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General => Chatter => Topic started by: K.H on June 28, 2015, 11:08:49 AM
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Im trying to get this repaired, its from a cheapo Chinese electric bike (my fathers), replacement parts are non existent.
The part at the front with the curved wire is definitely broken,
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/004_zpshdbr4u2a.jpg)
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/002_zpstgqjtdoa.jpg)
And i guess the rest needs checking.
This part hopefully just needs soldering back together
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/003_zpsaw8e1fw0.jpg)
Within reason price is not a issue, need to get him back on the road!
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Alan is the one for electric bikes.
The broken bit in the lower shot - is that a ir rev counter part? If so, that's an off the shelf bit.
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Looks like a couple of blown electrolityc caps, there is a diode and a wire wound resistor that look shot too. I will bring a multimeter and some one is bringing me a scope, between us we should be able to sort them all out.
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The bit with the curved wire looks like an IN4148 - pennies to buy.
The bit in the lower pic is, as Julian says, most likely an IR pulse sensor but could (less likely) be a Hall-effect sensor. Any numbers on that part?
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You will have to excuse my ignorence on these electrical terms, i havent a clue
The bottom pic - the pedal shaft has two sets of fins which rotate between the U shaped things
I guess this controls the motor assist?
As an aside it also has a throttle type control, the pedal shaft part is just to comply with UK regs AFAIK, if this was bypassed it wouldnt be a problem to me
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That diode could also potentially be a zener diode for a reference voltage. Are there any markings on it?
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the problem with blown parts is what else they took out when they blew. not helpful i know but just changing the blown parts may not work. worth a try though. the broken bit in the bottom pic is most likely a IR counter. there should be a number on it somewhere.cheap and easy it fix. i have a friend who could have a look at it if you get stuck. he is well into his electric bikes and is also an electronics enginner.
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Diode markings are always very hard to read. Even when theyre loose, on the desk, in good light.
These two are the same, but have the writing in different orientations -
(http://www.electronics123.com/website/image/product.template/4086_b86d2e1/image)
(http://d1gsvnjtkwr6dd.cloudfront.net/large/SC-DI-1N4148_LRG.jpg)
both 1N4148. Im posting the images as an example of what to look for / how hard it is to see.
I assume there's no hope of soldering the wire back onto the body? It does not look like there is a stub, but it may be a consideration?
On looking further, im almost certain that the other parts are a pair of photoswitches. Here is a photo of some fresh ones -
(http://static.rapidonline.com/catalogueimages/Module/M029427P01WL.jpg)
They are not big money - couple of quid each or so.
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the problem with blown parts is what else they took out when they blew.
That's always my thoughts with the 'fix by looking at it' technique, but it looks, in this case, as the damage has been physical, rather than electronic? Ie somone has whacked it, and things have snapped, rather than a more 'technical' fault? : )
(ive always had very poor results with 'fix by looking' but then i know others have more luck than me)
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Yes, definately need the whole thing checking as suggested, the bottom part was bust by me dismantling
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what voltage is the battery, and how many watts is the motor ?
new controllers are pretty cheap (£20 ish)
it's probably easier just to replace it for new
it's easiest just to put a normal controller with a throttle on it... unless your dad likes the pedal assist feature (where you pedal and it helps) for the exercise ?
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This is built in to the pedal shaft unlike most others where you can buy a module
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can you put up a photo ?
vast majority of e bike stuff is pretty much the same
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Sounds like a PM sychronous machine. Funnily enough...just writing a masters thesis on them.
Stick up some photos - most motor types can be driven with an off the shelf controller of some sort.
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These both say WYC576
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/003_zpsaw8e1fw0.jpg)
This is the whole "electric control unit" which fits in the bottom bracket with the pedal shaft going through it, Pedelec style
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/006_zpsammqexlu.jpg)
Very similar bike
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/1_836_zpsad5fk2d1.jpg)
Ive had a closer look at the board, i cant read anything on the "diode" but there is an identical one one the other side? which says 15T i think
The Blue coloured thing to the left of it has a bust leg this says "D81 CD8" those are the only damage i can see
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/005_zpsc0d7iep7.jpg)
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Given that there appear to be only two big transistors, I'd hazard a guess and say it's a DC motor. In which case, a £20 controller off the bay would work fine.
You'd probably want to confirm that before buying one though.
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I will take a pic of the motor tonight
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Given that there appear to be only two big transistors, I'd hazard a guess and say it's a DC motor. In which case, a £20 controller off the bay would work fine.
You'd probably want to confirm that before buying one though.
Do these pics help?
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/003_zpsygqyfmju.jpg)
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/002_zpstvqa2fm9.jpg)
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/001_zps9wbawkn4.jpg)
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How many cables go to it?
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Two i think, but will confirm
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if it's 2 it'll be DC
if it was 3 phase you'd have 3 bigger wires and then 5 small wires (for the hall/position sensors)
does it have a throttle, or is it just pedal assist ?
throttle is easier, but a new pedal sensor is no biggie either (to match new controller)
probably easier if you have the bike to hand to look at... both either of these should fit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bike-Power-Pedal-Assist-Sensor-PAS-Voltage-Mode-E-Bike-Assistant-Set-/261947134809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfd441359
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bicycle-e-Bike-PAS-Pedal-Assist-Sensor-easy-fit-/111681836795?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item1a00c196fb
you also need to know the battery voltage, so you can get a controller to match (about £20 delivered from ebay)
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Two wires, 24V and it has pedal assist and throttle, quite happy to do away with the pedal assist
These are all the wires on the bike
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/002_zpsecn5htwt.jpg)
That accounts for all the wires on here
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/006_zpsammqexlu.jpg)
Except for this which also plugs into it
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/003_zpsiygcjecc.jpg)
Only strange thing i have spotted is that the battery wires, 2 thick red, 1 thick black plug into 2 thick black 1 thick red?
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Bob, this is what i have on the bike
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/002_zpsecn5htwt.jpg)
This is the controller
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/_12_zps19dhqsej.jpg)
Specification:
brush motor controller
Suitable Voltage: 24v
Match Motor: 24V 500W
Current Limit: 28A+-1A Short Voltege
Protection: 20V+-0.5V
Speed Regulator 1-4 V(Throttle )
Wires Interface Definition:
Battery :Thick Black (Power Negative) /Thick Red (Power Positive)
Motor :Thick Yellow (Motor Negative) /Thick Blue (Motor Positive)
Ignition Switch :Thin Red(VCC)/Thin Blue
Indicator : Thin red (Indicator power output) /thin black (indicator negative)
Brake :thin yellow (Brake signal)/thin black(Negative Power)
Speed governor :Thin blue(Speed handlebar Signal input) /Thin black (Negtive Power) /thin red(5V Positive Power)
Charge Port : Thin red (charge input power Positive) /thin black (Power negative)
Brake Light: Thin red (power Positive) /thin black (Power negative)
Pedelec unit
Three wires
(http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm323/KRH01/_12%201_zpsm1ssegrg.jpg)
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That's definitely a DC motor.
A cheap controller from eBay should do the job nicely.
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That's definitely a DC motor.
A cheap controller from eBay should do the job nicely.
The one shown is a cheapy i have bought, just not sure which wires on it go where :)
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Brake light and indicator you can ignore if your bike doesn't have them. Because they are generic they have connections on them that may not be on your bike.
You have the basics there. That blue component maybe a shotkey diode. It stops arcing when connecting and disconnecting the battery.
I would connect the motor, brakes, throttle and last battery and give it a whirl.
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Battery :Thick Black (Power Negative) /Thick Red (Power Positive) i have 2 red 1 black? solved i think, see below
Motor :Thick Yellow (Motor Negative) /Thick Blue (Motor Positive)
Ignition Switch :Thin Red(VCC)/Thin Blue no ign switch so connect together?
Indicator : Thin red (Indicator power output) /thin black (indicator negative) ignore
Brake :thin yellow (Brake signal)/thin black(Negative Power)
Speed governor :Thin blue(Speed handlebar Signal input) /Thin black (Negtive Power) /thin red(5V Positive Power) i only have 2 wires from throttle
Charge Port : Thin red (charge input power Positive) /thin black (Power negative) battery state?
Brake Light: Thin red (power Positive) /thin black (Power negative) ignore
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Just had a closer look, one of the battery positives goes to the motor, so i think i ignore that and just connect the motor to the controller
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Speed governor :Thin blue(Speed handlebar Signal input) /Thin black (Negtive Power) /thin red(5V Positive Power) i
This is troublesome. The simple solution is to get a new handlebar speed thingy. Electronic solutions are complex and will require messing around with resistors and things. Could probably work it out - how handy are you with a multimeter?
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Speed governor :Thin blue(Speed handlebar Signal input) /Thin black (Negtive Power) /thin red(5V Positive Power) i
This is troublesome. The simple solution is to get a new handlebar speed thingy. Electronic solutions are complex and will require messing around with resistors and things. Could probably work it out - how handy are you with a multimeter?
Will buy new throttle! :)
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Sorry James, i think i need glasses, when i cut the throttle connection off there were three wires AND its alive!
Thanks for everyones help :)
One further question can that Pedelec thing be spliced in?
Three wires red, black and green
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Excellent news! :D
I know nothing of how the pedelec units work, so a pass from me.