Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
Biodiesel => Biodiesel equipment => Topic started by: Julian on November 18, 2014, 07:04:02 PM
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Four hour print last night produced a new cover for Frankinpump (My TAM 120) ...
(http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 1.jpg)
(http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 2.jpg)
I have to say the original design was poor and it's little wonder they break. The pillar through which the screw passes is a few millimeters clear of the motor body and very lightly attached to the rest of the box, so tightening the screw tries to tear the pillar from the box.
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Mighty tidy looking. Love the personalised brand name.
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That's cool. I need a new pump cover for my vane pump, just need to build a 3d printer it seems!
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That's cool. I need a new pump cover for my vane pump, just need to build a 3d printer it seems!
How big's the cover and have you used Sketchup?
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Mighty tidy looking. Love the personalised brand name.
Yes I was trying to be flash, but it didn't print right ... I think the software thought the name wasn't really part of the box!
Strange things happen in 3D, well they do when I'm trying to draw things!
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'Tis a mighty fine bit of printing Julian. Very impressive.
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That's cool. I need a new pump cover for my vane pump, just need to build a 3d printer it seems!
How big's the cover and have you used Sketchup?
Julian is offering to make you one with the Biopowered logo printed on the front of it.............
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That is excellent Julian 8)
it looks like you added a strengthening rib all round inside, or is that just my monitor/a print line? and beefed up the screw pillars?
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How big's the cover and have you used Sketchup?
Julian,
Did you have prior 3d cad experience?
I ask, as i know you have not been doing the 3d printing for all that long, and you seem to have mastered the CAD side of it very well.
If you were new(ish) to 3d CAD, is it easier than i fear, or have you just spent hour after hour staring at the screen in frustration?
My cnc machine is entirely capable of 3d milling, but ive never thought i have enough of an application for 3d objects to suffer, what ive perceived, to be the harsh learning curve of 3d CAD.
As i say, im impressed with what youre up to, and am wondering if i shouldnt give it some more thought?
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3D drafting/drawing is amazingly simple, it must be 'cause I can do it, I can even Import and alter other peoples stl files (3d drawing format files).
It only took me a couple of hours to get me head round it.
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when are we getting the first laser sintered venturi then? iw onder if you can mix laser sintering and plastic 3d printing on the same object. laser sintered internals to reduce wear with a nylon outer.?
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That's cool. I need a new pump cover for my vane pump, just need to build a 3d printer it seems!
How big's the cover and have you used Sketchup?
Julian is offering to make you one with the Biopowered logo printed on the front of it.............
Julian was trying to find out how long Tonys terminal box would take to print whilst trying to avoid the time and responsibility of drawing it before offering to print one for Tony (with or without the biopowered logo).
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That is excellent Julian 8)
it looks like you added a strengthening rib all round inside, or is that just my monitor/a print line? and beefed up the screw pillars?
It's a quirk of the photo, there's no strengthening rib around the inside. I did however, make the walls much thicker ... 3mm as against circa 1.5mm and as you say,blend the pillars into the body. The thickening of the pillars on the inside, is to account for the recess for the screw heads on the top.
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Julian,
Did you have prior 3d cad experience?
I ask, as i know you have not been doing the 3d printing for all that long, and you seem to have mastered the CAD side of it very well.
If you were new(ish) to 3d CAD, is it easier than i fear, or have you just spent hour after hour staring at the screen in frustration?
My cnc machine is entirely capable of 3d milling, but ive never thought i have enough of an application for 3d objects to suffer, what ive perceived, to be the harsh learning curve of 3d CAD.
As i say, im impressed with what youre up to, and am wondering if i shouldnt give it some more thought?
No 3D drafting experience prior to building the printer, but I did have a tiny bit of auto AutoCAD and copious 2D graphic experience with CorelDraw previously. This is a relatively simple shape compared with some of the things I've been working on ... currently playing a little machine to cut aluminium foil into selectable lengths and fold one end over to a selectable size.
That, if it ever works, will involve printed gears, rollers slides and leavers all driven by stepper motors and servos controlled by and Arduino.
These printers have their limitations, but it's truly amazing what they can do and just how useful they are ... there are numerous repaired and replacements and inventionettes around the house now.
If your machine is that capable and you haven't considered it, you really should. Jim will be able to give you some gen on 3D routers, but I'm sure you could buy/make an extruder head to print plastic. From Sketchup an stl file, via other software will generate G code which may well run your machine or I think there may be a Sketchup "plugin" that will generate router paths directly.
As for the 3D drafting side, as Jim says, it's not that difficult. It can be frustrating at first, but I've been playing with it for nearly a year now and it's certainly getting quicker and easier to use. 3D drafting not the most changeling part of getting a printer operational.
Probably the best thing you could do is to down load Sketchup and just have a play ... Tony needs a terminal box drawing!
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when are we getting the first laser sintered venturi then? iw onder if you can mix laser sintering and plastic 3d printing on the same object. laser sintered internals to reduce wear with a nylon outer.?
Not sure about lazer sintering, but it's quite possible to use printed PLA in a "lost plastic" casting process. That could deliver a brass venturi quite easily.
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When you have the lid off Frankenpump, could you have a look at the wires please?
When mine blew it was the top that went so i have no + or - signs, i have a Yellow and a Red wire, i would assume Red to Positive, but it wouldn't hurt to make sure
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When you have the lid off Frankenpump, could you have a look at the wires please?
When mine blew it was the top that went so i have no + or - signs, i have a Yellow and a Red wire, i would assume Red to Positive, but it wouldn't hurt to make sure
I left the comfort of the log burner and ventured out into a cold shed. On close inspection I'm surprised the thing runs at all ... there's a bloody great hole in the end of it and it's all black, so if there were originally polarity marking on it, there certainly aren't now!
Probably not much help as it may vary manufacturer to manufacturer, but looking on the pump end towards the motor, the red wire is on the right and the printed spec on the capacitor body is facing up towards the terminal box lid.
Think I'd better go and buy a new capacitor too!
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Anyways ... I thought oakwoodtv said they were not polarity sensitive for this duty.
Is the one you bought marked + and - ?
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Just re read Oakwoods post, you are correct, funny first time i read it, i read it as they were specific, hasn't arrived yet but i want to run it as soon as it does, it died at the end of a first stage
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Just got in from the pub so excuse the spelling electrolytic capacitors used for DC normally have a positive and negative terminal unless its marked bi polar.
AC capacitors will work ether way round as the voltage changes from positive to negative 50 times a second and they are destined to work with the alternating current.
If this makes no sense I will have a another go tomorrow.
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Amazingly I kind of understand that!
Amazing due to my normal inability to understand simple electronics, not for the sobriety of your explanation.
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Amazing ... it fits!!
(http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 3.JPG)
I know not many members (two to my knowledge) have 3D printers, but in the spirit of sharing, knowing that non-members who may have a printer have access to the wiki and that the technology will grow in popularity, what are peoples thoughts of making the file available on the wiki? I'll get shot of the Frankinpump name and perhaps, as Jualinf suggests, add the biopowered logo. Defiantly puts biopowered at the "cutting edge" and, over time, other items could be added.
Tony/James ... I've vague recollections of downloading files from the wiki being a security issue, is that right? Can it be done?
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In a similar vein to the comments in my last post, I've made the thread name a little more search friendly!
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If its possible i think its a great idea
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How about doing one for TAM105s as well Julian.
If you do, I will buy two off of you as both my pumps have busted terminal covers (OK one is a genuine TAM105 and one isn't but takes the same sized cover
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I'd be happy to provided you don't hold your breath whilst I do it.
I'd need a broken one to measure and copy though.
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have to take the cost in to consideration though. a new tam 105 cover is only fiver or so.
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have to take the cost in to consideration though. a new tam 105 cover is only fiver or so.
It's about 4 minutes to set a print going and a couple of quid in plastic (for the TAM 120). To draw the file in the first place can take ages and, if priced commercially, could run into hundreds of pounds.
I made a couple of little inserts to extend the fuselage of a model aeroplane. The chap said he knew dozens of people who would be interested, they could be sold over the internet for a good profit and he'd advertise them on his model forum, so I made him a couple FOC. It took me many evenings and several prints to get them right and guess what ... I never heard another thing, but last I heard his model is coming along nicely!
So costing is a funny thing with this printing lark, the actual, realistic cost can be quite high, but the perceived value is usually low. I guess that's why 3D printers have only found a commercial niche for prototyping.
Anyhow, Jules is a very wealthy man now he has no heating or electric bills, so I'm sure he can afford it!!
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Neat, that. Super cool.
It'll look pretty impressive on the Wiki anyhow. Over time, more peeps are bound to start getting 3d printers.
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have to take the cost in to consideration though. a new tam 105 cover is only fiver or so.
and last about five minutes when splattered with biodiesel - ask me how I know :)
Anyhow, Jules is a very wealthy man now he has no heating or electric bills, so I'm sure he can afford it!!
If only - it has taken quite a lot of investment (read borrowing) to get to this stage which I am now trying to pay back
My heating bills are not actually zero, my heating and CHP bio is around 28ppl so not free but a lot cheaper than kero or red diesel. Even at that price, the lister generated power only just about equates with grid power. Only by running in full CHP does it really work out cheaper than using mains power.
You may well have read my discussion on VOD (mainly myself and hifly recently) and seen that it's not quite perfect and there is still some work to be done (read more investment)
But yes, I would still be very interested in a couple of TAM covers. Mine are too broken to be of any use as a pattern but would happily buy a pair of new ones (main terminal housing and top cover) and send to you as patters if you are up for it
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Thank you Jules ... made my day ... it's rare that any baited line I throw into the water ever hooks a fish! He, he!
PLA seems, from tests to date, to be reasonably bio and methanol proof. I'll fish the samples out of the jars (see what I did there?) later and make a physical check, but visually they've survived several months submerged with no obvious ill effect. Caustic is a different kettle of fish though (see what I did there?). PLA is sometimes used as support in an ABS print which is later dissolved away with an NaOH solution, so don't go dropping any methoxide on it.
Before you rush out and plaice an order (see what I did there?) for a new one, let's see if anyone can magic up an unused or broken item which they can lend us. A whole pump would be even better, because I can check the cover fits the pump. With the TAM 120 cover I printed a thin section (like a gasket) first to check the fit, so the whole pump would be a great help.
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You should be on stage with lines like that, would net you a small fortune :)
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I think ill be able to find you a leo pump cover - i think they are the same.
...but i thought you had a leo anyhow?
I probably have a pump not in use also.
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I do indeed have a little Leo which is now spare with the introduction of Frankinpump.
I'll check, but I'm pretty sure they're not the same as Tam 105s.
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I think I should have an old tam 105 cover on one of my old pumps. if you want one to copy I'll have a ferret about tomorrow?
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I think I should have an old tam 105 cover on one of my old pumps. if you want one to copy I'll have a ferret about tomorrow?
Be great if we could arrange a relay for the whole pump.
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I don't think I've got a whole pump, just bits of old ones for spares, why do you want a whole pump anyway?
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Needn't be the whole pump if it's in bits, just the motor casing. It's nice to check the new box fits the motor OK. It takes many hours (well, it takes me many hours) to draw the thing, if it doesn't fit it's rather soul destroying having to start again.
As I said above, it pays to print a slice of the new box to check the fit before spending more time on it.
If it's going to be a lot of hassle, don't worry about the motor.
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Bump from previous page for Tony or James ...
Tony/James ... I've vague recollections of downloading files from the wiki being a security issue, is that right? Can it be done?
I've just spent quite a while Googling and trying things out on a wiki page but can't seem to find a way to make a file downloadable.
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I think ill be able to find you a leo pump cover - i think they are the same.
...but i thought you had a leo anyhow?
I probably have a pump not in use also.
If you check the wiki pages for a TAM 105 and a Leo, the terminal boxes are very different.
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I have one of those green Aquatech pumps that Jim used to use on his plants if you ever want the lid.
I hope the Tam 120 cover includes the wiring diagram underneath, dont want any half measures do we? ;)
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I think ill be able to find you a leo pump cover - i think they are the same.
...but i thought you had a leo anyhow?
I probably have a pump not in use also.
If you check the wiki pages for a TAM 105 and a Leo, the terminal boxes are very different.
Which makes me even more interested in you modeling the leo one ; )
I have some JGS pump housings too....
You could run your machine 24/7 for the next 6 months, and get your self enough cash to buy a tank of proper fuel - you know, like normal people buy?
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Given time, I'm happy to draft terminal boxes and other bits people think may be of value, but it would be nice to arrange for the designs to be downloadable from the wiki.
Currently the printer he go bugger up. I tried another cheap OBDII link on the Golf yesterday and seem to have cocked up or at least interfered with something that drives the printer. It appears to connect but throws a wobbler when it tries it's second run at bed leveling. Spent the whole of yesterday evening trying to sort it with no luck ... it's times like this that 3D printing isn't much fun!
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Spent the whole of yesterday evening trying to sort it with no luck ... it's times like this that 3D printing isn't much fun!
A feeling I know veeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrry well, anyway the I3 comes online tomorrow.
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Spent the whole of yesterday evening trying to sort it with no luck ... it's times like this that 3D printing isn't much fun!
A feeling I know veeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrry well, anyway the I3 comes online tomorrow.
Now, where have I heard that before?
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Julian,
I've found a tam terminal box and lid, but do you still want the pump body? as that is in the shed up the field.
If just the box/lid is ok I will post tomorrow if you PM me ya address.
The box has a screw hole broken but the broken bit is still there, if I can find some glue I'll glue it back on.
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Julian,
I've found a tam terminal box and lid, but do you still want the pump body? as that is in the shed up the field.
If just the box/lid is ok I will post tomorrow if you PM me ya address.
The box has a screw hole broken but the broken bit is still there, if I can find some glue I'll glue it back on.
That's great, Chug. I'll have a bash at working from just the plastic bits and hope I get it right, don't worry about sticking them together. I'll pm you my address.
I can copy the cover off my Leo.
Julianf, if you think there will be a demand for a JGS cover, I'll happily draft that.
Tony if you let me know what vane pump it is I'll check to see if I have the same ... I've got a couple. If not send me your cover and I'll do that too.
All assuming I can get the printer back into operation!
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Ok, Chug has very kindly sent me a TAM105 terminal box (both halves).
It's broken at the points where it bolts to the motor body, so I'll beef up these areas. As I don't have the rest of the pump/motor can someone advise if the rectangular hole to the motor needs to be as big as it is and if thickening the base and 4 bolt pillars would interfere with anything in the box?
Has anyone got any other suggestions to modify or improve the design before I make a start?
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I've prettied up the TAM 120 drawing and exported a couple of jpgs ...
(http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/7/7f/TAM_120_terminal_box_top.jpg)
(http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/2/28/TAM_120_terminal_box_bottom.jpg)
Should look quite neat on a wiki page.
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Four hour print last night produced a new cover for Frankinpump (My TAM 120) ...
(http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 1.jpg)
(http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 2.jpg)
I have to say the original design was poor and it's little wonder they break. The pillar through which the screw passes is a few millimeters clear of the motor body and very lightly attached to the rest of the box, so tightening the screw tries to tear the pillar from the box.
pictures are a no show for me???
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Work OK for me. Try pasting the URLs into your browser ...
http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 1.jpg
http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 2.jpg
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Work OK for me. Try pasting the URLs into your browser ...
http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 1.jpg
http://www.palmergroup.co.uk/Bio/Frankinhat 2.jpg
links break between Frankinhat and the number 1 and 2
may need an underscore or hypen to keep the continus link to the .JPG