Author Topic: Centrifuge photos for Knighty  (Read 18007 times)

Offline orange vito

  • Wiki Editor
  • Barrel scraper
  • *
  • Posts: 37
  • Location: sheffield
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #45 on: May 30, 2015, 06:28:23 PM »
Would a car brake drum inside a truck brake drum be safe??
I would have thought a truck drum would stop most bits if it ddi go tits up.

Online dgs

  • Wiki Editor
  • Grand Gunge Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 1338
  • Location: york
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #46 on: May 31, 2015, 03:27:49 PM »
So, tell me guys,
What contaminants will a fuge remove from finished bio, lets say it's been settled and not water washed.

How would it cope with dissolved water and would it totally remove magnesol.
FOC water tests by Sandy brae or Karl Fischer for forum members.

Offline Jamesrl

  • Wiki Editor
  • Oil baron
  • *******
  • Posts: 2163
  • Location: Witsend, Cockoo Land
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #47 on: May 31, 2015, 04:54:39 PM »
How would the suggested two brake drums be fixed to each other?

Offline Julian

  • Administrator
  • Oil baron
  • *******
  • Posts: 6389
    • Used Cooking Oil Collection website
  • Location: East Surrey, UK.
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #48 on: May 31, 2015, 05:08:26 PM »
So, tell me guys,
What contaminants will a fuge remove from finished bio, lets say it's been settled and not water washed.

How would it cope with dissolved water and would it totally remove magnesol.

I never tried my centrifuge on bio.  It was built with the intention of cleaning WVO.

Nathan used to run his finished bio through a pressure driven centrifuge.  I remember him saying it pulled out quite a lot of crud.

He was going to write a wiki page on centrifuges and I think started one here ... http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Centrifuges (spookily there's a picture of my centrifuge on there).  With the logic of something is better than nothing, I'll categorise the page so it shows up in the index, head it as incomplete and upload the photos from photo bucket (or whereever) to the wiki.

Used Cooking Oil Collection website ... http://www.surreyusedcookingoilcollection.palmergroup.co.uk

Offline orange vito

  • Wiki Editor
  • Barrel scraper
  • *
  • Posts: 37
  • Location: sheffield
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #49 on: May 31, 2015, 05:41:13 PM »
How would the suggested two brake drums be fixed to each other?

hi Grandad 8)
I was thinking of the truck drum being the outer part of the fuge, with the motor on it.
car drum being the rotor, truck drum being the collector.

Offline Jamesrl

  • Wiki Editor
  • Oil baron
  • *******
  • Posts: 2163
  • Location: Witsend, Cockoo Land
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #50 on: May 31, 2015, 07:50:53 PM »
I've also run finished bio through my pressure driven fuge, it's amazing how much soap/glyc/waxy like crap gets spun out.

The problem with that type of fuge is you don't have much, if any, control over flow rate or g force.

Offline Julian

  • Administrator
  • Oil baron
  • *******
  • Posts: 6389
    • Used Cooking Oil Collection website
  • Location: East Surrey, UK.
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #51 on: May 31, 2015, 09:56:26 PM »
Done a little on Nathans wiki centrifuge page and rescued all the photos.

This is the one showing the crud collected from finished bio ...



Difficult to tell from the photo, but I recon there could be a dark (possibly glycerin) layer beneeth the creamy layer.

It's certainly got me thinking that centrifuging finished bio might be a good thing.
Used Cooking Oil Collection website ... http://www.surreyusedcookingoilcollection.palmergroup.co.uk

Offline Jamesrl

  • Wiki Editor
  • Oil baron
  • *******
  • Posts: 2163
  • Location: Witsend, Cockoo Land
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #52 on: May 31, 2015, 10:56:48 PM »
I've never had the glyc layer but my creamy layer is a little darker.

The colder the bio is the more creamy crap you can get out.

If youhave a soapy batch DON'T try to fuge the soap out with a pressure fuge, you'll end up with enough foam to put an aircraft fire out. Let the soap settle out first.

Online dgs

  • Wiki Editor
  • Grand Gunge Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 1338
  • Location: york
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #53 on: June 02, 2015, 07:30:04 PM »
Quote from: Julian

It's certainly got me thinking that centrifuging finished bio might be a good thing.
[/quote

Yes, me too.
Just been looking at Beyond Biodiesel, someone on there feeds a pressure driven fuge from a pressureised tank, so no need for the pump.
FOC water tests by Sandy brae or Karl Fischer for forum members.

Offline photoman290

  • Wiki Editor
  • Oil obsessive
  • *****
  • Posts: 803
  • Location: west cornwall
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #54 on: June 03, 2015, 12:41:59 AM »
Quote from: Julian

It's certainly got me thinking that centrifuging finished bio might be a good thing.
[/quote

Yes, me too.
Just been looking at Beyond Biodiesel, someone on there feeds a pressure driven fuge from a pressureised tank, so no need for the pump.

that sounds doable in a stainless water tank. they are designed for 10 bar and you need 7 bar.

Offline knighty

  • Wiki Editor
  • Oil obsessive
  • *****
  • Posts: 534
  • Location: Sunderland, UK
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #55 on: June 03, 2015, 01:20:57 AM »
or a compressor tank ?

fill it with oil, then connect it up to your air line ?

Online dgs

  • Wiki Editor
  • Grand Gunge Master
  • ******
  • Posts: 1338
  • Location: york
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #56 on: June 03, 2015, 01:55:09 PM »
Yes, that sort of thing. I think it was a compressor tank he used, meant to go up to 200psi but he was using it at 100. Seems a simple idea if you don't have the pump.

I've just completed my first batch of settle only bio, although the 50/50 is excellent I'm still not convinced. I will post some pics later on a new thread.
FOC water tests by Sandy brae or Karl Fischer for forum members.

Offline nathanrobo

  • Wiki Editor
  • Valve head
  • ****
  • Posts: 359
  • Location: Kettering
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #57 on: June 05, 2015, 09:12:46 AM »
So, tell me guys,
What contaminants will a fuge remove from finished bio, lets say it's been settled and not water washed.

How would it cope with dissolved water and would it totally remove magnesol.

You should be able to remove everything other than water, maybe even water if you are thinking about the motor driven spinning  bowl.  I know chemiphase were even concerned that a centrifuge could separate winteriser after it had been completely mixed in (not sure what that says either about winteriser or the centrifuge).

Offline nathanrobo

  • Wiki Editor
  • Valve head
  • ****
  • Posts: 359
  • Location: Kettering
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #58 on: June 05, 2015, 09:17:38 AM »
Done a little on Nathans wiki centrifuge page and rescued all the photos.

This is the one showing the crud collected from finished bio ...



Difficult to tell from the photo, but I recon there could be a dark (possibly glycerin) layer beneeth the creamy layer.

It's certainly got me thinking that centrifuging finished bio might be a good thing.

The pic was from Chad in Nuneaton... Typically, even from well water washed fuel there will be a bit of the dark brown sticky stuff.  Probably glyc, could be polymerised bio or wvo (a few teaspoons full from 180 litres, if it were wvo wouldn't show up in a 10/90 - but would WVO be heavier than bio?).  In the summer, this may be all that you would get, but in the winter the cream stuff - shown on Chad's pic will be plentiful.

I was talking to Rob Perrie recently and he describes exactly the same.

Offline nathanrobo

  • Wiki Editor
  • Valve head
  • ****
  • Posts: 359
  • Location: Kettering
Re: Centrifuge photos for Knighty
« Reply #59 on: June 05, 2015, 09:21:08 AM »
I've never had the glyc layer but my creamy layer is a little darker.

The colder the bio is the more creamy crap you can get out.

If youhave a soapy batch DON'T try to fuge the soap out with a pressure fuge, you'll end up with enough foam to put an aircraft fire out. Let the soap settle out first.

Not sure... Steve Dewin, used a pressure fuge with settled (non-water washed).  Think he ran off his soap after demething, then centrifuged from one tank to a clean tank, then back again and got soap plus glyc in his fuge.