Filter replacement

[PD1]

Hi all , whilst drying my bio diesel today my pump started to struggle , I removed the filter and it was pretty nasty ! I’m going to get a replacement but remember reading somewhere that a string wound filter is better , I think my current filter was 5 microns . It’s one of those blue filters with a internal canister
Thanks in advance
Paul

[PD1]

Here’s a pic of it

[Julian]

Seems like the wrong time to be filtering to me.

I run the whole process without using a filter instead relying on settling in a couple of stages.  I only filter as it's pumped into the car ... or I did until the filter housing disintegrated. 

[nigelb]

TBH....it matters not whether your filter is string wound or fibrous....if there is enough material to catch it will clog up. It may be prudent to improve your production technique before looking at filtering issues.

[PD1]

Thanks for the replies, the filter is on a golden ray processor, which I recently purchased, I must admit I didn’t bother to check it when I got it ! So was probably fairly blocked up already, I’ve only made 2 batches in it so far , I previously made bio in another processor, I like the  golden ray as it makes the process a lot easier, I do let the bio settle between stages , so not sure how I can improve my technique? The drying process as per Gokden ray is to run it via the filter and then on through the spray bar , I do a two stage no titration process, and water wash , Nigel what can I do to improve my production technique, thanks

[nigelb]

Ah...you should have changed the filter when you took possesion of the unit. As said it'll make little to no difference what type of filter you use. Having said that..if your drying process using hot bio goes through a spray bar via the filter using a string filter may be more prudent. The melt blown filters may not be sturdy enough for hot fuel to be passing through them

Also, I can't see the advantage of filtering and drying at the same time. If you can bypass the filter the flow rate to the spray bar will improve and consequently the drying time should reduce. You can then filter your fuel on a single pass into your storage facility.

[neisel]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Jumbo-10-Micron-Big-Blue-Wound-Sediment-Filter-/353255420263?hash=item523fa9f167

I wouldn't try to reinvent the wheel here, just use the processor as it was designed to be used.

It says it's 5 micron in the description further down the listing. IIRC from calling them a couple of years ago when I bought a couple they confirmed 5mics, but check yourself. These don't melt & mine each last two years. TBH after 2 years they still look pretty reasonable (& virginal compared to your dirty filter) but I figure I can spring for a fiver a year for filters.

Make sure the filter is centred in the blue housing. I use chicken wire around the outside of the filter to make sure it's in the right position. From your photo of the dirty filter you can see the plastic tube creating the channel through the centre of the filter was not located correctly & when it got hot it collapsed, restricting the flow, reducing the efficiency of the filter & lengthening the time required to dry.

[PD1]

Thanks Nigel and Neil , Nigel that’s a fair point about not filtering and drying at the same time , kind of makes sense really and I always run my BD through a diesel fuel filter when filling up my fuel tank . Neil I assume that’s the way you’ve always done it as per the Golden Ray instructions although amended as you’ve found better ways .
I’ll order a new filter anyway and may experiment on drying times with and without , would the filter remove any water ?

Thanks again
Paul

[dgs]

Thanks Nigel and Neil , Nigel that’s a fair point about not filtering and drying at the same time , kind of makes sense really and I always run my BD through a diesel fuel filter when filling up my fuel tank . Neil I assume that’s the way you’ve always done it as per the Golden Ray instructions although amended as you’ve found better ways .
I’ll order a new filter anyway and may experiment on drying times with and without , would the filter remove any water ?

Thanks again
Paul

No, it won't remove water. Preferably for drying you need to bubble air from the processor bottom that has been dried by passing through silica gel. I've been experimenting with drying at lower temps for a while now and have got the drying temp down to 35degs which saves a fair bit of elec. I know Nige and myself don't quite agree on this point but ditch the spraybar, they don.t work very well. Ask me how I know after testing dozens of brewers samples for water content.

[nigelb]

Dave...I dont have an opinion re spray bars. Never used one. I'm bubble washer and a dryer using an inverted uri.

[PD1]

Thanks again for the replies , I have been trying to bubble dry too as a final extra stage , I empty some of the BD into a 25litre drum and drop in a aquarium hose with some pin holes (I have got a wooden air “stone” but not tried it yet) , I’ve run this for a few hours but don’t know whether it’s removed any water , and I’m guessing from what your saying with You doing it at 35 degrees that It’s probably not working , as I do it at ambient  temperature!
To be fair to the golden ray it does seem to dry the BD a certain amount as it’s like orange juice at the start and looks more like BD after , However I’m sure that it probably still has a high water content. My last batch doesn’t seem that clear but it could be down to the cold at the moment .
DGS I’m interested more in your bubble drying set up and how you pump through silica , I’ve just been pumping air directly in , no doubt full of moisture ! , would I need silica to seal the outlet of the drum to stop damp air entering.
Interested to find out more
Paul

[dgs]

Thanks again for the replies , I have been trying to bubble dry too as a final extra stage , I empty some of the BD into a 25litre drum and drop in a aquarium hose with some pin holes (I have got a wooden air “stone” but not tried it yet) , I’ve run this for a few hours but don’t know whether it’s removed any water , and I’m guessing from what your saying with You doing it at 35 degrees that It’s probably not working , as I do it at ambient  temperature!
To be fair to the golden ray it does seem to dry the BD a certain amount as it’s like orange juice at the start and looks more like BD after , However I’m sure that it probably still has a high water content. My last batch doesn’t seem that clear but it could be down to the cold at the moment .
DGS I’m interested more in your bubble drying set up and how you pump through silica , I’ve just been pumping air directly in , no doubt full of moisture ! , would I need silica to seal the outlet of the drum to stop damp air entering.
Interested to find out more
Paul

Your drying method won't be working. I've tried doing it at ambient even with dry air and it doesn't work. With your air not being dry you are at the mercy of the relative humidity so on a damp day its easy to increase the water, not reduce it.

I will try to post a drawing of the turbo dryer. Just to say when I was doing the reduced temp drying tests I got readings of just below 200ppm after the 5 hours drying at 35degs.

https://imakebiodiesel.webs.com/apps/photos/album?albumid=14307058

[nigelb]

Using a diffuser is as good a way of drying as any Ive tried. Must be done when the bio is hot though.

[PD1]

Thanks again for the replies , it’s interesting to hear the different views , The friend that got me into Bio making had a very simple method , He would not titrate he added the same amount of methoxide each time and only did one stage, his water wash was to put the BD into a 10 litre drum add some water and gently rotate the drum 50 times , he would then allow to settle then siphon of the BD via a filter straight into his car , he did this for years on the same car covering over 100k with no problems and is still running th e same car , injection pump etc now , it does make you think what is necessary, I started off doing the same process , but then started to titrate , then I read about the two stage no titration method which I now use, and now trying to fine tune the drying process. I’ve got a bit hooked on making bio and strive to make the best I can , it is becoming more time consuming than I thought it would be though , but I do enjoy it. As I strive for better bio , I’m noticing that the cost is creeping up eg the amount electricity I’m using etc not that I’ve worked out how much it’s costing a litre to make .

[nigelb]

Different vehicles can tollerate different standards of fuel. I dare say that some cars/vans with psa engines can get away with really poor quality bio diesel as they are primearably veg running engines. Some vw engines run better and mpg returns are greatly increased if the bio is 10% unreacted. Whereas some vehicles require top grade fuel.
The bottom line is always a balance between time, effort and cost.

You need to strike a balance and then maintain an average.