Author Topic: Frankinpump problem (Read 9101 times)

Julian · « **on:** April 03, 2015, 05:25:06 PM »

Having put a nice new fan on Frankinpump (TAM 120) I thought I'd change the capacitor as I noticed it's been charred for some time.

Knowing it was on the way out, I bought the same capacitor as KH when he had his blow. Having fitted it the pump now runs backwards.

Keith ... did your replacement capacitor create the same problem and if so how did you cure it.

If it didn't, has anyone any idea how I can reverse the rotation. In my simplistic and optimistic way I've tried changing the leads on the capacitor round with no effect.

The wiring isas follows ... live goes to a blue wire that disappears into the windings. Neutral is connected to the same side of capacitor as a yellow wire which disappears into the windings and a red wire to the other side of the capacitor which also goes to the windings.

I'll have a Google , but I'd really appreciate any assistance from someone who knows what they are doing!.

K.H · « **Reply #1 on:** April 03, 2015, 05:27:59 PM »

Nope, not running backwards, did i post pics when mine blew?

Julian · « **Reply #2 on:** April 03, 2015, 05:51:37 PM »

Found your post, but no photos, only one of mine showing the capacitor rating.

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,2244.0.html

In that thread you mad a comment near the end " live wasn't going to the cap" my live doesn't go to the capacitor, it goes to the windings as stated above.

K.H · « **Reply #3 on:** April 03, 2015, 05:57:16 PM »

That was when i was just testing the wires, before i took the black connection box to bits, then i saw how it should be and replaced it with a choc block thingy, i think you need Oakwood tv?

Julian · « **Reply #4 on:** April 03, 2015, 06:12:40 PM »

Think you're right, hope he'll be along soon.

The blue to the motor windings did fall off whilst I was fighting to remove the burnt capacitor, but there was only one spare connector from which it could come and that's connected to the live in coming (that's assuming the person I bought the pump from wired it correctly in the first place).

photoman290 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 03, 2015, 06:17:48 PM »

the connection diagram is half way down this page with the terminal block numbers.

http://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/water_pumps/tam_cpe.pdf

Julian · « **Reply #6 on:** April 03, 2015, 06:27:53 PM »

Quote from: photoman290 on April 03, 2015, 06:17:48 PM

the connection diagram is half way down this page with the terminal block numbers.

http://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/manuals/water_pumps/tam_cpe.pdf

That was the first thing I checked but unfortunately it's the TAM 120, bottom left diagram which is less that helpful!

Been looking at this page ... http://www.carymart.com/blog/tag/ac-motor-remote-controller/ which seem a bit more informative, but I cant grantee it's the same layout as the TAM 120. Think I'll stick a meter on the wires emanating direct from the motor and see if that gives any clues.

Julian · « **Reply #7 on:** April 03, 2015, 06:45:12 PM »

Interesting ... as I bought the pump and as it's been running for over a year, the live and neutral are reversed compared to the unhelpful diagram in the Clarke manual.

Think I'd better check how the plug's wired.

K.H · « **Reply #8 on:** April 03, 2015, 07:10:52 PM »

Things i do eh?

Julian · « **Reply #9 on:** April 03, 2015, 07:48:14 PM »

Top man, thank you.

That confirms my pump was wired wrong when I bought it. What you have there was the way I was considering rewiring it.

I'll copy that and report back.

Where did the right angled connectors come from, I've only got straight ones.

K.H · « **Reply #10 on:** April 03, 2015, 07:50:42 PM »

I had to buy some (ebay) because of the lack of room, i have some spare now if you need them?

Julian · « **Reply #11 on:** April 03, 2015, 08:44:30 PM »

All sorted, no bangs, no sparks, running the right way pumping oil with no leaks almost a first for me ... thanks for your help, Keith.

As the terminal blocks seem to have a habit of melting along with the capacitors, I'll do a little diagram and stick it on the wiki for others with the same problem.

For the bent connectors I bent a straight one and whacked some heat shrink round it.

oakwoodtv · « **Reply #12 on:** April 03, 2015, 11:14:08 PM »

Its good to see you have sorted it only just got on the site the good lady has been complaining
that I spend to much time in the shed so have spent the night watching mindless drivel on
the TV.

Julian · « **Reply #13 on:** April 04, 2015, 12:48:15 AM »

Quote from: oakwoodtv on April 03, 2015, 11:14:08 PM

Its good to see you have sorted it only just got on the site the good lady has been complaining
that I spend to much time in the shed so have spent the night watching mindless drivel on
the TV.

Now you're reading mindless drivel on here.

As an obvious motor guru, is this likely to be the arrangement for the motor above ...

the resistance readings I got earlier today were ..

Blue to yellow 3.9 Ω
Blue to red 2.2 Ω
Red to yellow 5.5 Ω

If you can confirm I'll replicate the diagram for the wiki.

The resistance readings may be a little dodgy as the connectors had charred plastic over them, but if the diagram above is correct are the wingdings the same or is one start and one run?

I still cant work out why the rotation was correct with live and neutral round the wrong way, but when I changed the capacitor, I had to swap the connections.

oakwoodtv · « **Reply #14 on:** April 04, 2015, 09:33:03 AM »

That is correct as a rough guide the main winding is the lower ohms reading
and the capacitor winding is the higher ohms reading.

The yellow wire is normally the capacitor winding.

If the yellow and red wire are swapped over the rotation will be reversed
its not designed to run this way so possibly it will sound rough.

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