Difference between revisions of "Heat exchangers and solenoid valves"

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File:Heat3.JPG|Easily plumbed into your car heater system using existing tails or by fitting 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch hosebarbs respectivly.These are readily available from oilbits in sizes to match your heater hoses ID.
 
File:Heat3.JPG|Easily plumbed into your car heater system using existing tails or by fitting 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch hosebarbs respectivly.These are readily available from oilbits in sizes to match your heater hoses ID.
  
File:Fphe.jpg|Another FPHE
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File:Fphe.jpg|Another FPHE, slightly different shape.
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File:Z007p.jpg|Heat exchanger fitted in a landrover 110.
  
 
File:Valve12v.JPG|Tecelamit 12 volt valves.
 
File:Valve12v.JPG|Tecelamit 12 volt valves.
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File:Twd.jpg|Wiring and plumbing diagram.
  
 
File:Valve12v2.JPG|Tecelamit 12 volt valves.
 
File:Valve12v2.JPG|Tecelamit 12 volt valves.
 
File:Twd.jpg|Wiring and plumbing diagram.
 
  
 
File:bgxcad4.jpg|One of a number of ways for plumbing in a twin tank system.
 
File:bgxcad4.jpg|One of a number of ways for plumbing in a twin tank system.

Revision as of 00:07, 12 December 2010

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These are the essential parts required when building a twin-tank system.

The vehicle is started on mineral Diesel, and then the valves switch over to an auxiliary veg tank when the engine reaches full temperature - the heat exchanger is used to raise the temperature of vegetable oil before it reaches the injection pump, using engine coolant to transfer heat across the plates of the heat exchanger.

Before stopping the engine at the end of a journey, the system must be "Flushed or Purged" with mineral Diesel, making it safe to re-start ie: in the morning from a cold start few hours later. Short stops eg: 30 mins etc 99% of the time shouldnt need to purge/flush down, as the engine will still be upto optimum temperature.

Rotary-Motion 21:50, 5 December 2010 (UTC)