Author Topic: Drying Biodiesel. (Read 23698 times)

dgs · « **Reply #45 on:** July 03, 2016, 09:53:19 PM »

Not all, but most samples I test that have been venturi dried are high in water (5 to 800ppm) I think the answer would be to pull the incoming air through silica gel.

julesandtash · « **Reply #46 on:** July 03, 2016, 10:06:30 PM »

Mine came out at 300ppm water when dgs tested it yesterday which i was very pleased with

dgs · « **Reply #47 on:** July 03, 2016, 10:26:42 PM »

Yours was one of the few exceptions to the rule, Jules. You will have to tell others who dry this way your secret.

julesandtash · « **Reply #48 on:** July 03, 2016, 10:28:42 PM »

Warm clean Cornish air. Maybe the salt in the air drops the moisture level?

Julian · « **Reply #49 on:** July 04, 2016, 01:48:07 AM »

Quote from: julesandtash on July 03, 2016, 10:28:42 PM

Maybe the salt in the air drops the moisture level?

That's an interesting thought ... any one tried adding salt to bio to dry it?

dgs · « **Reply #50 on:** July 04, 2016, 01:55:23 PM »

I don't know about the salt but if Jules r/h is low it will certainly help.

terryecosse · « **Reply #51 on:** November 06, 2018, 07:16:40 PM »

I use a lot of salt for my emulsions , I thought I would be better after 9 years

dgs · « **Reply #52 on:** November 06, 2018, 10:05:23 PM »

At least it's better than using acid.

If you are getting emulsions from a slight underreaction it is due to monoglycerides. if the emulsion is from an overreaction then it is due to soap.

dgs · « **Reply #53 on:** November 07, 2018, 12:48:52 PM »

You have to get your bio into the 'Goldilocks' zone at the end of your reaction. Then after de-mething or 5% prewash there will be no emulsion when you water wash.

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