Bio in a PD130 engine

[lozzzzzz]

There is a slim chance I might have reached a point where I can start thinking about, considering making some B100 for the GF's car, a Seat Ibiza FR, with a lovely PD130 engine. 

From what I've read on here and the Wiki page, for a PD engine, the Bio must be B100, and free from HMPEs.  My understanding is that if I get the oil completely dry, and make lovely B100, then extract all the meth and bubble for ages, and settle for a very long time, then there should be no drama's.  The settling (outdoors in the cold) being key to getting the waxy HMPEs out?

Right???

(I'll put an update on the MR2 TDI up when I can get the engine running   )

Thanks folks

[Dickjotec]

There is a slim chance I might have reached a point where I can start thinking about, considering making some B100 for the GF's car, a Seat Ibiza FR, with a lovely PD130 engine. 

From what I've read on here and the Wiki page, for a PD engine, the Bio must be B100, and free from HMPEs.  My understanding is that if I get the oil completely dry, and make lovely B100, then extract all the meth and bubble for ages, and settle for a very long time, then there should be no drama's.  The settling (outdoors in the cold) being key to getting the waxy HMPEs out?

Right???

(I'll put an update on the MR2 TDI up when I can get the engine running   )

Thanks folks

That's about it. You need a clear pass which, as you say comes, from dry oil. Make sure there is no soap in it. It may be worth getting one of Nigel's soap testing kits?
Demething and settling get the soap to settle but, if well made, it should not need to settle for ages. A post production 5% water wash prior to draining the stage 2 glyc is a big help. Cold filter to 1mic before use.
Have you researched the vagcom? I also have vag tacho which should recover the skc ( secret key code) which you may need for the mobiliser.

[nigelb]

As a side issue Loz you may want to water wash in order to avoid HMPE's. Historically, those that suffer from them tend to demeth and settle, more so WBD.

[lozzzzzz]

Righty oh!  I'm not sure I fully understand the water wash though, you go to so much effort to get all the water out, only to put a load back in?   Does it separate more easily when its in B100 rather than WVO??  Does it need the long winded drying again after the water wash?

I've not looked into it yet Dick, I've asked some questions on some TDI forums as to why the engine might not start.  I need to ask some colleagues at work if I can use the work laptop for VAGCOM first as its the only one I've got. 

I'm making another batch tomorrow, but I'm hoping that I might be able to hook the VAG come up between bio making jobs.  Perhaps I might be better off borrowing it later i the week to look at it over the weekend, would that be alright??

[Dickjotec]

You are welcome to it over the WE. I also have some more spare oil if you are interested?

[1958steveflying]

There is a slim chance I might have reached a point where I can start thinking about, considering making some B100 for the GF's car, a Seat Ibiza FR, with a lovely PD130 engine. 

From what I've read on here and the Wiki page, for a PD engine, the Bio must be B100, and free from HMPEs.  My understanding is that if I get the oil completely dry, and make lovely B100, then extract all the meth and bubble for ages, and settle for a very long time, then there should be no drama's.  The settling (outdoors in the cold) being key to getting the waxy HMPEs out?

Right???

(I'll put an update on the MR2 TDI up when I can get the engine running   )

Thanks folks

If your Bio is well made and well settled you should not have any issues with the Vw Pd engine, ours did over 100K on my bio and was still going strong when sold.
  The mere nature of the fuel system with it's high pressures and higher than normal temperatures means it is far less prone to all the winter problems that most cars have.

[Chug]

Loz,

water washing bio can cause an emulsion (dependent on conversion and soap content, more monoglycerides and soap = more chance of an emulsion), so it has to be done very gently at first, usually a light mist wash or two before more vigorous washing is employed, or a water prewash post reaction and then more vigorous washing, or gentle bubble washing first then more vigorous bubbling and as you note, it will be wet bio and will then have to be dried.

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Water_washing

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Water_prewash