Oil 'log burner' (cross posted from VOD)

[julianf]

Ive just bought a 'log' burner off ebay, mainly as i have another by the same company (that is a real log burner) and i cant see why i wont be able to convert this one.


However, it may be interesting to re-install the oil bit in another housing in the garage or somthing - i assume its a vaporising, rather than wick, burner, but does anyone with more experiance of these things know for sure?

Here are the photos -

[Julian]

.... but does anyone with more experiance of these things know for sure?

Looks like that's a no ... you're about to become the forum expert on the subject.

Keep us informed of progress.

[julianf]

Id go and pick it up this evening, but i put a 'borderline' cut in my finger the other day, and would like to wait a while before lifting..

This is a solid fuel stove by the same company -



What im hoping is that the shell is the same, and that they did not just use tinfoil on the oil versions.   I know that gas stoves are often tame in comparison, but im not sure about oil?

Anyhow, if its suitable, i think im going to not bother with trying to fit a grate, and have it as a wood (glog) only unit.  The same company makes these, wood only, units -



...which are obviously more of less the same again, just without the ash pan at the base.


Im currently wondering if i should cut the side to replicate the air inlet (the spinner thing on the side, which, itself, leads into internal ducting) or do the internal ducting out of black iron pipe, and then room seal the unit, with a simple control valve on the air inlet.

[julianf]

I posted something on navitron about this, but, as i uploaded the photos for that thread, i may as well add them here -


This is the aforementioned oil unit as acquired (less the fake logs, and some of the oil rings) -



The level unit on the back -



I thought i would have to fabricate something for the air-wash, but the unit had it built in - all i need to do is make a handle -



Im planning on blocking up this hole with some sheet steel, and using firebrick over the top, as per the 'wild wood' stove -



Im not sure how high to line the unit, as the top is welded on, and the baffle will need to come out the front for any cleaning -



A quick view of the internal side -



This is the same side, externally - you can see that its double skinned, and hollow inside.  The bottom edge is open on the outside, and the top has airholes cut, i assume for convection?



And, finally, this is the lower door.  Where the prongs locate each side, it would not be easy to seal (as they locate into open space behind) hence my thoughts on just plating over much higher up, so as to be able to seal the unit -

[greasemonkey]

My wood burner is a converted dual fuel, which it looks as though it had a water jacket as well.

It is lined with fire brick, all the way up to the baffle, and the baffle just sits on top of the bricks.

Has the door got a recess to fit an asbestos rope into it to get it to seal? They are not expensive, and come with the glue.

The one thing I see about plating across the top of the oil burner box, is that you will not have much of a depth for ash to build up, which is something a wood burner needs. The greater the depth of ash, the better, upto a point. It looks to me as though it might be better to cut those two ledges that make up the box out, and fill the void with fire bricks upto the desired level. Although if you are using glogs, you may want to weld a plate in, to stop the stuff seeping down in and burning.

The air holes on mine are level with the top of the bricks that the wood sits on, they appear to be the holes left when the riddle was removed, just covered over with a flap to regulate the air flow.

To burn wood, you really need the air coming over the pile of wood, rather than from under it, so maybe drill some holes out.

[julianf]

The main door itself is all roped / seals fine, but the 'ash box' door, although roped, seals onto a section that is not sealed.

Its a crazy design really, for an oil unit.  Im pretty sure that the wood stove came first, and then was adapted to be an oil unit.

...which is great for me, as most of it is in place (eg the top down "air-wash" air input, which was bolted into a fixed position when i picked up the unit)

Im sure i could seal up the 'pit' inside, or rather the door that opens to the 'pit' but i just thought it may be easier to plate over the top of it, as the physical size of the stove matches their (woodwarm's) 9kw wood units, and i dont want anywhere near that output!

In that, keeping it small and hot inside is fine, but youre not the only person who has mentioned the ash bed.  Ash is, of course, good with glyc too, as it sops up those over-enthusiastic mixes before they leak out the side...

[Head Womble]

It looks like it would lend it's self to a Turk burner,
the level unit may keep a controlled feed if you see what I mean.

[julianf]

Its for our lounge, so turk burners are out!

...but, that's a great idea to use the control unit for a turk.  I was going to see if i couldnt flog it on ebay (i think theyre the same units as used on a lot of stoves, eg agas) but, if theyre not worth much, ill see if it couldnt be used elsewhere.  Thanks for the idea!

[Chug]

Those BM control units are good, I have one on my Danish Refleks diesel burner, go for up to £70 pounds on fleabay.

[julianf]

I wouldn't like to get my hopes up, but anything over £31 would be profit : )

[julianf]

Night storage heater bricks - free off freecycle (someone actually delivered them to my doorstep!)







I have not cut or shaped any yet - theyre just as they came (and i have more).

Theyre much thicker than the stove stuff, but i think i can probably live with that.  If it doesnt work, i can always change it later.