Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
General => Wiki and forum discussion => Topic started by: nathanrobo on February 10, 2013, 08:16:00 PM
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I've been putting together a page for wiki.
I'd welcome comments on the content / grammar - anything. If noone has any objections I was planning to delete the topic once it's up on wiki - no need for duplication. It's a bit wordy, so can always condense a bit:
Background:
The Home brewer has a number of challenges from a filtration perspective. These include contaminants that seem liqiud or semi – liquid in form which either simply flow through barrier filtration or quickly block it. One of the biggest challenges is the removal of what is commonly referred to as HMPE's – these are not always visible in fuel and will not always settle out quickly by gravity settling alone. For WVO users there is a requirement to filter to sub-micron levels, but this too can be time consuming and messy. Centrifuges have been successfully used for accomplishing fine filtration within an hour or two and can be done without mess and without the need for consumables (such as filter elements).
Centrifuges come in many guises, but they are basically a device for separating suspended contaminants that have a different specific gravity (SG). By spinning at high speed the massive amount of G-force generated, acts on solids with higher SG, which are flung to the wall of the centrifuge at the same time the oil exits through it's ports or drain. Water being of a higher specific gravity can be separated too, but in the pressured oil type of centrifuge, whatever water does not stick to the contaminant cake, drains with the oil (see section below)
For the home bio brewer there are two main types: Motor driven & Pressure driven. Centrifuges are also used for hydraulic oils, waste motor oil, swarf oil etc. Other types not discussed include water separators – these are very expensive and tend to be used for large commercial operations.
Motor Driven
The motor driven types are generally produced from a single milled piece of aluminium with a channel and port for the oil and a channel and port for the water. The oil drains in one direction and the water drains in the other. The motor is mounted vertically, so manufacturers modify a standard motor with a special seal that protects the motors bearings from water. Advantages of this design is the ability to remove solids of far greater size and the ability to separate water. The disadvantages are that it can be a messy process and not unattended and it's a flower flow rate. They are also pretty pricey at £1400. The best known design is WVO designs. They can be homemade, but given the speed that the bowl needs to be spun at to work, extreme care should be taken to ensure that the bowl is well balance and that the bearing that locates it to the motor shaft is perfectly secure.
Pressure driven
Originally developed by Mann & Hummel for fitting to the lube oil system on large diesel engines, as a way of removing carbon and wear material not caught by the engine's oil filter – this has enabled longer oil service intervals and greater engine life. When being used for either WVO filtration, as final polish for biodiesel or as a way or removing high melting point elements (often referred to as HMPE's), a gear pump is required plus fittings which include tees, lever ball valve, a hose assembly, a pressure relief valve and a pressure gauge. The centrifuge has tangentially opposed jets at the bottom of it's rotor, through which oil is forced through causing high speed rotation. The rotor has a bowl / cap that acts as a wall for the contaminant cake. This design has an inlet pot (often 1/4” bsp or 3/8 bsp) and a drain hole at the bottom of the unit. Differences between different types of unit are viton vs. butyl rubber seals and some are dynamically balanced for reduced noise.
The centrifuge needs to be driven with oil pressure of between 5 – 7 bar and a relatively low flow (not greater than one and a half times the throughput of the centrifuge at 7 bar).
The advantage of oil pressured centrifuges are: An unattended process with no mess, cleaning down to sub-micron levels at a about 1/3 the price of motor driven devices. Disadvantages: despite the claims of some, these are not an effective water removing device and requires pre-straining (250 ≠º¡•¡) and heating oil (probably 50 – 60deg) in the case of WVO.
Many recognise the benefits of using a centrifuge to clean WVO to sub-micron levels or to finely polish biodiesel and remove high melting point elements that cause waxing. But questions are often asked about what pumps are suitable:
Gear pumps
Oil pressured centrifuges need 5 - 7 bar pressure to work well with our application (when used on an engine's lube circuit, it's not so critical).
The gear pump's flow is important too! Flow should be rated a just a bit higher than the throughput fromt he centrifuge at 7 bar (coz pressure and flow will change slightly due to the oils viscosity - bio will have a bit of slip through the gears for example resulting in slightly lower pressure / flow).
The range of flow from the different models used by bio / wvo types are between 4.6 and 8 LPM. So pumps should be < 9LPM. This needs to be compared with the gear pumps that are actually available. For example 3cc per rev driven by a motor at 1400rpm or 2645rpm or 2755 rpm. 5cc per rev pumps are commonly available too.
Power steering pumps have been successfully used. If driven by a motor via a belt, using different gears would allow you to get a decent match. It would seem that a power steering pump from a small car would suffice.
The pump (and the fuge) should be protected from a 'dead head of pressure' using a pressure relief valve. Dieselcraft (centrifuge seller have a good page about this on their web site). Any PRV should be configured to relief the pump if a jet blocks and the fuge if the pump pushes >7 bar pressure.
A Tam pump will not work, neither will any centrifugal or peripheral pump - The flow would be to high and they're not good for anywhere near the sort of pressure required to drive a fuge. Gear pumps are very different to other pumps that we use, are very ru99ed and have a much longer life. Gear pumps can be purchased from Ebay and can be pretty cheap in China, these usually need mating to a 1/2 HP or 3/4 HP motor via a coupler with a shroud covering the coupler.
In terms of port size a 1" isn't great as you need to reduce to 1/2" before the lever ball valve which acts as a pressure / flow regulator (a 1" ball valve is difficult to use and be precise). If using a pump with a 1/2" discharge couple to a 1/2" tee with the ball valve on the branch of the tee and hose to the fuge on the run of the tee. If using a pump with a 1/4" discharge use a 1/4" tee with a 1/4" ball valve on the Tee's branch.
If you are using the pump with WVO you should pre-strain at 250 mu and heat the oil, as you have to heat it any way, why not do it as part of dewatering, but heating to >70 deg C centrifuging and then leaving to settle and running any water and creamy stuff off the bottom. If you plan to do this check the temperature rating of your pump. When fuging Biodiesel, the fuel should be settled for as long as possible at the coldest temperature range that it is like to be used at. This will ensure that any high melting point elements that form will be removed, before they can settle out into the fuel tank.
If using the pump with bio check for Viton seals. You can also use the pump to drive the oil through hardwood shavings or a polish pot if you're reducing water ppms on dispense. Gear pumps are not self priming and therefore be configured with flooded suction. The most effective way to do this is by using a conical tank and pulling from the bottom with the pump cited below the level of the tank.
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Really good. One or two typos, and Alt+0181 will give you the micron symbol.
Couple of other things ... we try and avoid referring to commercial outfits, unless absolutely germane to the page. Oilybits could become "a well known on line bio equipment supplier". If the Dieselcraft info is particularly good we can ask them if we can reproduce the content and credit it to them ... but no link I'm afraid.
Is it imperative for WVO users to filter to submicron? Vehicle filters only work down to circa 3µ I believe.
Best course of action would be to throw it up on the wiki and edit it there. If you need any schematics for the page, let me know, I can upload photos of a bowl centrifuge if that will help.
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Really good. One or two typos, and Alt+0181 will give you the micron symbol.
Couple of other things ... we try and avoid referring to commercial outfits, unless absolutely germane to the page. Oilybits could become "a well known on line bio equipment supplier". If the Dieselcraft info is particularly good we can ask them if we can reproduce the content and credit it to them ... but no link I'm afraid.
Is it imperative for WVO users to filter to submicron? Vehicle filters only work down to circa 3µ I believe.
Best course of action would be to throw it up on the wiki and edit it there. If you need any schematics for the page, let me know, I can upload photos of a bowl centrifuge if that will help.
Thanks Julian,
No probs about the commercial bit, it was in there by mistake (copied and pasted from a post on VOD I think). We can take all mention out - but if folk feel that the content is worth reproducing, we might be more successful getting permission if somebody other than me asks them.
Ref the WVO, I don't really have any personal experience, just opinions (so probably not too useful).
Ref pics it would be good to get pics of DIY motor driven stuff, we can get a pic for the WVO designs products, I can help with some stuff.
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Julian
I might struggle with the micron sign, I've tried alt+0181 and you can see what it's given me. Would it be different on a mac?
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On Mac OS:
Hold down the Option key and press M
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I've no experience with Macs but it looks like Bobby boy above has it in hand. Failing, that once it's on a wiki page it can be edited by a PC user.
Have you got a link to the Dieselcraft page? I'm happy to ask if necessary.
I recon the best way forward is to stick it up on the wiki and do any editing there. They're not often used but there is a discussion page for each wiki page, however comments may find a wider audience here on the forum.
Do you want to have a bash at starting the page? Just do a search on what you want the page title to be ie Centrifuges. Search will tell you no such page exists and ask you if you want to start a new page with that title. Click yes or OK ... can't remember which, paste your text into the box, click save and that's the page startred.
We can help format things and tart it up after that. If we don't put categories at the bottom until it's finished, it won't appear on the main page and hence only members on her will view it.
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Good write up, needs wiking asap. Some proper specialist knowledge in there.
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Anyone volunteering to make some simple diagrams - I know even less about these than i do fuges.
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I've no experience with Macs but it looks like Bobby boy above has it in hand. Failing, that once it's on a wiki page it can be edited by a PC user.
Have you got a link to the Dieselcraft page? I'm happy to ask if necessary.
I recon the best way forward is to stick it up on the wiki and do any editing there. They're not often used but there is a discussion page for each wiki page, however comments may find a wider audience here on the forum.
Do you want to have a bash at starting the page? Just do a search on what you want the page title to be ie Centrifuges. Search will tell you no such page exists and ask you if you want to start a new page with that title. Click yes or OK ... can't remember which, paste your text into the box, click save and that's the page startred.
We can help format things and tart it up after that. If we don't put categories at the bottom until it's finished, it won't appear on the main page and hence only members on her will view it.
Julian,
Here's the link for the Dieselcraft page http://svotutorial.org/index.php/WVO/the-dieselcraft-centrifuge.html (http://svotutorial.org/index.php/WVO/the-dieselcraft-centrifuge.html)
I seem to be having probs creating a new page, I seemed to be logged out whenever I go onto wiki?? Maybe just being a numpty!
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Anyone volunteering to make some simple diagrams - I know even less about these than i do fuges.
If you can give me some idea of what you need ... scanned pencil sketches or similar, I'm happy to do them.
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Anything really that would show the filter unit perched above the tank, the pump below the level of the oil, suction taken from the bottom of a conical tank, a lever ball valve on the branch of a tee on the pump's discharge, a hose on the run of the same tee, on the other end of the hose another couple of tees, first with a PRV, the other with a gauge all connected to the fuge.
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Anything really that would show the filter unit perched above the tank, the pump below the level of the oil, suction taken from the bottom of a conical tank, a lever ball valve on the branch of a tee on the pump's discharge, a hose on the run of the same tee, on the other end of the hose another couple of tees, first with a PRV, the other with a gauge all connected to the fuge.
OK, no too difficult. By "filter unit" you mean centrifuge, I assume. Got any photos of the set up and any of a centrifuge and pump and motor, side on, along with an indication of the sizes (so I can get them in proportion)
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I've no experience with Macs but it looks like Bobby boy above has it in hand. Failing, that once it's on a wiki page it can be edited by a PC user.
Have you got a link to the Dieselcraft page? I'm happy to ask if necessary.
I recon the best way forward is to stick it up on the wiki and do any editing there. They're not often used but there is a discussion page for each wiki page, however comments may find a wider audience here on the forum.
Do you want to have a bash at starting the page? Just do a search on what you want the page title to be ie Centrifuges. Search will tell you no such page exists and ask you if you want to start a new page with that title. Click yes or OK ... can't remember which, paste your text into the box, click save and that's the page startred.
We can help format things and tart it up after that. If we don't put categories at the bottom until it's finished, it won't appear on the main page and hence only members on her will view it.
Julian,
Here's the link for the Dieselcraft page http://svotutorial.org/index.php/WVO/the-dieselcraft-centrifuge.html (http://svotutorial.org/index.php/WVO/the-dieselcraft-centrifuge.html)
I seem to be having probs creating a new page, I seemed to be logged out whenever I go onto wiki?? Maybe just being a numpty!
What on the page it is you want ... the cross section seems to be the most informative.
Don't know why you're having trouble logging on. If you're logged on to the forum you should be automatically logged on to the wiki, but you could try logging on to the wiki separately ... top left Edit sorry right! Edit of any wiki page.
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Julian, I'm sure it's just down to my incompetence! But I log in on wiki and it takes me to the forum, if I then select wiki again, I'm not logged in, if i go back to the forum, I don't need to log in again, I'm already logged in.
But if you could copy and paste what's there, as you say it can be edited as required.
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OK, No problem, I'll do that shortly. Hopefully Tony will pick up on the logging on issue, he'll sort in in the blink of an eye, but in the mean time have you tried logging out of the forum and then logging onto the wiki. Or possibly try clearing your cookies ... pure guess work on my part!
That page you link to isn't Dieselcraft it's a site run/owned by RickDaTech in the USA.
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There you go ... http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Centrifuges
I ran the text through a smell checker and added a few °C's and µ's.
I'll try and get photos of my bowl centrifuge uploaded tomorrow.
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OK, No problem, I'll do that shortly. Hopefully Tony will pick up on the logging on issue, he'll sort in in the blink of an eye, but in the mean time have you tried logging out of the forum and then logging onto the wiki. Or possibly try clearing your cookies ... pure guess work on my part!
That page you link to isn't Dieselcraft it's a site run/owned by RickDaTech in the USA.
Great! Ref the link, that's my limited attention span. Can we use it?
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Fixed, Nathanrobo wasn't in the editors group, is now.
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Thanks Tony. Managed to log in now.
Before submitting images I'd like to get views on them. There will of course be no commercial branding, but I'd like to make sure that the images convey what I think they do.
Also is it possible to put a photobucket video link to a fuge being operated?
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I'm not sure the video embedding system allows photobucket videos. Youtube is supported, however - would it be possible to upload it to youtube as well?
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Fixed, Nathanrobo wasn't in the editors group, is now.
Glad someone knows what they are doing ... why didn't I think of that?
Thread moved to the wiki discussion forum.
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I'm not sure the video embedding system allows photobucket videos. Youtube is supported, however - would it be possible to upload it to youtube as well?
Can do youtube (well kids can).
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Really good. One or two typos, and Alt+0181 will give you the micron symbol.
Couple of other things ... we try and avoid referring to commercial outfits, unless absolutely germane to the page. Oilybits could become "a well known on line bio equipment supplier". If the Dieselcraft info is particularly good we can ask them if we can reproduce the content and credit it to them ... but no link I'm afraid.
Is it imperative for WVO users to filter to submicron? Vehicle filters only work down to circa 3µ I believe.
Best course of action would be to throw it up on the wiki and edit it there. If you need any schematics for the page, let me know, I can upload photos of a bowl centrifuge if that will help.
Thanks Julian,
No probs about the commercial bit, it was in there by mistake (copied and pasted from a post on VOD I think). We can take all mention out - but if folk feel that the content is worth reproducing, we might be more successful getting permission if somebody other than me asks them.
Ref the WVO, I don't really have any personal experience, just opinions (so probably not too useful).
Ref pics it would be good to get pics of DIY motor driven stuff, we can get a pic for the WVO designs products, I can help with some stuff.
Chug has just posted this on the VOD ...
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find out what rating your vehicles fuel filter is and filter to that.
I phoned around the major manufacturers a few years back and most are around 8-10 micron but some go to 5 micron, and some high performance vehicles go to 2 or even 1 micron.
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So it's probably not necessary to go submicron. Can any of the veg chaps confirm Keef, RM?
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Here you go, photos of DIY Bowl centrifuge. They've all been uploaded to the wiki, so just use one of the following formats to stick them on the page ...
[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg]]
OR
[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Title text here]]
(http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/9/95/Centrifuge_with_splash_guard_removed.JPG)
(http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/a/a1/Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg)
(http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/c/c2/Centrifuge_fat_and_water_removed.JPG)
(http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/e/ee/Centrifuge_in_operation.jpg)
Let me know if you need any more.
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That's really cool! Is there any information about the connection between the motor's shaft and the bowl?
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Yep ... hole in bowl into which the motor shaft goes, secured by a grub screw at rightangles ... why?
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So it's probably not necessary to go submicron. Can any of the veg chaps confirm Keef, RM?
as to microns of cars my understanding of it all is whats been written 10 down to 1m
i filter down to 1m but its not really 1m as (i cant remeber terminology) but 1m is only a loose form of micron, i think people sub micron due to trying to actually get 1m finished article. meaning people use 0.5m so if any error factor on actual micron 0.5 really ends up more precisely 1m more definately...
moving on to car filters mine are gone! i use sausage filter 40m? at a guess, this lets 100% thick veg oil through and stops rubbish and no need to change it ever, well not yet anyhooes done 1000's of miles so have another 4x vehicles and still going...
for veg oil 10 to 1m is too small for thick veg, how could you expect veg to go through something as thin as diesel can go through...
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Yep ... hole in bowl into which the motor shaft goes, secured by a grub screw at rightangles ... why?
Coz a couple of years back I was looking at the raw power fuge talked to the guy at WVO designs. There was a specific fitting that they used with the shaft for safety, I'll try to dig it up on my other computer. I'm just acutely aware that if we're going to show people how to make a diy unit, we need to make sure that they understand how to do it safely.
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So it's probably not necessary to go submicron. Can any of the veg chaps confirm Keef, RM?
as to microns of cars my understanding of it all is whats been written 10 down to 1m
i filter down to 1m but its not really 1m as (i cant remeber terminology) but 1m is only a loose form of micron, i think people sub micron due to trying to actually get 1m finished article. meaning people use 0.5m so if any error factor on actual micron 0.5 really ends up more precisely 1m more definately...
moving on to car filters mine are gone! i use sausage filter 40m? at a guess, this lets 100% thick veg oil through and stops rubbish and no need to change it ever, well not yet anyhooes done 1000's of miles so have another 4x vehicles and still going...
for veg oil 10 to 1m is too small for thick veg, how could you expect veg to go through something as thin as diesel can go through...
I never used veg, but I do know a little about filtration. The issue is that sediment filters do not filter to an absolute value, as a lot of things in our process they are designed for water. Their efficiency is often around the 60% mark, meaning that a 10mu filter will stop 60% of solids up to that value. These filters can also become punched through... this is the point at which pressure builds up behind the particles and eventually punches them through the filter, the differential pressure gauge spikes for a time and then drops down as the particles clear.
if the user is not watching the gauge at this time, he may not be aware that the filter has gone beyond the critical point of change (I believe that I might have experienced this polishing bio a few years back).
There are some filters that are designed for oil and have an absolute value (for example Filtertechnik hippo pots). The other issue that we have is contaminant that is not solid but that can conglomerate and block stuff (technical term).
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Yep ... hole in bowl into which the motor shaft goes, secured by a grub screw at rightangles ... why?
Coz a couple of years back I was looking at the raw power fuge talked to the guy at WVO designs. There was a specific fitting that they used with the shaft for safety, I'll try to dig it up on my other computer. I'm just acutely aware that if we're going to show people how to make a diy unit, we need to make sure that they understand how to do it safely.
Certainly not my intention to show people how to make a copy of it. From a safety point of view attachment to the shaft is s minor issue compaired with the other issues in my method of construction! The intention was to use the photos to illustrate what a bowl centrifuge was like and what it can do.
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So it's probably not necessary to go submicron. Can any of the veg chaps confirm Keef, RM?
as to microns of cars my understanding of it all is whats been written 10 down to 1m
i filter down to 1m but its not really 1m as (i cant remeber terminology) but 1m is only a loose form of micron, i think people sub micron due to trying to actually get 1m finished article. meaning people use 0.5m so if any error factor on actual micron 0.5 really ends up more precisely 1m more definately...
moving on to car filters mine are gone! i use sausage filter 40m? at a guess, this lets 100% thick veg oil through and stops rubbish and no need to change it ever, well not yet anyhooes done 1000's of miles so have another 4x vehicles and still going...
for veg oil 10 to 1m is too small for thick veg, how could you expect veg to go through something as thin as diesel can go through...
I never used veg, but I do know a little about filtration. The issue is that sediment filters do not filter to an absolute value, as a lot of things in our process they are designed for water. Their efficiency is often around the 60% mark, meaning that a 10mu filter will stop 60% of solids up to that value. These filters can also become punched through... this is the point at which pressure builds up behind the particles and eventually punches them through the filter, the differential pressure gauge spikes for a time and then drops down as the particles clear.
if the user is not watching the gauge at this time, he may not be aware that the filter has gone beyond the critical point of change (I believe that I might have experienced this polishing bio a few years back).
There are some filters that are designed for oil and have an absolute value (for example Filtertechnik hippo pots). The other issue that we have is contaminant that is not solid but that can conglomerate and block stuff (technical term).
very well put indeed and that terminolgy word i couldnt get was as you say "absolute" should of remebered that its vodka :)
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very well put indeed and that terminolgy word i couldnt get was as you say "absolute" should of remebered that its vodka :)
[/quote]
The vodka is for bio brewers with open top machines. Stops the meth vapours being absorbed into the Liver & Kidneys, I believe.
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Uploading pics has seriously defeated me so far! Help (please!!)
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You need the pictures on your computer. Give them a descriptive name (not, for example, what a camera names them ). Log on to the wiki (now you can!) and go to "Upload file" in tool box on the lefthand side of the page.
Click "Browse" and locate the photo on your computer in the new window and double click it. Click "Upload file" and the job's done.
When it's uploaded you will have a screen withyour uploaded photo and above it "File:Your file name.jpg" Use the "File:Your file name.jpg" to put the photo on your page.
Use either ...
[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg]]
OR
[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Title text here]]
The first little bit of code will load the photo full size. The second will put it in a frame and re-size it.
The "200px" dictates the width of the thumbnail ... you can alter the size.
The "thumb" dictates the format of a thumbnail.
The "left" dictates the positioning on the page ... you can change this to right or center (not US spelling)
The "Title texthere" stipulates the text under the photo ... you can change this to suit.
Hope that helps, if not let me know.
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You need the pictures on your computer. Give them a descriptive name (not, for example, what a camera names them ). Log on to the wiki (now you can!) and go to "Upload file" in tool box on the lefthand side of the page.
Click "Browse" and locate the photo on your computer in the new window and double click it. Click "Upload file" and the job's done.
When it's uploaded you will have a screen withyour uploaded photo and above it "File:Your file name.jpg" Use the "File:Your file name.jpg" to put the photo on your page.
Use either ...
[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg]]
OR
[[File:Centrifuge_before_and_after.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Title text here]]
The first little bit of code will load the photo full size. The second will put it in a frame and re-size it.
The "200px" dictates the width of the thumbnail ... you can alter the size.
The "thumb" dictates the format of a thumbnail.
The "left" dictates the positioning on the page ... you can change this to right or center (not US spelling)
The "Title texthere" stipulates the text under the photo ... you can change this to suit.
Hope that helps, if not let me know.
I realised that outside links weren't working, so I did try to load them from my computer. I think the problem may have been the html and the file sizes and image resolution size (200px).
I've gotta wrestle my other computer from one of the kids, it's go adobe, whatever it is on it, so I can edit the pics a bit later and try again.
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I don't think the resolution will effect the upload (unless it's stupidly high, affecting the files size), but the file size will. The max file size is 2 meg, but that should be more than enough for run of the mill photos.
The system occasionally times out when I try and upload but that may be more to do with file size vs upload speed.
I notice you've been uploading one of the files I posted in this thread. I did say they had already been uploaded to the wiki, but it's not an issue, they will just overwrite.
If you want to check what photos are already on the wiki, once you are logged in go to "Special pages", "Gallery of new files" and they are all listed there with thumbnails.
Have another crack with a new photo ... it would be helpful if you could upload the references for the schematic you require.
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I notice you've been uploading one of the files I posted in this thread. I did say they had already been uploaded to the wiki, but it's not an issue, they will just overwrite.
Still trying to get to grips with it. I can talk the tech, but not do it so well (many mispend years selling I.T)
If you want to check what photos are already on the wiki, once you are logged in go to "Special pages", "Gallery of new files" and they are all listed there with thumbnails.
Have another crack with a new photo ... it would be helpful if you could upload the references for the schematic you require.
Thanks for that I'll have a look... the photo that I wanted to add was done on my phone - by default, it's a stupidly high file size :-(
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I have to put my pics into "paint" then save as a jpeg otherwise none of them will load to the wiki
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I have to put my pics into "paint" then save as a jpeg otherwise none of them will load to the wiki
Ooo hark at Mr Stabilisers getting all technical!
What format are your pictures saved in, Nathan?
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I think they are .jpg by default, but I used adobe fireworks for editing, so I can edit to any format.
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I think they are .jpg by default, but I used adobe fireworks for editing, so I can edit to any format.
That may be the problem as Lance hinted above. I edit in photo-paint and when ever it can it converts everything to .cpt. I have to export in .jpg or .png (if it's line art). The wiki will accept the following graphics files ... png, gif, jpg, jpeg.
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more info here but think it saves .png
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/fireworks/cs/using/WS4c25cfbb1410b0021e63e3d1152b00db4b-7fc2.html
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I think they are .jpg by default, but I used adobe fireworks for editing, so I can edit to any format.
That may be the problem as Lance hinted above. I edit in photo-paint and when ever it can it converts everything to .cpt. I have to export in .jpg or .png (if it's line art). The wiki will accept the following graphics files ... png, gif, jpg, jpeg.
more info here but think it saves .png
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/fireworks/cs/using/WS4c25cfbb1410b0021e63e3d1152b00db4b-7fc2.html
They're all common formats (c I do know something about computers) and fireworks can save them all. But png is the default. I've not used it for a while as it's on my old mac, which I gave to my son for populating the web store on my Fiat web site. Prising it out of his hands is like trying to get a bone off a rottweiler!