Used to change them regularly, but that was before I found out my IP was stuffed... even the slightest restriction would cause a problem for it.
Now it gets changed if it blocked in winter or yearly, whichever is soonest.
I used to regularly see red/brown gloop in the bottom of the filter on changing (and in the tank when removed to clean). But I think that was down to soap in my bio - thanks to Nigel's soap tests I've now knocked that on the head and my fuel is rather good in that respect.
Finishing process is now:
- air bubble freshly made bio until it froths, and then some (froth to me implies no more Methanol, and the additional bubbling after that is just for agitation - it really seems to help with the settling).
- stand for at least a week
- circulate the contents of the barrel (without removing the bio from the soap at the bottom) through a drywash tower for a couple of hours. The settled soaps stay at the bottom, this is not a problem.
- pump out for storage
- 1u filter from storage (top skimming) into drums to take to the car
What you could try is putting a 25l drum in the boot and drive it around for a week. You may well find a thin trace of red gloop in the bottom if it's not adequately soap-free, which is what I used to see when taking drums on long trips with me.
Now if I do that it remains perfect all the way through.
This is what gave me the idea of agitation during settling. I used to do this with a little circulation pump, but the bubbler is more energy efficient - at the moment I'm wiring up a VFD to a little three phase gear pump to see how much power that draws, expressly for the purpose of agitation during settling and after that, for pushing the liquid through the drywash tower.
I know my settle process sounds like a lot of work but believe me, I'm pretty lazy and it isn't
