I hate ASM!

[Julian]

Very impressive!  I've never Glycerine washed, with my set up reheating the Glycerine would be a real pain, so I'm probably biased.

Now you're using reduced ASM with increased yields, have you considered two identical batches one with and one without Glycerine wash to see if it still has a beneficial effect?

[nigelb]

Reducing the catalyst is prime, but won't it make the glycerine wash progressively less effective to the point of not being worth the effort?

To be honest Julian the primary reason for me havin a glyc wash as part of the process is to have any water/moisture migrate to the glyc. Any transfer of chemicals the other way is a bonus.  Having bone dry oil is always worth the effort.

[nigelb]

Very impressive!  I've never Glycerine washed, with my set up reheating the Glycerine would be a real pain, so I'm probably biased.

Now you're using reduced ASM with increased yields, have you considered two identical batches one with and one without Glycerine wash to see if it still has a beneficial effect?

Reheating the glycerine for me is a real pain. I heat it up on the turk while the oil is warming up but the benefit is huge.

[Julian]

Reducing the catalyst is prime, but won't it make the glycerine wash progressively less effective to the point of not being worth the effort?

To be honest Julian the primary reason for me havin a glyc wash as part of the process is to have any water/moisture migrate to the glyc. Any transfer of chemicals the other way is a bonus.  Having bone dry oil is always worth the effort.

That's the bit I struggle to get my head round.  You can dry the oil conventionally and do a HPT or use a TT (Tosser Tester) to confirm it's dry.  After that is there any point in drying further?

Or you could partially dry and Glycerine wash to remove the balance, but you could never be sure just how dry it is.

Were there ever any tests done to quantify the drying effect of a Glycerine wash?

[thewormman]

use a TT (Tosser Tester) to confirm it's dry. 

Errr could you enlighten me on what that is? Not sure if I should ask 

[K.H]

You must excuse him, he suffers from tourettes!

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Water_in_fuel_-_test_kit

[Julian]

Confusingly this is another TT  a Tosser Tube ... http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Melting_stick

[RichardP]

Very impressive!  I've never Glycerine washed, with my set up reheating the Glycerine would be a real pain, so I'm probably biased.

Now you're using reduced ASM with increased yields, have you considered two identical batches one with and one without Glycerine wash to see if it still has a beneficial effect?

I can do that but won't be for some time, as I won't need to brew again for at least a month. Maybe next batch I'll just dry with venturi and not glyc wash. The oil is pretty consistent quality so it shouldn't matter too much of the time difference.

[Julian]

I think the result would be interesting.  Perhaps wait until you've reduced the catalyst as much as you can.

[thewormman]

You must excuse him, he suffers from tourettes!

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Water_in_fuel_-_test_kit

Cool thanks think I will make one of those wont annoy the wife with a hot pan test then 

[Julian]

You must excuse him, he suffers from tourettes!

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Water_in_fuel_-_test_kit

Cool thanks think I will make one of those wont annoy the wife with a hot pan test then 

I know what you mean about wives and HPTs!

A little while ago I bought a cheap solder pot to see if that would work.  It worked reasonably well, but the heating element is around the circumference and not on the bottom as I'd expected, and it's supposed to be adjustable down to 100°C, but I measured the temperature at 400°C!

It's in bits to see if it can be modified to run at a lower temperature ... I'm guessing adding a resister may do it but my electronics skills have reached their limit.

I'll get some photos up in a new post and see if any one an help with the modifications.

This the type of thing I bought ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-Stainless-Steel-Solder-Pot-Tin-Furnace-AC-220V-/300825156759?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item460a939c97



 

[thewormman]

I know what you mean about wives and HPTs!

A little while ago I bought a cheap solder pot to see if that would work.  It worked reasonably well, but the heating element is around the circumference and not on the bottom as I'd expected, and it's supposed to be adjustable down to 100°C, but I measured the temperature at 400°C!

It's in bits to see if it can be modified to run at a lower temperature ... I'm guessing adding a resister may do it but my electronics skills have reached their limit.

I'll get some photos up in a new post and see if any one an help with the modifications.

This the type of thing I bought ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-Stainless-Steel-Solder-Pot-Tin-Furnace-AC-220V-/300825156759?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item460a939c97

That looks interesting but I like something I can use that is maybe a bit more quantifiable.

The TT means I can have a scale to give an idea of amount of water content based on the reaction. I have done some research and Calcium carbide doesn't react with Acetone or methanol either so was looking at this as a way of testing the distilled acetone/methanol mix for water content, from there it may be possible to weigh the a/m mix and work out the volumes.

One thing I would add to the TT is a pressure relief valve, the section that said

Do not use on a liquid that is obviously wet,i have taken mine above 80psi and when it reaches its limit the gas escapes from the threaded cap BUT there is a danger it could explode at high pressures
HYDROGEN a highly explosive gas is made using this kit

scared me  The gas that is given off is actually Acetylene not Hydrogen. Calcium carbide is what they used to use for vintage car lamps.

Trouble is I cant really start making things till April as I have just had my bicep tendon re-attached. Hence why I am reading and thinking to much 

[K.H]

Just covering my arse with the exploding bit, there was a cycle valve fitted to release the pressure although I found something posher for Nathans, it works better with calcium hydride but as it is hard to source I left it out (that is what is used in the sandy brae kit)
It could really do with a small airtight metal container but I have yet to find one

[Carrington]

The equipment I use uses calcium hydride and Its expensive. I have been wondering about going over to the carbide when I run out which will be soon

[thewormman]

Just covering my arse with the exploding bit, there was a cycle valve fitted to release the pressure although I found something posher for Nathans, it works better with calcium hydride but as it is hard to source I left it out (that is what is used in the sandy brae kit)
It could really do with a small airtight metal container but I have yet to find one

Its a good design to make at home
Calcium carbide giving off acetylene rather than Calcium hydride giving off hydrogen might make it a bit safer? 
Do you think it would not be as accurate then?