Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
Biodiesel => Biodiesel equipment => Topic started by: neisel on October 07, 2018, 11:33:42 AM
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The immersion heating element in my processor stopped working the other day so I started looking for a replacement. The old one is 2¼" across the bit that screws into the processor (which has a 2¼" ID hole) & 14" long.
On ebay I found this which seemed to fit the bill - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-TESLA-TIH645-14-3KW-Immersion-Heater-Element-Dual-Safety-Thermostat/223171126778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 . A TIH 645 is shown as 2¼" on Tesla's info pages - http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/pa_1936613.pdf
When the element arrived it was too big, measuring 2½" across the bit that screws into the machine.
Went down to Screwfix where they had told me this - https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-copper-immersion-heater-element-14/40634 - was 2¼". It's not, it's 2½" I discovered upon examining it.
This ebay seller https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INCOLOY-HARD-WATER-IMMERSION-HEATER-STAT-HOT-WATER-11-14-18-23-27-30/371559792971?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=640579827678&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 says his element is 2¼" but confusingly shows sizes as "65mm - 2 1/4 " Thread". I'm waiting to hear back from him if it is actually 2¼ across.
Now I'll admit I know SFA about plumbing & plumbing measurements. I'm thinking I must be misdescribing the measurements or measuring the wrong bit of my old, broken element because it surely can't be that hard to find a 2¼" x 14" immersion heater element can it?
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BSP threads are a little confusing in that the named size is not the diameter of the thread.
Stated sizes are based on the internal diameter of standard steel pipe so the thread outside diameter will always be bigger than the stated size.
I think 2¼" is the standard immersion heater size (although I'm sure there are odd balls) and the OD of that thread should be 65.7mm. Best bet would be to check the new heater in the tank.
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those 2 1/4 inch elements are usually fitted to stainless pressure tanks you could try heatre sadia who make them they may sell one at great cost compered with the 2 1/2 standard ones.
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I think you need a 2"bsp which comes out close to the size you say you have measured, the only elements in that size I have seen are industrial units but may be wrong on both counts ! ! !
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Anybody know if in the world of plumbing there exists such a thing as a converter? Something 2¼" that screws in to the machine with a 2½" bit on the outside I could screw my new element into?
Failing that, anyone got a spare 2" x 14" 3kw element they could bear to part with. Used is fine.
TIA
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Toolstation do a mechanical 2¼2 flange for £9 … https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p38614?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4O3MltH03QIVC53tCh08mwHfEAYYBCABEgLeVvD_BwE
There is a cheaper one, but the above may be better for what I have in mind … if you want to grab the tool station flange and drop in with your damaged heater when you're next passing, I'll have a bash at turning and soldering the two together. Absolutely no promises that it will work as you are trying to adapt small to big (which will be why you're unlikely to find a commercial adapter)' but I'm happy to give it a try for you.
I think it will all revolve around the spacing of the new heater elements and thermostat fitting through your existing threads after machining. You could drop off the old heater and I'll chop it up first to see what space can be made available then see if that fits a new heater … let me know.
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Julian, TVM for that v. kind offer, I may take you up on it this week when I'm going to L'head. One question. If I've pictured what you have in mind correctly would the position of the element, now sitting deeper in the new longer 'pipe' affect anything temperature wise?
In the meantime, I'm going to a real plumbing supply place tomorrow (i.e. not a Homebase or the like) to speak to a plumber to see what's available & what my options are.
The processor is a Goldenray. I don't understand why they would design their machine with an odd sized, hard to find, expensive element when the world is knee deep in £15 2¼" elements.
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Presume the heater is mounted at the bottom of the tank pointing vertically up or horizontally, if so no, it shouldn't make any difference other than if it's vertical it may form a pocket that won't drain but that's not really a big issue.
And the reason they use an odd ball is so that customers have to go back to them for spares although I'm sure if you hunt around you'll find one of the same size … some listed here but I bet they won't be cheap … https://www.backergroup.com/en-no/products/heating/heating-elements/immersion-heaters/standard-screw-plug-water-immersion-heater/2018-03-22-2-immersion-heaters.html
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I think I've found what I need at a reasonable price (though £12 for shipping is a bit of a piss take IMO), part # BESTB 340: 2.00″ BSP (2″)
http://www.heatrodshop.com/product/cestb340
It's a little bit longer than my old one but will still fit with a couple of inches to spare. I'm going to get one & will report back when I've tried to fit it.
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Just a thought, but you have checked exactly what's wrong with the heater … if it's the element it'll need replacing, but if you are using the thermostat, could that be the problem? Replacing that would be a lot easer and way cheaper.
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The 2nd thing I did was to swap the stat (1st was to check the plug fuse).
I'm pretty sure the element is fooked.
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Well, the new heater element arrived,was the right size & was fitted. When I turned it on to dry the batch the failure of the old unit interrupted it worked. Yea!
When I went to use it today it didn't work. Boo.
A friend who understands electricity much better than I do has tested it in the machine & tells me the element itself is conducting leccy & doing what it should do. He thinks the stat is to blame as it isn't conducting leccy, but this stat (a Cotherm TSE00187) looks fiendishly complicated to my amateur eye as there are 3 sets of points on this thing & fitting the cap is extremely fiddly. Before we start fiddling with it I was wondering if anyone was familiar with these stats & could pinpoint the problem.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/jqnczo.jpg)
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Usually the thermostat is a separate lump that can be replaced independently … yours looks to be integral with the heater.
I believe, as of a few years ago, immersion heaters had have a safety cut out fitted by law. Usually the cut outs are part of the thermostat and resettable with a little button. Your equiverlent could be the little lever at 5:00 o'clock which appears to operate the two big contacts on live an neutral. If so the contact at 10:00 o'clock is the thermostat and may be adjustable by what appears to be the knurled knob on the white lever.
All guess work on my part, but hope it helps ... it's difficult to workout its operation from a photo. If you can drop it off I'm happy to have a play.
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Julian, It slides in & out like a regular old stat, not fixed in any way to the element.
The orangey red thing is the safety/overheat/ re-set button. It had not popped up when the thing stopped working.
I'll take a photo of the cap tomorrow, it might make it clearer.
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(http://i64.tinypic.com/332ruoo.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/34tbtja.jpg)
This pic adds some depth & may make it easier to see what's what.
(http://i68.tinypic.com/4pw3tu.jpg)
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So there must be some sort of contact/sprung connection between the heater element and the white body.
You could try using a meter to check the continuity from live to neutral across all the contacts. Don't know if it's the angle of the photo, but in the last picture it looks like the contact to the left of the knurled nut may be bent.
The holes in the cap marked 1 and 2 look like they could be test points for making contact with the two brass lugs sticking up above the whit lever. You could check for voltage across them with the cap in place. If you know there's power to the unit and have checked the continuity of the element, if there's no voltage that would narrow the problem down to the contacts or thermostat. If there is voltage it must be the contacts/connections between the white body and the element.
Again, it would be a lot easier to help if I could see it in person.
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Julian,
I'll be down your way Sunday week, possibly earlier, & can drop it off, leave it with you or whatever you like. No rush at my end so if you can find the time to have a look that'd be great.
Would that be OK?
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Be happy to have a look at it. Probably won't take long to work out what's wrong … just give me a ring the day before.