Fuel sedimenters - wothwhile?

[julianf]

I have one on the discovery - i opened it up last week, and, almost disappointingly, there was nothing much in there.

As im thinking of replacing the fuel lines, im wondering if i should bother keeping it or not (not keeping it would simplify the job)


I know Julian and Mark have them, but im wondering if anyone has intentionally fitted one / removed one for any reason?


I get the impression theyre more useful for shifty pump fuel than they are for home-brew.

[Julian]

I'd keep it ... it's there for a reason.

Why on earth are you replacing the fuel lines?

If they are original equipment they should be fine ... good size, bio proof and tight fitting terminations.  If they are showing signs of blockage, they'll clean easily ... very smooth walls and all bends are nice and slow.

If you are intent on altering the fuel system, I recon the best thing you could fit would be a heated filter.

[julianf]

I also opened the tank, when i opened the sedimenter.


You may, or may not, remember - some months back i did the tank, and found a layer of glyc in the bottom, that was slowing fuel pickup?
Anyhow, i was looking again, hoping for another performance boost, like last time.  (Un)fortunatly, there was no scum in the tank...

I put the hoses back on the tank, started the motor, idled, stalled.
Checked for leaks, etc.etc.  Went to check (on interweb) that id connected the pipes the right way around.  Puzzled.

Eventually took off the return at the ip, blew down it, and checked for spatter at the far end.


For some reason, on my motor, the feed (from the tank to the engine) is the narrow one, and the return is the fat one.  According to common sense, and the interweb, that is not as it should be.

I was going to replace the feed from the tank with some of this stuff -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140707070015?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=440046298269&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

in one long stretch, without the sedimenter.

[Manfred]

I didn't know what  one was so looked it up. A chap on YouTube said its job is to separate water from the fuel and to drain regular in summer if you run on 1/4 tanks causing condensation or if you got poor fuel. Think it's best left unless you don't get either or if you've never drained it" then the water would be flushed through with the fuel. Wonder how many folk know to drain them periodically.

[Julian]

Before I started water washing (on older Disco) I used to find it perhaps half filled with what I assumed was glycerin, roughly once a year.

Must admit that I haven't checked so regularly since I started water washing ... in fact come to think of it I don't think I've have the sedimenter off this current Disco.

I'll add it to the list!

[julianf]

Can you confirm (or otherwise) that its the fat fuel line that goes to the sedimenter on yours, and not the other way arround (as on mine)

I dont really get it - i cant understand why mine would be reversed - it all looks original, just not the way around that you would expect.

[Tony]

I was going to replace the feed from the tank with some of this stuff -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140707070015?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=440046298269&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

in one long stretch, without the sedimenter.

Oooh yes that's good stuff.

The only caveat is that while it is easy to heat the ends up and force them over spigots, you're a bit stuffed if you need to dismantle any of the joints by the roadside - it really won't come off.  So you end up with short runs of rubber for things like temporary inline filters.

[Julian]

Can you confirm (or otherwise) that its the fat fuel line that goes to the sedimenter on yours, and not the other way arround (as on mine)

I dont really get it - i cant understand why mine would be reversed - it all looks original, just not the way around that you would expect.

Don't for get we're talking about Land Rover whilst it was still at the "if it fits use it" stage.

As much as I'd like to help I'm not about to fight my way via numerous seized screws to the tank access hatch to compair pipe sizes.

Happy to put a caliper on the OD of the pipes in the engine bay, but again I wouldn't hang your hat on anything being absolutely identical on different vehicles.

If it works, don't mess with it ... you'll be wanting to change the oil next!

[greasemonkey]

I could be wrong, but I tend to think that the sedimenter is fitted, either as standard for foreign markets, where the fuel is worse than ours, (The Congo.......), or, just because that is the way Landrover have always done it, and we are not changing it now, Laddie, and those silly old Japs will never beat us.
Pull it off and chuck it over the hedge.
No idea with the pipes mind, probably the second scenario.

[julianf]

Don't for get we're talking about Land Rover whilst it was still at the "if it fits use it" stage.

As much as I'd like to help I'm not about to fight my way via numerous seized screws to the tank access hatch to compair pipe sizes.

Happy to put a caliper on the OD of the pipes in the engine bay, but again I wouldn't hang your hat on anything being absolutely identical on different vehicles.

If it works, don't mess with it ... you'll be wanting to change the oil next!

I did not mean that you should go undoing things - it was a response to your talk of cleaning the sedimenter.

However, a caliper on the OD of the pipes in the engine bay would get as close -

If you could measure the OD of the line going into the lift pump, and then the OD of the line leaving the IP (returning to the tank) that would be interesting for me.  No spanners required!

[Julian]

I could be wrong, but I tend to think that the sedimenter is fitted, either as standard for foreign markets, where the fuel is worse than ours, (The Congo or Western outposts of Great England Britain .......), or, just because that is the way Landrover have always done it, and we are not changing it now, Laddie, and those silly old Japs will never beat us.
Pull it off and chuck it over the hedge.
No idea with the pipes mind, probably the second scenario.

You wouldn't say that if you'd opened one up and witnessed all the muck they collect.  I'd far rather have it collect there than in the IP.

The only daft thing about it is the location ... inside face of chassis rail above the rear axle ... I'll bet someone in the Land Rover design department had a good laugh when that found it's way into production.

[julianf]

I could be wrong, but I tend to think that the sedimenter is fitted, either as standard for foreign markets, where the fuel is worse than ours, (The Congo.......)

Im thinking that's the truth of it.

Any minimal moisture from condensation in my bio isnt going to sepperate in a sedimenter anyhow, and im pretty sure there's no sand in it.

If i was buying from the side of the road, out of a 205ltr drum, i africa, im thinking the situation could be different.

I have no intention of taking the disco to africa.






In response to Julian -

As i say, i cleaned mine out last week, and was dissapointed.  Those spin on filters kind of have a water trap anyhow.

I have a sedimenter on the 101 also - ive no intention of removing that.  I wouldnt remove this one if it werent for the pipe issue.

Ive read that the reason theyre under the motor is that they are then close to the tank, and protect the rest of the fuel lines. 

[Julian]

Lift pump supply 7.76mm OD

IP return 8.3mm OD

Probably well within spec. for an 8mm OD pipe on a Land Rover.

[julianf]

Hmm... in that case yours is the same as mine - supply thinner than return.

Thank you. 

[julesandtash]

This image reminds me of Dave from Basic Chemicals at the BBB for some reason  Does this look familiar ?



Just a though Julian, why not jury rig a container of bio with the feed going to the lift pump inlet and the return straight from the IP. Effectively bypassing all of the fuel lines.
If there is a performance increase then something in the lines is your problem, if there isn't then there is nothing to be gained from changing them and you need to look in the engine bay.
If performance is still not good, you could connect the jury rigged feed line to the filter instead of the lift pump and try that.
If performace is the same or better, then suspect the lift pump
If it is worse then you are homing in on the injector pump

I can't remember which lift pump you have but, if it's a Delphi one, there is a gauze filter inside the top of the pump (which is held in place by a single slotted screw). They are well worth cleaning on a Delphi.

Also, have you tried disconnecting the return line (injection pump end is easiest) whilst the engine is running and seeing what the return flow from the IP is like. There should be a decent flow. If there is a tiny amount, or none at all then the pump is struggling for fuel or the return banjo is blocked (there is a tiny filter inside there and a very small hole in the side of the banjo bolt. This is designed to maintain pressure inside the IP casing which is what the pump using to control injection timing.