Multi tube condenser ideas

[Tony]

That is very cool.  With the seals I was thinking more of biodiesel interaction than methanol.  Though in hindsight I think what I've seen turn to slush was natural rubber and EPDM just swelled.

Certainly a clampable fitment would allow multi-tube drywash use

I'm imagining a rack of horizontal tubes resting on hooks, or vertical array (possibly better) where you just un-plumb the one you want to replace, remove the bolts from the fitting at one end and expel the tube of spent drywash material (perhaps using compressed air?).

The ideal fitting might have some kind of ABS mesh integrated into the end to retain the drywash material?  And perhaps a 90 degree in the end to make piping to the next tube in the array easy.

You could be onto a saleable eBay product idea with that

My only concern would be whether any of the fittings could pop off under pressure.  But it works for water for pushfit - it's just the clamp to the 40mm tube that might be an issue.

[Manfred]

In Koi ponds most people use a small self tapper through the outer connector into the 40 mm pipe when after the pump, stops it blowing off and no leaks either.

  I didn't fully understand what you were describing earlier, but that connectors looking pretty good.

[Tony]

Interesting.  I don't suppose you've got a link to a thread or photo that shows this arrangement?

[Manfred]

Not got mine anymore but will try and get a photo.

[Julian]

I did think of a 90° bend at the top, but I suspect the print will be stronger and more accurate if it's concentric.

How important is it that the bio flows up the tower?  I had thoughts of a double cap arrangement with an integral connection, where it goes up one tube and down the next.  You'd only need two push fit connectors that way, one at each end of the array.

Can anyone come up with an idea for a mesh?  Shower mixers usually have filters molded into a rubber washer, but they are only 15mm diameter.

[julianf]

Im not 100% sure i follow what your aim is, but, when ive considered this type of thing before, i planned on using these -



which could be drilled in the center (theyre 110mm soil pipe) for a standard tank connector, with appropriate flat washer, and then the screw thread on the 110mm could be sealed with a whole load of PTFE tape (2 rolls if need be - only 50p or somthing)


My inline immersion heater has no flat washer in it, as it was always problematic.  Mid batch once, it failed fully, and i sealed it with the only thing i had (ptfe tape) and its never leaked a drop since.

[Tony]

With the 110mm pipe it's better to have solvent weld end caps that don't reduce the opening size at the ends, so it's easier to fill and empty.

On Julian's end fitting idea, I'd have thought that the integrated twin-connector between tubes would run the risk of excess mechanical loading given the leverage of the pipes during changeover operations.

[Julian]

110mm pipe is what I'm using at the moment, it leaks like a sieve and is rather unwieldy.

A bank of tubes could slot into a frame (plywood with a lump of 4x2 screwed top and bottom) to stop the ends popping off.  You could make a drip tray at the bottom to catch any spills.

Good point about the leaverage on the fittings, Tony ... perhaps better to connect with a flexible hose, but experience shows they leak too.

[Manfred]

I couldn't find a photo but hope this helps.
 When the 40mm pipe is pushed into position drill and screw a self tapper where the arrow is. I used this arrangement on my 1000gph return through a uv filter so that I could remove it if necessary.

[julianf]

I feel as if im missing somthing here!

I understand that some of you have used 110mm soil pipe before, and that it has leaked - hence looking for a solution.

Im not understanding where its leaking from though?

I mentioned using screw top solvent weld fittings for the ends, with ptfe on the threads, and tank connectors.  Im pretty sure these would not leak, so im thinking the problems are the (in the case of a condenser) the coolant pipes?

Cant these just be done in the same way?  With solvent weld tees, solvent weld blanking caps, and then tank connectors, with appropriate flat washers?


I know waste pipe push fit fittings fall apart with bio, so these cant be used, but im sure its all possible with ptfe, solvent weld, and flat washers?

So i feel im missing somthing!

[Julian]

No I don't think so.  I started out suggesting ideas I'd had to make a multitube condenser using the printer.

Tony suggested making bits for a dry wash tower as a it ran at ambient temperature and thought multiple tubes of a smaller diameter might be easier to replenish ... hence the suggestion of waste pipe.

Someone along the line came up with using 15mm push fit fittings (I think it was me) and that seemed like a fun thing to make on the printer, so I had a bash and combined it with Tony's waste pipe idea ... see photos.

The thought then was that push fit wastes would pop out under pressure so I thought of a clamp arrangement and Manfred suggested a screw through the fitting.

You suggested using solventweld which would work, but would need a mesh fitted to retain the media.

I'm still thinking about designs for a multitube condenser.

[julianf]

Two (three) ideas for mesh (which could even be combined)

a) you get fittings for soil and vent to go at the top of the vent stack to stop birds etc. falling down.  i suspect theyre only availible in female fitting, but one could possibly be slitted and compressed.

b) in aquarium canister filters, a block of foam would often be at the base to stop the media falling through.  it wasnt normal, upolstery style foam, but a rougher, tougher foam.  may or may not be bio stable.

c) also in aquariums you had this wadding stuff that you could use for the same, or similar.  did not compact when it got wet like other wadding would.

[Julian]

I used old felt carpet underlay in my 110mm dia tower.  Seems to work OK.

I think I used a sheet of plastic with holes and some studding legs to hold it in place.

[Julian]

Back to the condenser ... I've spent last night drawing the condenser hot end.  Thought I'd try printing it this morning but the file was all screwed up when transfered to the print program.  So I've spent a large part of today trying to sort it out.  I think I've got it sorted but it's too late to print now ... estimated print time over 9 hrs!!

Anyway, this is the design so far ...








The plan is, once the tubes are in place and protruding through the tube plate, fire cement or anything more suitable will be pored into the recess and a tin can top section settled in the cement.  A big bead of silicone can then be run between the printed adapter and the can, well, that's the theory!

[Jamesrl]

The only disappointing thing about the free Sketchup is the way it draws circles or should I say polygons.

Surely the integrity of an O ring depends on a precise fit.