Bosch VE pump shaft seal leak.

[julianf]

if it had no lips anywhere to keep it lined up, then it probably just moved over the edge of the teeth and it got abraded on the edge which caused the belt to fray and weaken and eventually go

Its cut a very neat (and alarmingly deep) groove into the timing case cover too.
And straight through the crank dust seal, which i did not order.

In Devon, you can just go into a parts place, whilst here, it seems, noone keeps stock for anything later then 5yrs old : (

[1958steveflying]

As has been noted on the other forum this failure is due to no lipped pulley being fitted and excessive edge wear resulting in belt failure, early kits having a lipped tensioner and later ones a lipped crank pulley. It's looking like when you last changed the cambelt assuming that it did not have any edge wear (if it had it would have raised questions as to why) that you removed a lipped tensioner and replaced it with a plain one tensioner and not the required lipped crank pulley to go with it. Easy mistake to make if not known about the modification.

[Tony]

Hmm.  When I did the Largo I removed a lipped idler pulley and replaced with a smooth one.  But I think they are proven on the Primera version of the engine and not had any issues (in my general paranoia I do periodically check timing belt condition!)

[julianf]

Still not moving.  Anyone want to make any comments?  Update on the landyzone thread....

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/300tdi-cam-belt-failed-too-soon-why-274239-2.html

[1958steveflying]

Were all the clearances wide when you came to reset them ? or tight and had to slacken them ?

[julianf]

You know it was only a few hours ago,  but i think most were tight.

One of them i had to loosen off for another (unrelated) reason, so what the original setting of that was, i dont now, and i think one more was loose by a bit.

Most required something like a quarter turn to loosen, but one, IIRC, needed a couple of turns tightened - but i cant be sure that i had not adjusted this previously, incorrectly.

Im guessing youre looking for valve damage?  I reckon 6 of the 8 were all about the same, 1 is 100% unknown as id messed with it, and the last one could have been me or could have needed a couple of turns.

I dont know how significant a couple of turns is anyhow?

[1958steveflying]

Yes bud if they all needed significant tightening I would be thinking valve damage (not closed completely) as it did happen at a cruising speed and take out all push rods, but hopefully it isn't that. I suppose the only certain way to check is a compression test. Sorry I cant be of any help on timing etc.

[julianf]

If it was just one valve done, wouldnt it start and run (all be it badly) on the remaining three cylinders?

[Chug]

the reason for turning engine over a couple of times and then rechecking all the timing marks/pins line up correctly is because it is easy to fit a new loose belt a tooth out, once tensioned and turned over it should all line up, if not it needs re setting.

I would expect it to run with at least one or two bent valves, but not run very well or very quiet, if they were badly bent I would have thought you would have noticed when turning over the engine when doing the tappets.

Other than that have you removed any fuel pipes for access and got air in?

[julianf]

Nope, not touched the fuel system.  But its like that - trying to start on veg with no petrol (as per previous experience).

[1958steveflying]

If it was just one valve done, wouldnt it start and run (all be it badly) on the remaining three cylinders?

Yes it would I guess, another reason for turning over the engine twice and reinserting alignment tools is firstly to make sure nothing is wrong as you turn it by hand like valves touching as an instance also to double check all is spot on with regard to tension before cranking.

[1958steveflying]

Frustrating though I do feel for you away from home working on it.

[julianf]

The Beast...  IT LIVES!


Took off the timing belt again, re-did it all.  Loosened* off the bolts around the IP.  Turned the key - started fine, with no bother.

One bothersome thing, which i dont know is normal -

Took out the keys.  Continued to run until i put it in 5th and stalled it.
Started again about 10 mins later.  Again ran on after the keys were out, but only for a few seconds, and then stopped itself.

(we're talking normal idle rpm, not out of control)

Need to put lots back together before running it up to temp.

(im going to copy this to the landyzone thread)

[julianf]

I forgot to say... When i said "Loosened" above, what i really mean is -

Try to undo through access hatch.  One bolt rounds head.
Try different sockets to no avail.
Take off timing cover.
Try from the side - still no good.
Walk down the road to borrow grips and get some bolts.  Find correct die to clean up thread on bolts.  2nd time lucky.
Walk home
Find grips wont fit
Find bolts have too large a skirt.
Walk to get socket to hammer on.
Turn down bolt skirt on lathe.
Walk home.
Hammer on socket, and undo bolt.
Replace with new (old - cleaned and turned) bolts.


This is what my week has been like so far.

[1958steveflying]

Great news well done, the running on issue will be a sticky shut off solenoid, most likely gummed up if running veg and would normally resolve once hot.