Author Topic: FAO Knighty  (Read 14846 times)

Offline knighty

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #45 on: September 09, 2014, 09:54:15 PM »
quick run down of how it's wired up....

you've got your 2 main contactors at the top right, the top one is normal power, the bottom one is night time power

they're controlled by the 2 on/off switches on the front panel
there negative feed comes through the big emergency stop switch on the front

the extra contacts on top of them are there so you can't power both contactors at the same time, for one to powered on, the other must be off

the power coming out of both of those (on there left) is joined together, and then there's 3 wires running to the lower (white) contacotrs - the bottom 3 control your heaters (these are controlled by the switches on the front panels, which get their power from the PIDs)

power also feeds to the switches for your pumps, which are controlled directly by the switches on the front panel

the top white contactor is for the timer, so you can hit the dewater button on E7 power, it'll dewater for X amount of time then shut off

(looking harder at it, it *looks* like the little black wire which came loose is in the right place

the green relay is the timer (the timer settings are ontop of it... iirc it's set for 3 hours, but its just a little screw to turn to change it)

under that is the main negative contactor, you mains incoming negatives should be connected directly into this - because thats where the heater negatives are connected to

(I'm sure there was space here for the 2 main negatives to feed right in... I was pretty cautious about that in case you ever turned all 3 heaters on at once

I powered it all up, and tested everything when I finished it, and then again before I brought it to the BBB and it all worked as it should




BUT.... you need to wire the 2 x positive feeds into the other side of the contactors - it is a bit tight... but I got little short wires in there ok, so the nice long main feed wires should be fine

the negatives defenatly need to be done better... the pumps and everything else are only low power, follow the 3 x heater wires (orange) and see where there negatives go, they need a good solid negative
(negatives are overlooked a lot of the time)

Offline K.H

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #46 on: September 09, 2014, 10:21:51 PM »
I didnt get chance to do anything today, i think tomorrow i will put it back to how it was then do it myself following your instructions and post pics as i go, i wont be putting it live before its been okayed

Offline knighty

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #47 on: September 09, 2014, 11:53:10 PM »
there's very very little change of anything going bang... worst case is something won't work properly... and we can easy sort that out from pics :-)

Offline K.H

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #48 on: September 12, 2014, 06:25:18 PM »
Well ive had a go myself, does this look ok?
i had to use a block connector on one negative to extend it to reach the negative connection block















« Last Edit: September 12, 2014, 06:27:08 PM by K.H »

Offline knighty

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #49 on: September 12, 2014, 09:47:55 PM »
looks good to me

pull out that little black wire that came out, tape the end up and power it up... see what doesn't work and then we'll know what that wire was for :-)

Offline K.H

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #50 on: September 12, 2014, 09:59:46 PM »
Will do  :)

Offline K.H

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #51 on: September 13, 2014, 09:45:49 PM »
Ive removed and taped the wire, but i suppose i had better connect up the two PID,s and Pressure switch before i turn it on, so i might be a few days  ;D
BTW the two probe wires to each PID does it matter which way round they go?

Offline Julian

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #52 on: September 13, 2014, 10:45:03 PM »
BTW the two probe wires to each PID does it matter which way round they go?

Yes, if they are thermocouples, you'll have + and - .  You won't do any damage connecting a thermocouple round the wrong way.  If you get a plausible reading they're the right way round.  If the wires have the correct plugs going to a socket, there's only one way it'll fit ... the pins are different sizes.

Coincidence ... I'm playing with a PID right now!
Used Cooking Oil Collection website ... http://www.surreyusedcookingoilcollection.palmergroup.co.uk

Offline K.H

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #53 on: September 13, 2014, 11:08:16 PM »
No pins just wires, on one PID they go to 7 and 8, other 11 and 12, no + or - shown, so looks like i will have to do as you say, trial and error

 
BTW the two probe wires to each PID does it matter which way round they go?

Yes, if they are thermocouples, you'll have + and - .  You won't do any damage connecting a thermocouple round the wrong way.  If you get a plausible reading they're the right way round.  If the wires have the correct plugs going to a socket, there's only one way it'll fit ... the pins are different sizes.

Coincidence ... I'm playing with a PID right now!

Offline K.H

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #54 on: September 15, 2014, 10:09:38 PM »
If i want to bypass the cut out switch for the time being is it just a case of leaving alone?

Offline knighty

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #55 on: September 15, 2014, 11:00:15 PM »
which cut out switch ? the big main one ?

just ignore it... it only does anything when you push it in :-)

Offline GedsJeep

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #56 on: September 15, 2014, 11:32:53 PM »
forgive my ignorance....

what does all that lot do?
450,000 miles plus on 100% WVO

Offline Jamesrl

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #57 on: September 15, 2014, 11:39:50 PM »
forgive my ignorance....

what does all that lot do?

It's just to make his toast in the morning.

Offline GedsJeep

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #58 on: September 16, 2014, 01:19:55 AM »
cant he afford staff?
450,000 miles plus on 100% WVO

Offline Jamesrl

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Re: FAO Knighty
« Reply #59 on: September 16, 2014, 10:00:27 AM »
cant he afford staff?

Yeh, he's got RM but he's useless at toat.