I know Endorphin has an M51 engine is his car and a few others have them on the forum. Myself and E3MSB have RangeRovers with them in.
I have been meaning to swap mine for some time since it was producing more and more fuel position sensor fault codes. I had a replacement pump for free from a good friend and had the local diesel place fit a new shaft seal for £35. It wasn't leaking but I though best to have a new seal before fitting it.
Over the last few weeks I have lost another two glow plugs so was down to only three which made it a real pain to start.
So, today I broke out the tools and decided to do both jobs at the same time.
Here is a bit of a guide, with photos.
Engine bay looking quite crowded...
Air pipes and trunking off.
Inlet manifold off gives a lot more room - there are twelve 12mm nuts on studs, some awkward to reach. Also a couple of pipes and cables connected underneath it
Fuel pipes, injector pipes (remember the order), pump electrical connectors and the serpentine belt tensioner need to come off
leaving the pump easy to access
The drive shaft nut of the pump (18mm on the RangeRover) needs to be undone and the special pulley locking tool screwed on. Then the tensioner holder screws back in over the top of the special tool, meaning the sprocket and timing chain will stay in place when the pump is removed. The bolt from the tool is seen poking out of the tensioner holder in this photo
The cooling fan and shroud need to come off to access the tensioner properly
With the tool solidly in place, the pump securing bolts can be undone and out come the pump. It is keyed on to the shaft so no alignment problems unlike the Discovery Tdi engines.
Here you can see the sprocket and timing chain held solidly in place, viewed from the pump side of the sprocket. The tool is screwed to the other side of the sprocket
This is the replacement pump in place, with the tool clearly visible after removing the tensioner holder, just prior to unscrewing the tool itself
From here, the pump needs timing using the forum timing kit and instructions easily found online. I set mine to 1mm of lift at TDC which is just a little more than the recommended 0.9mm in the RangeRover workshop manual but should be fine for biodiesel.
Once timed and all bolts tensioned, refitting is the reverse of removal as the haynes manuals say.
After a bit of bleeding and some cranking to fill all the injector lines, she fired up and ran happily.
A reasonably straightforward job on the whole which was quite pleasing.
