Toyota MR2

[Tony]

I guess that's what makes an experienced brewer, recognising how to correct every problem that can occur along the way?

Sounds like you figured that one out on your own though

[lozzzzzz]

Oooo, Nice to be described as an experienced brewer, I think I've got a lot to learn though

I still feel very smug about the saving I'm making.  to travel so fast on someone elses waste product is awesome

[Head Womble]

I doubt any of us "experienced brewer's" think we know it all, well maybe one but we all know who that is.

Anyway what I'm trying to say is you never stop learning in this game.

[lozzzzzz]

Its amazing how long I've been telling people that "it's ready for MOT", yet I've spent another day working on it  

I borrow VAG-Com from Dick,  Many thanks Dick.  I timed the injection pump this morning.  Got it well within the limits, but on the advanced side (good for Bio). 


Checked on the error codes and had a good go at trying to stop the heater light from flashing (to no avail ).  The EGR and throttle valve fault I'm not bothered about, they're not causing the heater light to flash.  The ABS fault is inevitable as the ABS is still in the Seat Toledo (and doesn't work on wireless)  but the brake implausibility thing is very annoying.  I don't think I'll be able to fix it really so I'll get the black tape out and cover it up

I also activated the cruise control  and am looking forward to trying that. 


Found that the flexi joint in the exhaust is leaking oil, this is annoying firstly because I thought I'd got away with it, but it looks like I'll have to buy another one, but more to the point what the hell is oil doing in the exhaust!!!!!  I guess the turbo might be tired, or perhaps this is normal???  (it has been idling for about 4 hours)    After the injection timing didn't cure the smoke I tried ragging the hell out of it up and down the drive to get it nice and hot and it did stop smoking        I'll have to see about the turbo when its on the road (watch for smoke and oil consumption). 


I vacuum'd, cleaned and polished the paintwork with G10 finishing compound and normal car polish for hours to get rid of these very annoying stains, they did not want to shift!


The polishing is by no means finished, but here is a teaser


More to come

[Dickjotec]

Very good. That break peddle problem is the break light switch. You should be able to fix it by just putting a switch on the appropriate pins. What it recognises I have no idea as, presumably, when the peddle is up and switch is off there is no continuity. Perhaps it checks the resistance of the two break light bulbs as I believe it is also activated by a failed bulb, if this is the case an appropriate resistor may do it?
Body looks well from the front now, you must be pleased.

[Tony]

Ooh, shiny

Who knows with oil in the exhaust, it's been sat for ages.  I wouldn't worry unduely unless that continues after it has been driven around properly for a bit and still does it.  Give them turbo seals a chance to behave themselves

[Dickjotec]

I have a spare turbo I have reconed you can try once it is on the road if the problem persists. Though it could be a good excuse to upgrade?

[lozzzzzz]

Thanks both  

The pedal thing is a tricky one.  It seems to work like this......

Brake pedal switch has 4 mins (2 switches, they are separate) and the clutch switch has 2 pins.  There is a loop that goes from 12v to the ECU via the clutch switch then the brakes switch.  If the pedals are left un-pushed this feeds to the ECU stays 12v.  When either pedal is pushed it opens one of the switches and the ECU loses the 12v signal.  I assume, this is for cancelling the cruise control. 

The other switch on the brake is for the lights.  When the pedal is left alone it is off, when you push it the switch closes and 12v goes to the lights. 


There are a lots of theories going through my head about what could be causing it.  I've cut through one of the wires going to the brake light switch, so when either pedal is pushed the ECU only sees a cruise cancel signal, just as it would when the clutch is pushed. 

I reset the fault code and the light came back on       

I think Dick is right and its just a bulb failure thing. 

Black tape over the flashing light will cure it. 

[lozzzzzz]

Right then, a very busy month at work is over, I have booked the MOT for Saturday, then off into Whales camping  

if it fails then we're in the pug 106   no pressure then!

After literally months of considering the options (from time to time), the wheels are now shod in 205 50 16, and 225 50 16 at the rear.  All four are on Honda accord 16" 7J wheels. 


The PCD is the same as the Toyota but the offset and center bore are different.  I needed a 10mm spacer to put the wheels in the right place.  I went with 20mm ish on the rear though as the wheels did used to look very "inboard".  I went with hubcentric on the rear as 20mm is a little long to be relying on the studs for location.    This meant I needed new longer wheel studs.  63mm was the longest I could get.  I shortened one set by 6mm for the front and left the rears are 63mm long. 


I used a hammer to knock out the old-uns, and a Toyota wheel nut in a socket top pull the new studs in.


Unfortunately I snapped one of the studs   so I'm hoping a replacement arrives before Saturday. 

Then the brakes were put back on and the spacer fitted. 


Fronts done, just the rears to go (the front had just been jacked up at this point so is a little high). 


All done! and once again the dog features in the photo   The reason for changing the wheels was to get the right overall diameter, to give the diesel engine the long gears it had in the Toledo, this means the speedo will read correctly and engine won't be revving to much on the motorway, it is a diesel after all.  I didn't want the car to look too bling, slammed on 24" wheels   but I admit I wanted it to look a little smarter than it does on those 14" Toyota wheels.  So I think 16" OEM Honda was a good compromise. 


I've still got to replace that busted stud on Saturday morning, try and adjust the rear tracking slightly and give it a quick wash then its fingers crossed that a good thrashing and a tank of real diesel cleans up the exhaust fumes   oh and hopefully nothing else is wrong

More to come

[Chug]

I'll cross me fingers for ya on Saturday Loz, mind you a fail might be better than having teething probs whilst on ya hols

[Dickjotec]

Looking very good, as above fingers crossed for the MOT.

[dgs]

 Loz,You've made a very nice job of that, I'm impressed.

[oakwoodtv]

You want a tank of bio for the MOT emissions will be lower on bio
than diesel.

[lozzzzzz]

Thanks all, I'll keep you posted  

Oakwoodtv,

The car is old enough for a "visual check" only.  The Toledo drove up from Exeter without smoking at all, then I removed the engine put it in the MR2, changed the cambelt (and timed it fully and correctly), and ran it on bio. 

I'll be working through a list of things to try and see why it smokes.  The first and most obvious is to try normal diesel as I know it ran ok before.  Of course I'm hoping its not that as I fully intend to run it on bio.  But if it smokes less for the MOT then  

Next I'll see if an injector is blocked/dripping, then perhaps the turbo seals have failed etc. 

But for now its the easy stuff, a thrashing to the MOT station and a tank of diesel. 

In usual Loz fashion I'm altering two things here in a non scientific way, but I just want the best chance of getting it through the MOT, I'll do science later

[lozzzzzz]

The smoke cleared on the way to the MOT station i think it must have been oil in the exhaust (bought from ebay). The brakes cleaned up and passed ok and i have had an absolutely awesome day driving through Wales with her indoors, in Mr Two we are now canping ready for more MR2 TDI fun tomorrow

More to come