Difference between revisions of "Plumbing fittings"

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The bit of code below assists indexing on search engines.  Replace "Biodiesel new page" with a very brief description of what the page is about. Then delete this text.
 
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<metadesc>Plumbing fittings & Tools</metadesc>
 
<metadesc>Plumbing fittings & Tools</metadesc>
  
  
  
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{{WIP}}
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A brief discription of the fittings and tools used in making a processor or filter set up.
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A brief discription of the fittings and tools used  
 
  
  
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__TOC__
 
__TOC__
  
 +
==Pipe==
 +
Available in lengths of upto 6 metres and the 8 and 10 in rolls upto 50 metres.
 +
Diameters include 8,10,15,22 and 28 mm it can be also obtained chrome plated.
  
 +
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Copper_pipe.jpg |Copper pipe
 +
File:Chromed_copper_pipe.jpg  |Chromed copper pipe
 +
</gallery>
  
 
==Fittings==
 
==Fittings==
 +
Fittings are used in pipe and plumbing systems to connect straight pipe or tubing sections, to adapt to different sizes or shapes, and for other purposes.
 +
There are basically two types of copper fittings,compression and capillary.
 +
A compression fitting comprises of the body an olive and the nut,the nut is threaded onto the body of the fitting and tightened to make a leakproof connection. Fittings are typically made of brass.
 +
There are two types of capillary - end feed/copper sweat and yorkshire/solder ring/integral ring joint.
 +
 +
 +
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
−
File:Fittings1.jpg |sight tube and valves
+
File:Fittings1.jpg |Top row-Straight connector/coupler, Bt row-90/Elbow/Street elbow L-R end feed/yorkshire/compression
−
File:Fittings2.jpg |Side view
+
File:Fittings2.jpg |L-R 45 Regular Elbow-End feed,Stopend-yorkshire, 22-15 Reducer
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
 +
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
−
File:Fittings3.jpg |sight tube and valves
+
File:End_feed_90.jpg |End feed 90/Elbow
−
File:Fittings4.jpg |Side view
+
File:Compression_Straight_coupler.jpg |Straight coupler - Compression
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
 +
 +
 +
Elbow/90/Street elbow
 +
 +
An elbow is a pipe fitting installed between two lengths of pipe or tubing to allow a change of direction, usually a 90° or 45° angle, though 22.5° elbows are also made.
 +
Most elbows are available in short radius or long radius types.
 +
 +
Coupler/Straight connector
 +
 +
A coupling connects two pipes to each other. If the size of the pipe is not the same, the fitting may be called a reducing coupling or reducer.
 +
 +
Reducer
 +
 +
A reducer allows for a change in pipe size.
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
−
File:Fittings5.jpg |sight tube and valves
+
File:Fittings3.jpg |Equal tee-Yorkshire,Unequal tee/Reducing tee 22-15-15-End feed
−
File:Fittings6.jpg |Side view
+
File:Fittings4.jpg |Olive (can be copper or brass),Insert-Nylon/Metal
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
 +
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
−
File:Fittings7.jpg |sight tube and valves
+
File:Olive.jpg |Olive (can be copper or brass)
 +
File:Compression_tee.jpg |Compression tee
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>
  
  
 +
Tee
  
−
===First Sub-heading here===
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A tee is used to either join or split a flow. Most are tees with the same inlet and outlet sizes, but reducing/unequal tees are available as well.
−
Text and photo content here ...
 
  
−
Delete if not required.
 
  
  
−
===Second sub-heading here===
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<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
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Text and photo content here ...
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File:Fittings5.jpg |Tank connector with a nylon and fibre washer
 +
File:Fittings6.jpg |L-R 1"BSP to 22mm Metric joiner,22mm Yorkshire to 3/4" BSP Tap connector, Hosetail-Male thread
 +
</gallery>
  
−
Delete if not required.
+
Tank connector
  
 +
Joins pipes to cylinders and cisterns or in our case 45 gal drums.
 +
Do not use the supplied washers with biodiesel as they will deteriorate, replace them with nylon or fibre etc.
  
 +
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Fittings7.jpg |Washing machine connectors 3/4" BSP with a 3/4" Tap connector
 +
</gallery>
  
  
  
−
==Second heading here==
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===Valves===
−
Text and photo content here ...
+
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Ball_lever_valve.jpg|Ball lever valve (always use full bore)
 +
File:Gate_valve.jpg|Gate valve
 +
</gallery>
 +
Ball valves/lever valve
 +
 
 +
A ball valve is a valve with a spherical disc, the part of the valve which controls the flow through it. The sphere has a hole, or port, through the middle so that when the port is in line with both ends of the valve, flow will occur. When the valve is closed, the hole is perpendicular to the ends of the valve, and flow is blocked. The handle or lever will be inline with the port position letting you "see" the valve's position.
  
−
Delete if not required.
+
Gate valve
  
 +
A gate valve is a valve that opens by lifting a round or rectangular gate/wedge out of the path of the fluid.
  
−
===First Sub-heading in second heading here===
+
===Other===
−
Text and photo content here ...
 
−
Delete if not required.
 
  
 +
Fitting a heater flange ring [http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Fitting_a_heater_flange HowTo]
  
−
===Second Sub-heading in second heading here===
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<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
−
Text and photo content here ...
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File:Heater_flange.jpg |Heater ring (solder on)
 +
File:Mechanical_flange.jpg|Mechanical flange with fibre washer
 +
</gallery>
  
−
Delete if not required.
+
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Heater.jpg|Immersion heater, fibre washer and thermostat
 +
</gallery>
  
 +
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Dispensing_nozzle.jpg |Dispensing nozzle
 +
File:Filter.jpg |10" filter housing, element and pressure gauge
 +
</gallery>
  
−
etc etc
+
Dispensing nozzle
  
 +
Check that the O rings/seals are biodiesel compatable.
  
 +
Filter housing
  
 +
Normally either 3/4" or 1" BSP threads.
  
 +
If you use PTFE tape when fitting an immersion heater try and get the gas type as it is thicker.
  
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End the page with the headings below...
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==Tools==
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==See also==
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<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
−
Use if there are similar pages in the wiki, if not delete.
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File:Bender.jpg|Pipe bender with formers
 +
File:Box_wrench.jpg|Immersion heater box spanner and 12v Immersion heater
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Pipe_cutters.jpg |Various pipe cutters
 +
File:Soldering_kit.jpg|Gas torch, solder and flux
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Spanner.jpg |Immersion heater spanner
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
<gallery caption="Click pictures to enlarge" widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2" align="center">
 +
File:Pipe_bending_spring.jpg  |Pipe bending spring
 +
File:Selection_of_tools.jpg |Selection of tools
 +
</gallery>
 +
 
 +
Using a pipe bender.
 +
 
 +
Hold the pipe against the radiused former, then insert the straight former to support the pipe then pull the levers together.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
===Various===
 +
Hole size required.
 +
 
 +
Mechanical flange 65mm.
  
−
* Link within this wiki here
+
22mm Tank connector 1 1/16".
−
* Link within this wiki here
 
−
* Link within this wiki here
 
  
 +
15mm Tank connector 22mm.
  
−
==References==
+
You can file or drill out the "stop" on tank connectors which will allow the pipe to pass through.
−
Use if you need to cite reference material you've used , if not delete.
 
  
−
# First ref here
+
Most pumps i.e. TAM105s have a 1" BSP parellel thread so normally you would need 2 of 22mm compression x 1" BSP for your processor.
−
# Second ref here
 
  
 +
2 1/4" mild steel weldable sockets are available from a vegetableoildiesel forum member and a stainless steel version is obtainable commercially.
  
−
==Further reading==
+
For a water washing spray nozzle the brass fitting on a cheap pump up sprayer is ideal.
−
Use if you can detail any useful reading matter, if not delete.
 
  
−
* Book details here
+
==Pockets==
−
* Book details here
+
You can make a pocket for a thermometer or thermocouple by filing out the stop on a 15mm tank connector, pass a short piece of 15mm pipe through this and solder on a 15-10mm or 15-8mm reducer then solder in the required length of 8 or 10mm pipe and solder on an end cap.
−
* Book details here
 
  
−
==External links==
+
===Fitting a tank connector in a tight head drum===
−
Use if you can list any useful links on the internet, if not delete.
+
What you need is the tank connector a drill the same size as the threads on the connector 2 nylon washers for each tank connector a length of string and a wire coat hanger.
  
−
* Link outside this wiki here
+
How to do it, straighten the coat hanger then grip it with pliers 1/2" from the end and bend it around the plies to make a hook, measure the threads on the tank connector and drill the hole, the threads want to be a tight fit to the hole, tie the nut to the string and drop the nut through the filler hole, keep hold of the string so that you are just holding it off the bottom of the tank put the hook through the hole you have just drilled and hook the string and pull it through the hole, tie it of somewhere so that it wont get pulled back into the tank.
−
* Link outside this wiki here
+
Next the other end of the string, put 1 nylon washer on to the tank connector up to the flange - you can put silicon sealer on the washer if you want, push the string through the tank connector so that when you pull it into the tank the threaded end enters first.  From the flange end make a loop in the string then tie the nut from the tank connector onto the string so that you can pull the tank connector through the hole you drilled, you also want to be able to recover the nut so dont make a quick release knot when you get the threads through the hole pull it up tight so that the flange is against the inside of the tank, then you can recover the string with the 2 nuts on it, then fit another nylon washer and silicon then the check nut and pull up tight put the olive and nut on and you are done.
−
* Link outside this wiki here
 
  
 +
Courtesy of JIM.M
  
 +
==See also==
  
−
Originator to sign and date here by using 4 "squiggle marks"
 
  
 +
* [[Fitting a heater flange ]]
  
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<nowiki> ... delete this "nowiki" tag once you have set your categories (it's just there to stop this section getting indexed on the main page!)
 
  
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Add categories ... By using categories your page will get indexed on the wiki main page.
 
  
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For Biodiesel ...
 
  
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[[Category:Biodiesel]] sets the main category.
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 +
[[User:KH|KH]] 21:30, 17 October 2012 (BST)
  
  
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Now select one from the following, deleting the others:
 
  
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[[Category:Introduction to Biodiesel]]
 
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[[Category:Ingredients and preparation]]
 
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[[Category:Processing methods]]
 
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[[Category:Processors and equipment]]
 
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[[Category:Finishing]]
 
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[[Category:Safety and Testing]]
 
  
  
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Do the same for Veg oil ...
 
  
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[[Category:vegetable oil]]
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[[Category:Biodiesel]]  
  
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Select one from the following, and delete the others:
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[[Category:Processors and equipment]]
  
−
[[Category:Introduction to veg oil use]]
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[[Category:vegetable oil]]
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[[Category:Collection & regulations]]
 
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[[Category:Filtration & drying equipment]]
 
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[[Category:Testing]]
 
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[[Category:Vehicle modifications]]
 
  
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If your page is applicable to both veg and bio, you can have a total of four category listings.
 
  
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Please Note:  To get your page indexed on the main page it is necessary, to got to the main page, click the edit tab and then click save.
 
  
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</nowiki>  ... delete this "/nowiki" tag once you have set your categories (it's just there to stop this section ge
+
[[Category:Filtration & drying equipment]]

Latest revision as of 19:34, 1 March 2013


A brief discription of the fittings and tools used in making a processor or filter set up.


Pipe

Available in lengths of upto 6 metres and the 8 and 10 in rolls upto 50 metres. Diameters include 8,10,15,22 and 28 mm it can be also obtained chrome plated.

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Copper pipe

  • Chromed copper pipe

Fittings

Fittings are used in pipe and plumbing systems to connect straight pipe or tubing sections, to adapt to different sizes or shapes, and for other purposes. There are basically two types of copper fittings,compression and capillary. A compression fitting comprises of the body an olive and the nut,the nut is threaded onto the body of the fitting and tightened to make a leakproof connection. Fittings are typically made of brass. There are two types of capillary - end feed/copper sweat and yorkshire/solder ring/integral ring joint.


  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Top row-Straight connector/coupler, Bt row-90/Elbow/Street elbow L-R end feed/yorkshire/compression

  • L-R 45 Regular Elbow-End feed,Stopend-yorkshire, 22-15 Reducer

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • End feed 90/Elbow

  • Straight coupler - Compression


Elbow/90/Street elbow

An elbow is a pipe fitting installed between two lengths of pipe or tubing to allow a change of direction, usually a 90° or 45° angle, though 22.5° elbows are also made. Most elbows are available in short radius or long radius types.

Coupler/Straight connector

A coupling connects two pipes to each other. If the size of the pipe is not the same, the fitting may be called a reducing coupling or reducer.

Reducer

A reducer allows for a change in pipe size.

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Equal tee-Yorkshire,Unequal tee/Reducing tee 22-15-15-End feed

  • Olive (can be copper or brass),Insert-Nylon/Metal

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Olive (can be copper or brass)

  • Compression tee


Tee

A tee is used to either join or split a flow. Most are tees with the same inlet and outlet sizes, but reducing/unequal tees are available as well.


  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Tank connector with a nylon and fibre washer

  • L-R 1"BSP to 22mm Metric joiner,22mm Yorkshire to 3/4" BSP Tap connector, Hosetail-Male thread

Tank connector

Joins pipes to cylinders and cisterns or in our case 45 gal drums. Do not use the supplied washers with biodiesel as they will deteriorate, replace them with nylon or fibre etc.

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Washing machine connectors 3/4" BSP with a 3/4" Tap connector


Valves

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Ball lever valve (always use full bore)

  • Gate valve

Ball valves/lever valve

A ball valve is a valve with a spherical disc, the part of the valve which controls the flow through it. The sphere has a hole, or port, through the middle so that when the port is in line with both ends of the valve, flow will occur. When the valve is closed, the hole is perpendicular to the ends of the valve, and flow is blocked. The handle or lever will be inline with the port position letting you "see" the valve's position.

Gate valve

A gate valve is a valve that opens by lifting a round or rectangular gate/wedge out of the path of the fluid.

Other

Fitting a heater flange ring HowTo

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Heater ring (solder on)

  • Mechanical flange with fibre washer

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Immersion heater, fibre washer and thermostat

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Dispensing nozzle

  • 10" filter housing, element and pressure gauge

Dispensing nozzle

Check that the O rings/seals are biodiesel compatable.

Filter housing

Normally either 3/4" or 1" BSP threads.

If you use PTFE tape when fitting an immersion heater try and get the gas type as it is thicker.

Tools

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Pipe bender with formers

  • Immersion heater box spanner and 12v Immersion heater

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Various pipe cutters

  • Gas torch, solder and flux

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Immersion heater spanner

  • Click pictures to enlarge

  • Pipe bending spring

  • Selection of tools

Using a pipe bender.

Hold the pipe against the radiused former, then insert the straight former to support the pipe then pull the levers together.



Various

Hole size required.

Mechanical flange 65mm.

22mm Tank connector 1 1/16".

15mm Tank connector 22mm.

You can file or drill out the "stop" on tank connectors which will allow the pipe to pass through.

Most pumps i.e. TAM105s have a 1" BSP parellel thread so normally you would need 2 of 22mm compression x 1" BSP for your processor.

2 1/4" mild steel weldable sockets are available from a vegetableoildiesel forum member and a stainless steel version is obtainable commercially.

For a water washing spray nozzle the brass fitting on a cheap pump up sprayer is ideal.

Pockets

You can make a pocket for a thermometer or thermocouple by filing out the stop on a 15mm tank connector, pass a short piece of 15mm pipe through this and solder on a 15-10mm or 15-8mm reducer then solder in the required length of 8 or 10mm pipe and solder on an end cap.

Fitting a tank connector in a tight head drum

What you need is the tank connector a drill the same size as the threads on the connector 2 nylon washers for each tank connector a length of string and a wire coat hanger.

How to do it, straighten the coat hanger then grip it with pliers 1/2" from the end and bend it around the plies to make a hook, measure the threads on the tank connector and drill the hole, the threads want to be a tight fit to the hole, tie the nut to the string and drop the nut through the filler hole, keep hold of the string so that you are just holding it off the bottom of the tank put the hook through the hole you have just drilled and hook the string and pull it through the hole, tie it of somewhere so that it wont get pulled back into the tank. Next the other end of the string, put 1 nylon washer on to the tank connector up to the flange - you can put silicon sealer on the washer if you want, push the string through the tank connector so that when you pull it into the tank the threaded end enters first. From the flange end make a loop in the string then tie the nut from the tank connector onto the string so that you can pull the tank connector through the hole you drilled, you also want to be able to recover the nut so dont make a quick release knot when you get the threads through the hole pull it up tight so that the flange is against the inside of the tank, then you can recover the string with the 2 nuts on it, then fit another nylon washer and silicon then the check nut and pull up tight put the olive and nut on and you are done.

Courtesy of JIM.M

See also



KH 21:30, 17 October 2012 (BST)

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