Toyota MR2

[Dickjotec]

Impressive, talk to Angie she has a photography degree.

On the MR. If the strainer is not easy to clean when the tank is fitted you might want to remove it and fit one that is easy to get at as they can cause problems when on bio.

[lozzzzzz]

Its completely installed again.  I have a plan though.....    If/When it causes a problem I can attach it from the fuel sender hole (can be accessed from inside the car) and put a big hole in it or get it off. 

[lozzzzzz]

Hello again.  I've made quite a bit of progress recently but haven't really had time to post about it.  Well here is a bit of an update. 

I've changed the cambelt, idlers and water pump (but was disappointed to find they were in really good condition so could have saved a load of money)


I've cut of the bits I don't need leaving just the tensioned and alternator:



Next was to sort out the horrendous throttle and EGR situation.  The crank case gas recirculation means that oil makes it into the inlet and the EGR means that soot gets in there too, the combination means an epic building up of black crud (you can see it in the photo below).  The already small inlet pipe had 8mm of caked on crap so that was cleaned out.  The EGR was welded up (using bird poo, check out that weld) and the throttle and EGR valve was binned.  In fact I went further than that and cut the elbow of the manifold completely.  (The throttle is only used when the engine is switched off, it creates an inlet manifold vacuum, just like in a petrol car.  Less gas in the cylinders means less compression and the engine spins gently to a stop, rather than the abrupt shaking you can get with older diesels.  I can live with that for more power.) 


Imagine the restriction this was giving:


This is after cutting:


I then cleaned and ported the manifold a little and used the rubber hose straight onto the manifold:


All done:




I've found a 760mm belt to drive just the alternator:


Yesterday I started messing about with the intercooler to see if I could get it to fit against the MR2s side duct.  The plan being to use a micro switch under the throttle to switch on the fan and pull air through the intercooler on full throttle. 



Its still not perfect really, I'll keep pondering this one. 

I tested to see if the throttle pedal feel was ok if I just connected up the MR2 pedal to the TDI variable resistor. 


It was great, good pressure needed to push it (it just supports the weight of your foot) and a decent amount of travel (a little less than previously but still plenty for accurate control).  So I welded a more permanent version into the under bonnet space. 


And the last thing I got done yesterday was to attach the clutch pedal switch on to the MR2 clutch pedal (as I plan to have cruise control). 


Sorry for the crap images, I was using my phone again.  I'll take a better camera next time. 

More to come

[Dickjotec]

Good progress I hope you have some heat in that workshop, I try to avoid car work this time of year. Mind you as you know I work outside.

[greasemonkey]

Cool

[lozzzzzz]

I made a bit more progress last night. 

Lots of grinding away at the old MR2 dials, trying to get the TDI dials to fit inside.  On paper that sounds like very little progress, but..  I did spend a while looking at it and figuring out how it was all going to come together.  I'm pretty sure I know how to finish the interior side of things now.  The dials are officially in (although the dead space either side of the TDI dials still needs painting black).  I'm going to have a number of switches on a panel in the spare space above the radio (its double height), including the MFA, cruise control and perhaps a switch for the little power booster thingy (resistor). 

Very pleased with progress I was too. 

Forgive the dust all over the clear plastic, I haven't cleaned anything after grinding yet:


More to come

[Dickjotec]

 

[lozzzzzz]

Right then!  A much needed update. 

I've got the dials looking how I want them to now, and they're fully wired in, and fully working   But as I was putting them in for the last time I cracked the Clear plastic (the toyota bit).  I'm a little gutted but this can be easily replaced at some point when I have more money to spend.  (you can't see it very well in the photo but the crack goes from the top down through the speedo)


The illumination adjuster now serves no purpose so I've blanked it off. 


I've reached a point where I really need to get the engine in before any other work can progress.  So I cleaned up the garage and lined the engines up to get an idea where the TDI will need to sit in the engine bay. 




Then set about making the first engine mount. 


I got these bars to the same length and flattened the ends on the lathe:


Drilled them out on the lathe:


These will mean I can use the same three bolt holes that VW intended:


Cut a plate to shape:


And welded on the engine mount:


This is ready for a trial fit on Sunday (I'm very excited), if all goes well I'll start looking at the gearbox mount and add some bracing to this mount.

It is with regret that I'm altering the budget of this project, I'm now having to reduce costs as much as possible.  This mainly means it'll be on the rather nasty 14" wheels for a bit (the gearing will be 5% down, i.e. more revs for the same speed) and the engine tuning will be in the form of decat, decoke and fit the +35hp "chip" (resistor).  it should still match the brothers fabia VRS though

More to come

[Dickjotec]

Going well. What's this +35hp tweek?

[lozzzzzz]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Performance-Chip-Tuning-Box-SKODA-Octavia-SEAT-Leon-1-9-TDI-35-BHP-90-110-BHP-/190961556659?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AOctavia&hash=item2c76321cb3

That's the one I've got. 

I think it interrupts the signal to the ECU from the pump to feedback how much fuel is going in.  The ECU thinks less, so ups the fueling. 

I think this will upset the MPG reading though, so I'm going to wire mine in one a switch so I can turn it off to measure MPG. 

[Tony]

That's interesting, it must fiddle with the quantity adjuster feedback signal.  The quantity adjuster itself usually has a relatively low frequency (but high power) PWM signal driving a coil that rotates a spindle against a spring.  The lower end of the spindle has an offset pin that engages in a hole in the top of the control sleeve in order to slide it up and down the high pressure piston.  But it also has an electromechanical feedback system to detect how far the spindle has rotated, which has two coils, one fed with a high frequency signal and one as a pickup.  The spindle has an arm which acts to change the flux connectivity between the signal and pickup so the ECU can figure out how far the arm has moved.  So I often wondered how hard it would be to break into this feedback loop for the purpose of changing the fuelling.

On the Largo I took a different approach and modified the fuel temperature sensor (another part of the VP37 bit at the top of the pump) to over-report fuel temp.  The ECU compensates by injecting more fuel (as it assumes fuel viscosity reduction results in delivery quantity reduced from the high pressure plunger stroke, due to machining tolerances and increased leakage past the piston).

[lozzzzzz]

Interesting.  I must confess that I know very little about how a pump works really, I've always done petrol cars before this.  But I follow what you're saying.  I should take a pump apart one day

[Rossey]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Performance-Chip-Tuning-Box-SKODA-Octavia-SEAT-Leon-1-9-TDI-35-BHP-90-110-BHP-/190961556659?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AOctavia&hash=item2c76321cb3

That's the one I've got. 

I think it interrupts the signal to the ECU from the pump to feedback how much fuel is going in.  The ECU thinks less, so ups the fueling. 

I think this will upset the MPG reading though, so I'm going to wire mine in one a switch so I can turn it off to measure MPG.

Send it back, you can do the same for a quid!
Look up evry mod.

You can also fit a 3 bar map sensor and that'll give more boost.
If you want a tuning box, look up rover Ron vp box.
I've got one on my volvo and it'll wheel spin in third!

[Dickjotec]

Impressive reading never come across it before. More research to be done.

[lozzzzzz]

I got the engine in this morning.  Very excited about that

Its only attached by one engine mount and mostly hanging on the crane, but it was a great success in terms of seeing how well it fits and checking where things might go:



There is loads of room behind, I was worried about this area:


Then I took it back out and finished off the engine mount I had tacked on:


I drilled out one of the gearbox bolts that snapped off in the TDI gearbox (what a horrible job!)


And began making the gearbox mount:


That's all for now

More to come