Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
General => Chatter => Topic started by: Rotary-Motion on December 11, 2012, 08:22:16 PM
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well im going to bang my head against a brick wall make me feel better.
conversation with china goes like this:
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Dear easebon,hello, if 12volt why is there 3 wires?thank you- comp-uk
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Dear comp-uk,Hi, thanks for your message. One is positive, one is negative, and the other one you can connect or ignore it. Thanks.Any further questions, please feel free to contact me. Thanks. Have a nice day!Yours SincerelyLilyCustomer Service Department- easebon
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Dear easebon,hithank you for that but what is this third wire for? what does it do?thank you...- comp-uk
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Dear comp-uk,Hi, thanks for your message. You can connect the third wire or ignore it. Thanks.Have a nice day!Yours SincerelyLilyCustomer Service Department- easebon
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grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/White-36LED-DC-12V-Car-Vehicle-Dome-Roof-Ceiling-Interior-Light-Lamp-Silver-EA-/00/s/NTg1WDU4NQ==/$(KGrHqR,!oQFCr6w))fLBQu,8mIqeQ~~60_12.JPG)
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Ha ha ha!
Is it an interior light for a vehicle? I think the the two wires are for a simple on/off switch, and the third wire is the control from the doors. Could be wrong though.
Funny thing is the bottom pic only shows two wires.
I'd say either connect the third wire up, or ignore it.:P
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Ha ha ha!
Is it an interior light for a vehicle? I think the the two wires are for a simple on/off switch, and the third wire is the control from the doors. Could be wrong though.
Funny thing is the bottom pic only shows two wires.
I'd say either connect the third wire up, or ignore it.:P
;D ;D ;D
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Ah ... I know what the problem is ............... you were talking to Lily ... you need Nancy, now there's a girl who knows her lights.
If you don't mind me asking, how much were they? They might do for under cabinet lights in my nearly finished kitchen.
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Looks obvious to me ! ::)
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Dear Lily, I have connected the third wire to 240VAC as advised. How do I put the smoke back in?
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Ha ha ha!
Is it an interior light for a vehicle? I think the the two wires are for a simple on/off switch, and the third wire is the control from the doors. Could be wrong though.
Funny thing is the bottom pic only shows two wires.
I'd say either connect the third wire up, or ignore it.:P
Which bottom pic is it you are looking at with only 2 wires ? out of the 2 bottom pics I can see, one has no wires and the other has three !
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Ah ... I know what the problem is ............... you were talking to Lily ... you need Nancy, now there's a girl who knows her lights.
If you don't mind me asking, how much were they? They might do for under cabinet lights in my nearly finished kitchen.
if you get nancy she will tell you the item should be fitted by a competent electrician. or just connect it ...or ignore it. under cabinet lights? have a look at led tape lights. much better and you can decide how many to use .
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Ah ... I know what the problem is ............... you were talking to Lily ... you need Nancy, now there's a girl who knows her lights.
If you don't mind me asking, how much were they? They might do for under cabinet lights in my nearly finished kitchen.
if you get nancy she will tell you the item should be fitted by a competent electrician. or just connect it ...or ignore it. under cabinet lights? have a look at led tape lights. much better and you can decide how many to use .
Already doing so, I should have 10 metres delivered tomorrow. Never played with them before, so I was just wondering how bright they will be. These may be a viable alternative. Also want up lighting on top of the cabinets which will be on most of the time, so LEDs of one description or another seem to fit the bill.
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Daisy chaining? Remote switching? 24volt? 3phase???????
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howtf did the smileys get on there? ok, 6q marks, ?????? ok, now previewed, still six q marks
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Ah ... I know what the problem is ............... you were talking to Lily ... you need Nancy, now there's a girl who knows her lights.
If you don't mind me asking, how much were they? They might do for under cabinet lights in my nearly finished kitchen.
if you get nancy she will tell you the item should be fitted by a competent electrician. or just connect it ...or ignore it. under cabinet lights? have a look at led tape lights. much better and you can decide how many to use .
Already doing so, I should have 10 metres delivered tomorrow. Never played with them before, so I was just wondering how bright they will be. These may be a viable alternative. Also want up lighting on top of the cabinets which will be on most of the time, so LEDs of one description or another seem to fit the bill.
julesandtash has some and pionted me towards some, the brightness is the 5050 smd or something, the ones jules has in a tape round his caravan awning are very very bright, im also looking at the remote control version with RGB colours for mood lighting and 6 presets for predifined light changeing sequence for disco/party in the van :), jules has these also and very good.
julian which did you buy?
also not quite got my head round the cutting of the stuff ??? goes in 3's from what i can work out or multiple of 3's to get a defined length, BUT! they look like they only come with 1x 12v plug (can buy packs of 4 sockets) to add more i think, BUT! how do you get plugs and if you can how do you solder them on after cutting a strip? the plug looked moulded on to keep waterproof (some versions). some arnt waterproof.
if you find this out julian please share back here.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271092636348?var=570123212047&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/5M-12V-IP65-Waterproof-300-LED-Strip-Light-3528-5050-SMD-String-Ribbon-Tape-Roll-/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/$(KGrHqV,!okFBLwSdozfBQjpy,eoRg~~60_12.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/5M-12V-IP65-Waterproof-300-LED-Strip-Light-3528-5050-SMD-String-Ribbon-Tape-Roll-/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/$(KGrHqJHJE0FB5Z6yOR8BQjpy7,cb!~~60_12.JPG)
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Looks obvious to me ! ::)
and to me but going by uk law of colour coding, which we are talking china s0 could be anything, and it doesnt look metal units to me just plastic
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Cutting the tape is easy Paul - there are sets of solder pads (copper) at every cut point.
Just cut through the tape at that point, scrape away the silicon covering (if you have the silicon covered IP65 tape, then solder wires onto the copper pads. For the normal white tape there are just two. For the RGB tape there are four.
A piece of heatshrink slid over the wires and the end of the tape and it's job done. I did loads like that in the caravan.
5050 chips (ie 5mm square) are very bright as you have seen. The smaller chips are nothing like as good.
I will shortly be buying a couple of reels to light the workshop.
The best bit is that with a 12V battery and float charger, you have an automatic battery backed up lighting system.
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Turns out connecting that third wire launches a missile in North Korea!
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Paul ... that's exactly what I've bought ....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130815596425&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:3160
I'm currently in an amusing "best offer bidding war" with another supplier for cable and connectors ... we're down to haggling over a few pence! I'm just being bloody minded, but I can't see it's worth the effort on the sellers part!
Once the strips arrive I'll probably try Jules's method of hard wiring using standard cable. If that works ok, I'll not bother with the connectors.
I've assumed that cutting is exactly as Jules describes. If, when I get them, I can add any further info I'll willingly share.
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Cutting the tape is easy Paul - there are sets of solder pads (copper) at every cut point.
Just cut through the tape at that point, scrape away the silicon covering (if you have the silicon covered IP65 tape, then solder wires onto the copper pads. For the normal white tape there are just two. For the RGB tape there are four.
A piece of heatshrink slid over the wires and the end of the tape and it's job done. I did loads like that in the caravan.
5050 chips (ie 5mm square) are very bright as you have seen. The smaller chips are nothing like as good.
I will shortly be buying a couple of reels to light the workshop.
The best bit is that with a 12V battery and float charger, you have an automatic battery backed up lighting system.
ok, wait for it, here comes the big question, what are the four wires for with the RGB strip?
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Paul ... that's exactly what I've bought ....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130815596425&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:3160
I'm currently in an amusing "best offer bidding war" with another supplier for cable and connectors ... we're down to haggling over a few pence! I'm just being bloody minded, but I can't see it's worth the effort on the sellers part!
Once the strips arrive I'll probably try Jules's method of hard wiring using standard cable. If that works ok, I'll not bother with the connectors.
I've assumed that cutting is exactly as Jules describes. If, when I get them, I can add any further info I'll willingly share.
are you buying a certain cable?
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One for ground/negative, and one for each colour of led, red/green/blue
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One for ground/negative, and one for each colour of led, red/green/blue
jion all 3 to get white?
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Close, in fact, if I remember right, it is one common 12v supply and three grounds, one for each colour (red green and blue).
As said joining all three will give white. The controller has some electronics that control the current through each colour to get the various colour combinations.
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Close, in fact, if I remember right, it is one common 12v supply and three grounds, one for each colour (red green and blue).
As said joining all three will give white. The controller has some electronics that control the current through each colour to get the various colour combinations.
and the controller is fitted in each 3 part cut section?
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I cut my RGB tape into two lengths for the caravan then connected the two in parallel (ie common to common, red to red, green to green and blue to blue. Then I connected the output of the controller to the commoned tapes.
The controller is designed to handle the current demand of the whole strip so it doesn't matter whether the strip is all in one long length, lots of short lengths in series with wires between the lengths or a number of shorter strips in parallel.
Just dont try running more than one full (5 metre) tape from one controller though as the current will be far higher and probably more than the controller can handle.
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Just dont try running more than one full (5 metre) tape from one controller though as the current will be far higher and probably more than the controller can handle.
Oops! Just did that last night but it seems fine, ran all evening without problem.
Very impressed with this kit, great value for money.
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Just dont try running more than one full (5 metre) tape from one controller though as the current will be far higher and probably more than the controller can handle.
Oops! Just did that last night but it seems fine, ran all evening without problem.
Very impressed with this kit, great value for money.
im off to buy one 8) for the van mood lighting
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Paul ... that's exactly what I've bought ....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130815596425&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:3160
I'm currently in an amusing "best offer bidding war" with another supplier for cable and connectors ... we're down to haggling over a few pence! I'm just being bloody minded, but I can't see it's worth the effort on the sellers part!
Once the strips arrive I'll probably try Jules's method of hard wiring using standard cable. If that works ok, I'll not bother with the connectors.
I've assumed that cutting is exactly as Jules describes. If, when I get them, I can add any further info I'll willingly share.
can i not use the 240 adaptor and use 12volt only julian? and will the remote still work? as i cant work out the setup?
(http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7389/ledlights.png)
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make your house or passion wagon beat/flash to the music, disco styley
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Music-Audio-Sound-Driver-RGB-x3-Strip-Light-LED-Controller-12V-60W-IR-Remote-/350666231593?_trksid=p5713.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333005%26algo%3DRIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25%26meid%3D4125255420902505538%26pid%3D100041%26prg%3D1010%26rk%3D4%26sd%3D110960420795%26
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Music-Audio-Sound-Driver-RGB-x3-Strip-Light-LED-Controller-12V-60W-IR-Remote-/00/s/NDEyWDU0OA==/$(KGrHqR,!lgE9rN)(vgOBPfFojsdig~~60_3.JPG)
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Paul ... that's exactly what I've bought ....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130815596425&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:GB:3160
I'm currently in an amusing "best offer bidding war" with another supplier for cable and connectors ... we're down to haggling over a few pence! I'm just being bloody minded, but I can't see it's worth the effort on the sellers part!
Once the strips arrive I'll probably try Jules's method of hard wiring using standard cable. If that works ok, I'll not bother with the connectors.
I've assumed that cutting is exactly as Jules describes. If, when I get them, I can add any further info I'll willingly share.
can i not use the 240 adaptor and use 12volt only julian? and will the remote still work? as i cant work out the setup?
(http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7389/ledlights.png)
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Oh, I should have said, the IR sensor should ideally be in line of sight of the dudder, but they can work using reflected light. Having the LEDs set on red seem to reduce the effectiveness of the dudder ... I guess because that colour contains more IR than the other colours.
I'll not go down the music route ... can't imagine it would produce much of an effect driven by Radio 4! But if you want to fit that, it looks like it would replace the white controller in the description above.
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If you are going to buy on ebay ... check the prices very carefully. Most of the "UK" items seem to be drop shipped out of Manchester and set ups like the picture can range from about 16 quid up to 30 odd.
I'm now looking for 2 off 5m of 5050 white strip, that ranges from 12 to 24 quid.
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they work just as well in series for 24v as well. have 2 strips around 2 foot long in the coach running straight off the battery bank.
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Sorry Paul (or whoever you are this week!), somehow missed pasting my reply in above ... doh!
It wires up as shown in the photo. Black box is the transformer. It plugs into 230v ac and converts to 12v dc. Black wire from the transformer supplies 12v dc to the controller which is the white box. The controller has a white wire which connects to the LED strip (they supply a little adapter because both plugs are female for some reason). The other white wire from the controller (the one with a black blob on the end in the photo) is the Infra Red sensor which receives the IR signal from the remote. Ideally it needs to be in line of sight of the remote, but it will work on reflected IR, just not as reliably.
To run from a car, all you have to do is discard the transformer. Both in the picture and the set I have, have a "cylindrical blob" in the 12v wire from the transformer. I have no idea what this is or what it does. Perhaps some one who knows their electronics might offer an answer, but I'd suggest you include it in your system, so cut the 12v dc wire between the transformer and the cylindrical blob. You then need to work out the polarity, so with a multi meter, check the circuit between the centre pin on the 12v plug which goes into the controller and where you cut the wire ... that will be your positive feed, the other will obviously be negative. Wire up via an 8 or 10 amp fuse and you should be good to go.
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Hi, I think you will find that the little round blob is a small inductor , a few turns of wire, its basically an intertference prevention to prevent high frequency interference gettingto/from the controller. Its the same thing you find on the power lead to a laptop.
Cheers
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Many thanks for that. So he's best off including it in the supply lead then.
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Hi, I would leave it in the wiring, there's lots of things that generate radio frequency noise, laptop supplies use invertor,switch mode to get the 19volts or whatever your l/top needs, the controller for the led's probably uses a fast square wave clock to do the dimming/switching for the led's, you may have heard interference on your hj-fi system from lamp dimmers, its the same sort of thing.
If or when you cut the wires from your power supply, bare the wires, chech them with a voltmeter for polarity then put a bit of tape on positive wire so you know which one is +ve.
cheers
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I dont have any toroids (that's what the black blob is) in the 12V supply cable to mine in the caravan and it works fine.
The kit I bought was for 12V DC supply only - it did not come with a mains adaptor (which made it cheaper and, as I was putting it in the caravan, I didn't need the adaptor anyway)