?  I can come in the week if you'd prefer??

[lozzzzzz]

On another note, I met a chap in Bromyard today (while buying pipe bits) who has made lots of bio.  We got chatting and he assured me that I should be bubbling the bio afterwards to remove any trace of meth.  I thought that's what the condenser did??  Does the condenser and GL processor have a limit beyond which it cannot remove any more??   Or perhaps he wasn't using the GL type at all.  I should have asked more questions. 

[greasemonkey]

Very tidy.

[Julian]

On another note, I met a chap in Bromyard today (while buying pipe bits) who has made lots of bio.  We got chatting and he assured me that I should be bubbling the bio afterwards to remove any trace of meth.  I thought that's what the condenser did??  Does the condenser and GL processor have a limit beyond which it cannot remove any more??   Or perhaps he wasn't using the GL type at all.  I should have asked more questions.

Hmmm, I can see you're not going to fit in here at all well.  Workman ship way too good and bench far too tidy.  I've got a good run of bench space, and the last time I saw the tops clear was just after I built them!

The condenser will eventually remove the methanol, but it's a long and consequently costly process.  You have to go way above the boiling point.  It's usually more economical to recover the bulk of the methanol then wash or bubble out the balance.

Also when using NaOH or ASM, if you remove every last drop of methanol, the glycerin becomes vicious and more difficult to drain, especially if it cools for any reason.