Author Topic: Soaps/Acetone  (Read 72274 times)

Offline nathanrobo

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #15 on: December 27, 2012, 05:04:12 PM »
That's sooo cool!  Love new discoveries...

Any idea how much we'd need to add to 100 litres for example?

Offline 1958steveflying

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #16 on: December 27, 2012, 05:21:29 PM »
That's sooo cool!  Love new discoveries...

Any idea how much we'd need to add to 100 litres for example?

 I reckon I will try about 1% ie: 18ml in my 180Ltr batches.

 I think you may be right that it could work as an emulsion breaker too.

Offline 1958steveflying

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #17 on: December 27, 2012, 05:36:58 PM »
I've done some tests.

this is a 50/50 test, 250ml of washed bio and 250ml of hot (boiled) water



this is the same 50/50 with 4 drops of acetone added



I did a tatrated soap test on both samples,
the first sample had 76ppm of soaps,
the second 36ppm of soaps,
so a drop of 40ppm after adding the acetone, over 50% reduction.

So yes acetone dose help the soaps migrate into the water.

My feelings are it's due to the acetone lowering surface tension as the 50/50 split noteably quicker.

Now who's going to test this with the demeth and settle method.

Mark you don't fancy posting your findings on the other side do you ? (as you have the pictures and accurate soap figures)

Offline nathanrobo

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #18 on: December 27, 2012, 08:24:39 PM »
After adding the Acetone, water washing and then drying does the bio still look clear?  Do you still need to add acetone prior to using it (i.e. does the acetone go with the water layer or stay with the bio)?

Offline 1958steveflying

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #19 on: December 27, 2012, 08:40:16 PM »
After adding the Acetone, water washing and then drying does the bio still look clear?  Do you still need to add acetone prior to using it (i.e. does the acetone go with the water layer or stay with the bio)?

The sample we did the other day has sat on the side here since, the bio on top of the water is now crystal clear. I am guessing here but I think the Acetone left in the Bio will vaporise off during drying.

Offline Head Womble

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #20 on: December 27, 2012, 09:53:27 PM »
I started a batch today and will be washing it over the next two days,
so on the final wash I'll put some acetone in and see how it goes when scaled up,
it should be easy enough to count how many drips make 1ml and calculate the dosage for a full batch.

What are your thoughts on adding it to the second wash as well (I normally do three washes),
I doubt there's any benefit from using it on the first wash with the acid.
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Offline Head Womble

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #21 on: December 27, 2012, 09:54:32 PM »
That's sooo cool!  Love new discoveries...

Any idea how much we'd need to add to 100 litres for example?

 I reckon I will try about 1% ie: 18ml in my 180Ltr batches.

 I think you may be right that it could work as an emulsion breaker too.

Steve 1% is 180ml. 18ml is 0.1%.

Acetone as an emulsion breaker, now that's an interesting idea.
« Last Edit: December 27, 2012, 09:56:57 PM by mark »
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Offline etz250

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #22 on: December 27, 2012, 09:55:01 PM »
Good result that mark,not tried the acid wash yet .

Cheers

Offline Head Womble

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2012, 10:05:01 PM »
It's just accrued to me that some have noticed deposits dropping out after adding petrol to there bio,
so maybe there is something in the theory that petrol will help soaps settling after demeth,
if this is what's happening then it also suggests that acetone will be good for demeth and settle.
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Offline Head Womble

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #24 on: December 27, 2012, 10:08:11 PM »

Mark you don't fancy posting your findings on the other side do you ? (as you have the pictures and accurate soap figures)

I will once I've done more tests and others have had similar results.
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Offline nigelb

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #25 on: December 27, 2012, 10:21:31 PM »
I don't want to rain on your parade guys but there really is no need to add unnecessary chemicals to your bio to lower the soap ppm's further. As a final wash, try a hot pump wash. The residual heat left behind after this process is then used to dry the bio.

Nige

Offline Tony

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #26 on: December 27, 2012, 10:33:57 PM »
I was going to comment on cost of heating vs cost of acetone but I guess if you're water washing you have to heat it anyway to dry it.

So hot water is better at soap extraction than cold water?

What about both for an amazingly clear result?

Offline Head Womble

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #27 on: December 27, 2012, 10:37:05 PM »
Nige, personally I like to do cold washing, I think it helps remove HMPE's.

Also we may be able to reduce the amount of washes required,
unless we test these things we'll never know.
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Offline nigelb

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #28 on: December 27, 2012, 10:37:43 PM »
When you're down to about 10ppm is it really worth adding another step to the process?

Offline Head Womble

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Re: Soaps/Acetone
« Reply #29 on: December 27, 2012, 10:40:22 PM »
When you're down to about 10ppm is it really worth adding another step to the process?

But if we can get down to 10ppm with less steps (washes) then surely it's worth doing.
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