Centrifuge Wiki page - critique

[Julian]

There you go ... http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Centrifuges

I ran the text through a smell checker and added a few °C's and µ's.

I'll try and get photos of my bowl centrifuge uploaded tomorrow.

[nathanrobo]

OK, No problem, I'll do that shortly.  Hopefully Tony will pick up on the logging on issue, he'll sort in in the blink of an eye, but in the mean time have you tried logging out of the forum and then logging onto the wiki.  Or possibly try clearing your cookies ... pure guess work on my part!

That page you link to isn't Dieselcraft it's a site run/owned by RickDaTech in the USA.

Great!  Ref the link, that's my limited attention span.  Can we use it?

[Tony]

Fixed, Nathanrobo wasn't in the editors group, is now.

[nathanrobo]

Thanks Tony.  Managed to log in now. 

Before submitting images I'd like to get views on them.  There will of course be no commercial branding, but I'd like to make sure that the images convey what I think they do.

Also is it possible to put a photobucket video link to a fuge being operated?

[Tony]

I'm not sure the video embedding system allows photobucket videos.  Youtube is supported, however - would it be possible to upload it to youtube as well?

[Julian]

Fixed, Nathanrobo wasn't in the editors group, is now.

Glad someone knows what they are doing ... why didn't I think of that?

Thread moved to the wiki discussion forum.

[nathanrobo]

I'm not sure the video embedding system allows photobucket videos.  Youtube is supported, however - would it be possible to upload it to youtube as well?

Can do youtube (well kids can). 

[Julian]

Really good.  One or two typos, and Alt+0181 will give you the micron symbol.

Couple of other things ... we try and avoid referring to commercial outfits, unless absolutely germane to the page.  Oilybits could become "a well known on line bio equipment supplier".  If the Dieselcraft info is particularly good we can ask them if we can reproduce the content and credit it to them ... but no link I'm afraid.

Is it imperative for WVO users to filter to submicron?  Vehicle filters only work down to circa 3µ I believe.

Best course of action would be to throw it up on the wiki and edit it there.  If you need any schematics for the page, let me know,  I can upload photos of a bowl centrifuge if that will help.

Thanks Julian,

No probs about the commercial bit, it was in there by mistake (copied and pasted from a post on VOD I think).  We can take all mention out - but if folk feel that the content is worth reproducing, we might be more successful getting permission if somebody other than me asks them.

Ref the WVO, I don't really have any personal experience, just opinions (so probably not too useful).

Ref pics it would be good to get pics of DIY motor driven stuff, we can get a pic for the WVO designs products, I can help with some stuff.

Chug has just posted this on the VOD ...
============
find out what rating your vehicles fuel filter is and filter to that.
I phoned around the major manufacturers a few years back and most are around 8-10 micron but some go to 5 micron, and some high performance vehicles go to 2 or even 1 micron.
============

So it's probably not necessary to go submicron.  Can any of the veg chaps confirm Keef, RM?

[Julian]

Here you go, photos of DIY Bowl centrifuge.  They've all been uploaded to the wiki, so just use one of the following formats to stick them on the page ...

[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg]]

OR

[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Title text here]]














Let me know if you need any more.

[nathanrobo]

That's really cool!  Is there any information about the connection between the motor's shaft and the bowl?

[Julian]

Yep ... hole in bowl into which the motor shaft goes, secured by a grub screw at rightangles ... why?

[Rotary-Motion]

So it's probably not necessary to go submicron.  Can any of the veg chaps confirm Keef, RM?

as to microns of cars my understanding of it all is whats been written 10 down to 1m

i filter down to 1m but its not really 1m as (i cant remeber terminology) but 1m is only a loose form of micron, i think people sub micron due to trying to actually get 1m finished article. meaning people use 0.5m so if any error factor on actual micron 0.5 really ends up more precisely 1m more definately...

moving on to car filters mine are gone! i use sausage filter 40m? at a guess, this lets 100% thick veg oil through and stops rubbish and no need to change it ever, well not yet anyhooes done 1000's of miles so have another 4x vehicles and still going...

for veg oil 10 to 1m is too small for thick veg, how could you expect veg to go through something as thin as diesel can go through...

[nathanrobo]

Yep ... hole in bowl into which the motor shaft goes, secured by a grub screw at rightangles ... why?

Coz a couple of years back I was looking at the raw power fuge talked to the guy at WVO designs.  There was a specific fitting that they used with the shaft for safety, I'll try to dig it up on my other computer.  I'm just acutely aware that if we're going to show people how to make a diy unit, we need to make sure that they understand how to do it safely. 

[nathanrobo]

So it's probably not necessary to go submicron.  Can any of the veg chaps confirm Keef, RM?

as to microns of cars my understanding of it all is whats been written 10 down to 1m

i filter down to 1m but its not really 1m as (i cant remeber terminology) but 1m is only a loose form of micron, i think people sub micron due to trying to actually get 1m finished article. meaning people use 0.5m so if any error factor on actual micron 0.5 really ends up more precisely 1m more definately...

moving on to car filters mine are gone! i use sausage filter 40m? at a guess, this lets 100% thick veg oil through and stops rubbish and no need to change it ever, well not yet anyhooes done 1000's of miles so have another 4x vehicles and still going...

for veg oil 10 to 1m is too small for thick veg, how could you expect veg to go through something as thin as diesel can go through...

I never used veg, but I do know a little about filtration.  The issue is that sediment filters do not filter to an absolute value, as a lot of things in our process they are designed for water.  Their efficiency is often around the 60% mark, meaning that a 10mu filter will stop 60% of  solids up to that value. These filters can also become punched through... this is the point at which pressure builds up behind the particles and eventually punches them through the filter, the differential pressure gauge spikes for a time and then drops down as the particles clear.
if the user is not watching the gauge at this time, he may not be aware that the filter has gone beyond the critical point of change (I believe that I might have experienced this polishing bio a few years back).
 
There are some filters that are designed for oil and have an absolute value (for example Filtertechnik hippo pots).  The other issue that we have is contaminant that is not solid but that can conglomerate and block stuff (technical term).

[Julian]

Yep ... hole in bowl into which the motor shaft goes, secured by a grub screw at rightangles ... why?

Coz a couple of years back I was looking at the raw power fuge talked to the guy at WVO designs.  There was a specific fitting that they used with the shaft for safety, I'll try to dig it up on my other computer.  I'm just acutely aware that if we're going to show people how to make a diy unit, we need to make sure that they understand how to do it safely.

Certainly not my intention to show people how to make a copy of it.  From a safety point of view attachment to the shaft is s minor issue compaired with the other issues in my method of construction!  The intention was to use the photos to illustrate what a bowl centrifuge was like and what it can do.