Air leaks, diagnosing fuel system problems

[greasemonkey]

Here's a bit of chatter about filters.
http://www.biopowered.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,1221.60.html

An here's a link that was put up in that thread, with a good range of well priced filters.
http://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/double-filter-assembly-dfa4-p-429.html

[Chug]

When simple attempts like blocked filter etc fail then I' think the only way is to connect clean fuel direct to the IP, thereby eliminating everything but the pump and if its fine, then slowly work back through the fuel system going through filter etc until you find the fault, it may seem like a bit of feckin about jury rigging another container and fuel pipe but in the long term it's a quicker way to find faults I think.

[greasemonkey]

At the moment, the cow is mooing like it should be. No faith it will continue mooing, only time will tell.
As a point of interest, I bled it right through to the IP, fully charged batterys, and it flattened them without giving so much as a cough.
Towed it down the road, and it started almost instantly i took my foot off the clutch.  Didn't want to rev for a while, but went like a clock after that.

Now tomorrow, I need to clean the veg off in the engine bay. Had a major panic attack when clouds of smoke started bellowing into the cab on the test drive........

What's best use? I have no glyc, and don't really want to use washing up liquid. I have engine degreaser, but don't really want to use that either, being as how most the fumes off the engine come straight in the cab.
I guess I'll just use washing up liquid and make sure to wash it off well.

[Rotary-Motion]

At the moment, the cow is mooing like it should be. No faith it will continue mooing, only time will tell.
As a point of interest, I bled it right through to the IP, fully charged batterys, and it flattened them without giving so much as a cough.
Towed it down the road, and it started almost instantly i took my foot off the clutch.  Didn't want to rev for a while, but went like a clock after that.

Now tomorrow, I need to clean the veg off in the engine bay. Had a major panic attack when clouds of smoke started bellowing into the cab on the test drive........

What's best use? I have no glyc, and don't really want to use washing up liquid. I have engine degreaser, but don't really want to use that either, being as how most the fumes off the engine come straight in the cab.
I guess I'll just use washing up liquid and make sure to wash it off well.

does it have glow plugs?

[greasemonkey]

No glow plugs. She had stopped the last time from total lack of fuel, so the IP was dry. Always makes it difficult to start.

[Twenty4Seven]

Well, I found the fault.

It was indeed the filter housing.

First hooked up a feed to the input side of the filter. Almost straight away, air showed in the output side.

Then ran the feed straight into the IP and Bob's yer uncle... ran perfectly.



The little wash bottle full of bio is really useful for filling pipes/priming the IP etc.

Thanks for the tips chaps - much appreciated.

Nick

[greasemonkey]

Good result. From my last little escapade with filter housings, my advice would be....
Study your engine bay carefully, and work out where best to mount a housing.
Look for a filter housing that takes filters with a good thick seal on them, preferably a spin off, rather than an element that goes in a canister. Try to avoid the types that have a bowl that goes on under the filter. They are a PITA, and, by design, the seals are pretty feeble. They are also fiddly, especially at night.
Against that is cost, spin on filters seem more expensive. Check out the prices and availability.
Get a bulb primer for when you need to change it, it makes starting a whole lot easier.
Not that I have done any of this, I did the exact opposite........

[Twenty4Seven]

Thanks GM

Can anyone recommend a primer bulb that is ok with bio? Some on eBlag say "rubber" but the one on the wife's 206 feels more like some kind of plastic... but has stood up well to the bio so far.

Cheers

Nick

[Rotary-Motion]

Thanks GM

Can anyone recommend a primer bulb that is ok with bio? Some on eBlag say "rubber" but the one on the wife's 206 feels more like some kind of plastic... but has stood up well to the bio so far.

Cheers

Nick

go to scrap yard grab one off a 406 / 205 pug etc there proper

I took mine off don't need it

[greasemonkey]

I wouldn't plumb it in, just keep it handy in the vehicle to draw the fuel through after a filter change.

[Chug]

Nick,

if you are not in a hurry send me an address and I'll post one to ya, got one or two kicking about from various shitron/pugs I've swapped engines on.

[Twenty4Seven]

Oh dear

I thought it was too easy......

..... I fitted a second hand fuel filter head and I can now prime the system properly. Let the engine tick over for half an hour. All good, no air in the clear pipe from the filter to the IP. Revved it up to 3500rpm for a while and it faltered and eventually stalled. I thought maybe there was some residual air in the pump. It did reluctantly start and then seemed to be ok so I took it out for a spin. Sure enough, as soon as I asked it to do some work, like negotiating a slight incline, it stalled. Very reluctant to start and running rough. Barely made it back home. So, it's looking more and more like the IP shaft seal. I'll be putting some clear pipe after the pump today to confirm.

Meanwhile, a little light reading.......

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6268129/Bosch_VE_Pumps.pdf

Nick

[Tony]

Keep an eye on your engine oil level, don't let the sump fill with bio like mine did and runaway!

[Dickjotec]

Doing the front seal on the 4m40 is not as bad as some state but it does take time, don't rush it. Make sure you find the mark on the gears before disengaging them and mark with paint, thay are hard to find.
Re the filter head my deli is on its third in my ownership one is on the bench to be modified ready for when it goes again. I moved the filter to make it easier to get at without removing the battery and working at full stretch.

[Tony]

Totally agree with what Dick says.  Mark a pump tooth and corresponding position on the casing before removal.  Also mark bottom of crank pulley vs sump so you can check in case the engine moves slightly.

The job isn't that bad just lots and lots of things to unbolt and disconnect.  The worst is the rear mount bolt(s) under where the high pressure pipes come out.

As for removing the drive gear, either a puller (I had to cable tie the jaws of mine together to stop it springing apart) or a few persuasive taps with a hammer on the outer rim of the gear to shock it off the tapered shaft.  I've done both and the latter is by far the easier - but also the most likely to damage something - use digression.

The times I've done this it has been about 6-7 hours at a relaxed pace with plenty of tea breaks!

Not the weather to tinker with cars though, this is a job that is far less horrible in the summer...