Frost on the screen - hello winter

[julianf]

Mark,

You know about the gauze on the genuine pumps, right?  Small screw on the top, and the housing comes apart, and theres a gauze filter in there.

I dont think all the aftermarket have them, but, IIRC, the gauze blocking caused Jules some entertainment on his trip back from france.

[GedsJeep]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060778.m570.l1311.R1.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.X12v+dia&_nkw=12v+diaphragm+pump&_sacat=0

And what good to me is a water pump.

probably more use than your current lift pump.....

i have used one of them as a lift pump for two years.a few others on here have fitted them too.

thats what good they are

yer welcome.....

[therecklessengineer]

I cut a 'failed' lift pump open once.

I found it to be perfect inside, but a non-serviceable gauze filter was on the inlet. Had I a 'rock catcher' in-line (sausage type I think some call them) it would have saved the lift pump.

[Tony]

I've also had a lift pump block its inlet.  I reversed polarity across it and it blow the crap out but made some unhappy noises doing it (I guess the brushes didn't like going backward across a commutator?).  Seemed to survive the experience though!

[Head Womble]

Mark,

You know about the gauze on the genuine pumps, right?  Small screw on the top, and the housing comes apart, and theres a gauze filter in there.

I dont think all the aftermarket have them, but, IIRC, the gauze blocking caused Jules some entertainment on his trip back from france.

The gauze filter was clean (mostly), it's was a Delfi unit and the new one is also Delfi.

[Head Womble]

Did the lift pump on mine only last week.  It had started dripping, but, what i overlooked, was it was dripping on the inside as well as the outside (engine oil level rose a fair bit).


And then this week's chore is a new stop solenoid, as its sticking again (engine runs on for a few seconds after ignition off).

I had exactly the same issue last winter (or was it the winter before?) and changing the solenoid sorted it.

Maybe ill find an OEM part this time!

Tonight I removed my stop solenoid and took the plunger out to see if that was my problem as after changing the lift pump it still would not run.
I've cleaned the sedimenter out also (full of crap and water).
I'll be replacing the IP over the weekend as I have fuel getting to it and out of the return pipe, but nothing to the injectors.

[GedsJeep]

so had the lift pump failed as well as the IP, or was it just the ip?

[Julian]

Mark, how many wires on the stop solenoid?  If more than one it can cause all sorts of problems.  They seem to be coded to the car.

Great advise from Jules ... smash a multi-wire solenoid with a hammer to get to the old type single wire solenoid inside.  Even then I think I had to hot wire it and had problems with something else, possibly the glow plugs had to be hot wired too.

[Head Womble]

so had the lift pump failed as well as the IP, or was it just the ip?

Lift pump had failed but that was not what was stopping the engine from running, the IP is not delivering fuel to the injectors even with the solenoid plunger removed.

[Head Womble]

Mark, how many wires on the stop solenoid?  If more than one it can cause all sorts of problems.  They seem to be coded to the car.

Great advise from Jules ... smash a multi-wire solenoid with a hammer to get to the old type single wire solenoid inside.  Even then I think I had to hot wire it and had problems with something else, possibly the glow plugs had to be hot wired too.

It's the single wire type.
I have just got back home with the replacement IP and that to is a single wire (apart from the EGR control unit that will be removed anyway).

[Julian]

Should be straight forward in that respect then.

[julesandtash]

Mark, that sedimenter was clean when I sold it to you - what on earth have you been running on 

It is pretty rare for a Bosch VE to die without warning like that - must be something pretty bad (or clogged inlet banjo - but I assume that is OK)

[Head Womble]

It's alive again.

Took about 2 1/2hrs to swap the pump and once primed she fired up first turn.
Running well if not down on power as the pump has not been tweaked, yet.

Thanks for the lone of the pump tool Julian, it made the job much easier.

Inlet banjo was clean, I think the gunk in the sedimenter  maybe down to my off roading, as the tank breather is only 60cm off the ground, not good for deep(ish) water, this maybe what killed the pump but I'll pull it apart and see what the problem is, when I get time.

[julesandtash]

If you have been playing in deep muddy water, you may want to check the oil in your front and rear diffs. If you have sucked any water in to them then the contents will look like dark mayonnaise and the teeth with not like you for it.
Serious off roaders link all the breathers into a manifold then take the breather pipe from that up the side of the snorkel and therefore avoid any chance of mud and water getting in.

You can even get a breather which replaces that plate you would have accessed the injection pump drive sprocket through and allows the timing housing to breath remotely (assuming the wading plugs are in)

[Head Womble]

The front diff and I assume the rear diff have extended breathers up into the bulkhead (although I suspect the front one is blocked as it was under slight pressure when I removed one of the rubber end caps when the axle was hot).

As it has A/C the timing cover is the A/C belt tensioner, not sure if there's a breather kit for A/C cars.

I'm not sure where the tank breather is, something I need to look into.

Car someone split this thread as it's gone well off topic.