Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
Biodiesel => Chemistry and process => Topic started by: Julian on September 14, 2013, 08:53:24 PM
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I've treated grotty oil this way for several years, but it's only just occurred to me that bio will behave in the same way ... Doh!
The last few batches, when I'm drying the bio in the reactor, I've turned the heater on, left the pumps off and not used the condenser. By the time the bio is up to a temperature where the condenser would be effective and in a fraction of the time, around 70-80% of the water has dropped out and can be drained off, leaving the balance to be removed via the condenser.
Far quicker and uses less energy.
I'm guessing this isn't a novel method, but I don't remember seeing it in writing before. Any one else doing this?
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My methods are completely different...well they would be wouldn't they!!!!
My oil drying is a double glyc wash.
My bio drying is via bubbling and diffusing.
Without a condensor, other methods need to be employed
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Hi!
2 days ago I dry my first 16 l of Bio. So I am a compleat noob :)
I dried my Bio just using bubbles without heating it. It look O.K. and it is all ready in my car.
The tank in a car was empty so allmost 0 liters of Dino. I have all ready made 160 km (100 miles) without a problem.
But I haven't tested bio for water.
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Hi!
2 days ago I dry my first 16 l of Bio. So I am a compleat noob :)
I dried my Bio just using bubbles without heating it. It look O.K. and it is all ready in my car.
The tank in a car was empty so allmost 0 liters of Dino. I have all ready made 160 km (100 miles) without a problem.
But I haven't tested bio for water.
It's usually better/quicker to heat the bio when dewatering. A hot pan test would give you an idea of how dry it was.