Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
General => Alternative heat and power => Topic started by: Tony on August 07, 2014, 09:25:52 PM
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So I built this out of bits for a little over a tenner:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/mht4ro.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/mwcig1.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/33ayuk2.jpg)
It atomises a stream of bio very finely and my modest little compressor can easily keep up with it - bonus.
Problem is that I need a new regulator, it produces way too much air and blows the flame front right away. It resonates that tube like a good'un when it does burn though - must've woken up the whole neighbourhood ;)
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Looking good Tony,
Have you tried a simple valve to cut down the air flow?
Also, have you managed to get the tube hot? Im thinking then it should self sustain, even with too much air.
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Construction:
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2nsxi78.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/29y1dgy.jpg)
Parts:
1x crappy airgun duster off eBay for the nozzle http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300886071240 £1.64
1/4" BSP stainless equal tee £2.08
1/4" BSP stainless street elbow £0.99
1/4" -> 1/8" BSP reducer £0.99
1/4" BSP To 4mm Compression Stud £2.29
10ml syringe and 10cm long needles blunt x 2 £2.25
Some 4mm nylon pipe (already had, it's about £1 a meter)
Total cost £11.24 (excluding airline PCL adapter - I plan to add a regulator here instead).
The airgun nozzle isn't BSP but it's close enough to grip a few threads with PTFE. The syringe needles I melted the original plastic end fitting off over the stove and melted into the end of the 4mm nylon pipe such that the distance was set to have the tip just protruding from the end of the nozzle. (Actually in the photos at the top of the thread it was perfectly flush, I'm tweaking to see what happens)!
Edit after measuring:
Airgun nozzle outlet is 2.1mm
Blunt needles are 1.6mm OD with 0.2mm wall - this makes them approximately needle gauge 16
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Looking good.
I was surprised to see the tube protruding through the nozzle ... does that work better than being within the nozzle?
Have you thought of using an 'O' ring in place of the brass olive? It would let you adjust the position of the tube easily.
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Looking good Tony,
Have you tried a simple valve to cut down the air flow?
Also, have you managed to get the tube hot? Im thinking then it should self sustain, even with too much air.
Not played long enough to get the tube glowing just hot enough to make a ridiculous amount of smoke when the flame goes out.
I don't have a 1/4" valve to hand, and the reg I picked up on eBay for a few quid has 1/8" ports. Grr!
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I was surprised to see the tube protruding through the nozzle ... does that work better than being within the nozzle?
Don't know, when I tried it the tube was flush and that worked fine. Not tried it protruding yet.
Have you thought of using an 'O' ring in place of the brass olive? It would let you adjust the position of the tube easily.
Hadn't thought of that, good idea. I'll see if I have a suitable sized one.
Edit: Nope, they're either slightly too small or slightly too big. No worries, the nylon melts easily enough to adjust the position.
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I've probably got a small control system regulator, not sure on the port sizes. I'll check in the morning. PM me your address and if it's ¼" I'll pop it in the post.
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Just thinking about it. Is it a regulator you need? If it's working against and open ended tube, it can't regulate pressure effectively.
You may be better off regulating the flow than the pressure as I think has already been suggested. A needle valve will do it most accurately if you don't need a massive volume.
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Have some 1.5mm x 100mm blunt needles if any one wants to play
let me know and I will post them of foc.
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Just thinking about it. Is it a regulator you need? If it's working against and open ended tube, it can't regulate pressure effectively.
Ah, I didn't know that. I was planning on running it with somewhere around 7 psi of back pressure?
You may be better off regulating the flow than the pressure as I think has already been suggested. A needle valve will do it most accurately if you don't need a massive volume.
So pressure reg then needle valve?
I assume this would do the job then: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231262703823
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All my pneumatic control experience was dealing with systems that were effectively closed ie pressure transmitters etc, and I'm not sure that a combination of the two would be viable unless the regulator was of sufficient flow to build pressure against the needle valve orifice.
However if you want to try, I've got a small regulator with ¼" ports and a ⅛" tapping to take a pressure gauge ... the only suitable gauge I can find has the "glass" attacked by bio. You could take the glass off and use it without if you wish.
Got a couple of ¼" - 4mm push-in fittings too.
Yours if you want it for the cost of the postage.
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I used one of these when i was messing with turk burners off the compressor -
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqQOKnUE3ZMYLqdCBN+rZu4sr!~~1_12.JPG)
It was £4.50, which seems quite a bit now!
All it is is a valve, not a regulator (although that's what it was sold as) - i would have thought that any valve would do you well, just so long as you can fit the air line to it.
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does it use much air ?
I'm guessing if your little compressor can keep up with it, it can't use loads ?
without a regulator the air flow will increase/decrease as the compressor kicks in/out ?
even if you set the regulator pressure high (the min your compressor will fall too) it'll mean there's constant pressure to your needle valve so air flow should be constant ?
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What you're saying can't be strictly true.
I've nicked this diagram from wikipedia ...
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1c/Single-stage-regulator.svg/520px-Single-stage-regulator.svg.png)
If the outlet on the left is an open pipe, the mechanism will open up fully trying to regulate pressure against nothing. Block the outlet pipe and it will balance to whatever pressure it's been set at.
I guess in this situation the regulator should be considered as a pressure limiting devise for when it sees sufficient resistance against which a pressure can be created. The rest of the time it will just run full bore.
Tony's suggestion of using both is probably the best solution in retrospect ... needle valve to control the flow and a regulator to control the pressure against the needle valve.
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but... if the needle valve after the regulator slows the air flow to less than the max the compressor can supply
then ther should be enough back pressure for the pressure regulator to work as normal ?
(I've never done it before, so just guessing)
EDIT: I think the important bit is that Tony said his modest little compressor can keep up with it, so it can't be using shed loads of air ? - trying to start the turbo jet engine at the BBB my little compressor ran out of air pretty quick... after about 60sec it was starting to run low...
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That's pretty much what I said.
I think it all depends on the flow at which the regulator is designed to work and the capacity of the compressor.
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My compressor dates back to 1977, it's a year younger than me :P It's a vertical 35l cylinder with 370W (1/2HP) Brook-Compton motor on top. The hotter it is, the better it seems to pump.
I vaguely remember reading that the rule of thumb for compressors was roughly 4 cfm per HP which would suggest 2 cfm from it.
I've measured its actual flow rate at between 50-70 lpm depending on whether it's cold or not. That's 1.8 - 2.5 cfm in old money. Not a lot!
The regulator with it is knackered, I actually have two replacement regs here both 1/8" ported. Thank you Julian but I will just buy a few 1/4 to 1/8 nipples for the ones I've got. I don't think 1/8" ports will be much of a restriction on this compressor.
So yes I've been driving the nozzle directly from the compressor, which gets up to about 40 psi and sits there with the compressor running continuously. This is way too much air pressure for the nozzle (it starts syphoning at just a few PSI), so I've been unplugging it to get the flow down as the air diminishes. Not a great way to maintain a consistent syphon.
Raising the fuel above the nozzle also increases the flow, this makes it much richer and I have managed to light that at lower PSI before the compressor ran out of air.
It sounds like I need to get a reg on it feeding a constant pressure to a needle valve, get a decent flame going, and measure the rate of liquid usage. Then move on to burning glyc rather than bio.
Knighty your compressor I suspect is somewhat more powerful than mine :)
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my compressor is ok, it's a 4kw hydro vane... which isn't bad but can't keep up using something like a air sander etc...
but... I got drunk on ebay once night, so I've got a 1500litre tank for it... once that's full it takes forever to empty... it's a real pain when you need to empty it on purpose :-o
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Ahha - sustained burn with regulator and flow valve!
http://youtu.be/tNkCL20w3R0
(http://i61.tinypic.com/dze3yr.jpg)
The traditional beans can :)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2r6h4kg.jpg)
Needed the fuel raised quite high to get the flow right for correct fuelling, so nothing like as good as a proper nozzle. Perhaps not too surprising. This was on bio, it would be good to try glyc too.
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The tube in the video sounding like a pulsejet makes me just want to "tune it". It wasn't popular with the neighbours ;)
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I think pulsjet noise means it's not getting enough air ?
maybe you should shape the start of the tube like an educator, and get it to suck in extra fresh air ?
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Maybe use a bigger tube?
I've got a little DC gear pump and a voltage regulator now, should be able to meter the fuel flow better. Perhaps more fuel and more air and a bigger flame :)
Here's the pump, not bad for £1.69
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251526596739
6mm OD nylon tubing seems to fit over the ports snugly, so I need a 6mm - 4mm reducer (£1.39 - this project is getting expensive). In testing it runs quite happily with a lot of flow at just 3V so I'm hoping this means it'll run continuous duty (since it's rated for 12v).
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To keep the info all in one place, here is it burning with jamesrl's amazing burner tube attached:
http://youtu.be/2S7T6ChiS3s
http://youtu.be/-j2Cmst88aM
http://youtu.be/xF-giW4eotc
(http://s5.postimg.org/ozdwvuoo7/IMG_5883.jpg)
(http://s5.postimg.org/x65wnfeqv/IMG_5885.jpg)
Our weekend of experimentation at the BBB has taught us that a cheap gear pump slips the motor shaft when asked to push veg or engine oil hard (though probably would have been OK if it was heated first to thin it), and that getting the air flow and fuel flow mix right makes a major difference as can be seen in the pics above.
My linear voltage regulator and small 12V PSU wasn't up to running the pump for any period of time, we had to resort to car light bulbs wired in series/parallel to control the pump speed, driven from a 12V car battery.
It was also a pain to run back to the compressor to change the air pressure, a regulator local to the nozzle might be a better idea.
So I think another air regulator is in order, as is a better gear pump and appropriate drive circuit.
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I'm going to experiment a bit more.
At the moment with the air nozzle and blunt syringe it has 1.1mm2 fuel delivery and 1.5mm2 air delivery.
So I am thinking of upping the air outlet size to 2.4mm from 2.1mm using a rivet nozzle:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191576261067 (£3.44)
...and putting a 2mm OD tube down the middle which gives 1.4mm2 air - so for the same air flow the pressure will need to be higher but the air flow will also be greater velocity.
This also means it's a bit easier to get the tubing in decent lengths:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobby-Design-Stainless-Steel-Tube-Diameter-2-0mm-Length-200mm-/271909498165 (5 off for £5.07 delivered)
No clue on ID though and there must be suppliers in the UK, not that I've found any!
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Right! And this is the making of a meatier viscous fuels pump :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYQQ3hFtYWk
Can't imaging that'll struggle with engine oil or veg.
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Right! And this is the making of a meatier viscous fuels pump :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYQQ3hFtYWk
Can't imaging that'll struggle with engine oil or veg.
Geezus, are you trying to compete with the heat output of an oil fired Power station?
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I think you might need more air flow with that pump?
I'm wondering if you couldn't use the compressor for the jet, and then a fan to pump in the volume for combustion?
Rather like krill (etc) burners.
Me? I'm just waiting for you design to stabalise, then I'll copy what you've done! : )
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Right! And this is the making of a meatier viscous fuels pump :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYQQ3hFtYWk
Can't imaging that'll struggle with engine oil or veg.
Geezus, are you trying to compete with the heat output of an oil fired Power station?
It's way more flow than it needs to be, but if it is set up to run against a valve which lets the majority of flow return to the tank that will allow some pressure control? The advantage of that is that this return flow could potentially be routed via a HE to warm the fuel tank from the output flame.
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I'm wondering if you couldn't use the compressor for the jet, and then a fan to pump in the volume for combustion?
An interesting thought, ideally the compressed air should only be used to break up the liquid for the jet and the rest of the air can be fairly low pressure but higher volume.
But, I do want it to be simple so others can re-create without too much build/scrounging.
If I can regulate the output of my gear pump to make it suitable for running the jet, then the same should be possible for say, a 12V power steering pump or gear pump driven from a wiper motor.
Also, I think I've found some decent lengths of capillary tube in stainless, but it's hard to tell from the listing what it is (from China - Aliexpress) so I've ordered some and crossed fingers.
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Bit of a setback with the gear pump. I'd figured out where all the ports and one way valves went, run it one way and it would suck through the hydraulic filter, the other blow bypassing the filter. Could change direction if the one way valves were reversed.
Anyway, decided to run some water through it to see how it did, and it stalled almost immediately. Couldn't get it to run backwards or forwards on the VFD. Then the VFD cut out. Can't get it to drive the motor at all. I've checked the windings and they are OK, dismantled the pump so I can turn it by hand but the VFD is having none of it. No current fault codes, just won't drive it. I've reset it to factory defaults and reconfigured it but no joy.
It may (not 100% clear on this) have flashed fault code 08 at me at one point, which means "component failure". But I can't see that now.
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Well, this 2.4 nozzle arrived:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191576261067
Says 3.2 on the side (listing does show that actually). Nozzle is 2.0mm at the flat end, 2.75mm at the threaded end. No idea where 2.4mm comes from. I guess I can drill it out or try the next size up.
Might try this one, SUPPOSEDLY 3.2mm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-3-2MM-SPARE-NOZZLE-SPARES-CHARGES-/310488005442
£2.22 and it comes with a free tape measure, bargain! Edit: And 10% off if you buy two.
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I got the gear pump VFD back up and running (turns out a long press on the control knob puts it into remote control mode and the keypad is then ignored) and have spent an evening of experimenting.
The unfortunate conclusion is that it's designed to pump light lubricating oil only. Anything too thick like glyc or even liquids that don't lubricate it enough like water cause it to stall. Same with restricting the output. So I suspect it was intended to pump lubricating oil onto cutting surfaces in a machining environment. It pumps bio OK, which is what I've used it for before (low power circulation pump).
Too much flow and not enough torque (it's only 120W) to be a burner fuel pump - back to the drawing board!
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I found this in the shed! greasemonkey may remember it from a BBB where we tried to dismantle it and only succeeding in breaking a (very crumbly) circlip (don't judge us, we're both a bit obsessed with brass things):
(http://s5.postimg.org/403evwz8n/IMAG0259.jpg)
(http://s5.postimg.org/h5ix20t47/IMAG0260.jpg)
Good job I checked the wiring before connecting it up, no earth..! :o
(http://s5.postimg.org/k9tkyt9wn/IMAG0261.jpg)
Anyway, it runs (and pumps) and is a candidate for being a fuel pump for the burner. I think it's a little vane pump in the style of Rotoflow pumps.
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Good to see you're still at it Tony, keep up the good work! ;)
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Good to see you're still at it Tony, keep up the good work! ;)
Hehe plugging away! I think this pump has an integrated overpressure bypass, only one way to find out though :)
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Ah yeah, I remember that. Huge great motor, and a tiny little pump.
Might be worth sticking a circlip back in it.
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Got one on order, I think it's a standard 47mm circlip. That disc at the front keeps the liquid in as I found out playing with it in the garden, err, I mean, "technically assessing it".
The motor might be huge but it's only 1/6 HP. But that's old tech for you, it spun up after no doubt a decade or more of sitting idle. I suspect it was built in the 80s. It has some form of centrifugal start mechanism (additional winding switched in?) integrated into it.
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It has some form of centrifugal start mechanism (additional winding switched in?) integrated into it.
Cheap Chinese motors use that system, sort of a centrifugal switch making the capacitor a run one not a start cap.
Well summit like that.
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Might try this one, SUPPOSEDLY 3.2mm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-3-2MM-SPARE-NOZZLE-SPARES-CHARGES-/310488005442
£2.22 and it comes with a free tape measure, bargain! Edit: And 10% off if you buy two.
The end port on this one is 2.25mm, at the thread end there is a little lip that restricts to 2.0mm - might be able to use this to my advantage to hold the 2.0mm OD stainless tubing, drilling holes for the airway.
It's M8 threaded, just need to adapt this to 1/4 bsp to test it, perhaps drill and thread a 1/4 bsp blanking cap unless anyone knows where you can buy such a crazy adapter?
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Also I won this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Central-Heating-Pump-/171857673229
I'm assuming they are some kind of low ratio gear pump?
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I think theyre bypass, rather than geared, if you see what i mean (indeed, if that is what you were asking?)
So, a gear pump with pressure bypass. Some of them are configurable so as the bypass goes back to the tank, or is re-circulated.
That thing sticking out the side is a reed solenoid type thing. Its normally energised by the burner control unit after the fan (motor) has got up to speed to (i assume) give a sharp start to the flow.
You will either need to energise that, or, possibly, remove it.
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ps.
IIRC danfoss has reasonable diagrams of that one - i had to fit a new one to our burner once (same type, part number, i think)
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Well I replaced the circlip on the scrounged vane pump and plumbed up some fittings with a needle valve to restrict the outlet (it has an internal overpressure bypass by all accounts) and tested it with water - no problems, beyond some weeping at the back of the pump head (must just need an o-ring or gasket).
Then the glycerol test. As soon as it started POP! The circlip and front plate blew out, along with a nice jet of glycerol. I'm a bit gutted, had high hopes for this pump!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Od1XK4McaXI/Va69jHLUF3I/AAAAAAAACPY/1myOAZxheqc/s912-Ic42/IMAG0283.jpg)
Back to the drawing board, and pinning my hopes on the boiler oil pump that's in the post!
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If I was designing a burner to burn glycerol, I'd use a method to that used to burn heavy fuel.
There's normally a fuel system that heats the fuel with feedback via a viscosity meter. From cold, the plant is started on distillate to generate the heat - it's then switched over to heavy and blended until completely running on heavy. This keeps the viscosity within a certain range to keep the atomisation correct and fuel pumps happy. Normally 15-20 cS IIRC.
Smaller system use electric heating rather than steam/thermal oil.
edit: Attached a marine fuel system for burning HFO. It says engine, and no one uses pneumatic controls these days, but hopefully you'll get the idea.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Interesting. I was thinking that with a larger gear pump the outlet could have a small feed for the burner and an overflow that goes via a coil close to the burner tube before returning to the tank, so it could be started on something thin and then switched to a thicker mix which would get heated. But the heat delivered to the tank would be unregulated.
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The danfoss oil pump you won is the same as the ones on my burners, as Julian says it has a solenoid to let fuel to the outlet, but you should be able to wire it direct to mains to test, if it doesn't work then you can remove it and screw a bolt in the hole instead.
I'm not sure what they will be like with wvo or glyc or engine oil but for bio or diesel they work great.
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Thanks for the info, I probably wouldn't have figured that out. Only one way to find out how well it works :)
I have a variac so should be able to turn the flow up and down with that, if the bypass doesn't deal with that for me.
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On some Danfoss pumps you can increase the pump pressure by turning an allen screw on the front of the pump body, but looking at the pic of yours it doesn't look like it has one, unless it is on the side below the bleed screw like some have..
But bypassing the solenoid on mine sends it into lockout mode after 20 secs, so the control box must sense that the solenoid isn't there, but running it without a control box like you will be then it should be ok.
see my post here
http://www.biopowered.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,2607.msg33157/topicseen.html#msg33157
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Tony was it you that wanted an electric power steering pump
have one of a Peugeot 106 foc.
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Yes, thank you - but I should see if this oil boiler pump does the job before taking you up on your kind offer :)
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The boiler pump arrived, but I'm confused. It has a driveshaft shaft protruding with a flat side - I take it that this is where there would normally be a drive motor?
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Yes the driveshaft attaches to the motor, and there will be two allen screws on the pump one for bleeding fuel, one for pump pressure, pressure adjustment one usually has plus and minus signs next to it.
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Ah yes, gotcha on the pump pressure adjustment.
Been peering at eBay but can't find a motor - don't really know what to look for though!
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you want a motor from from an electro oil burner like these, usually 90watt and others like bentone and riello and eogb may fit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-PUMP-MOTOR-FOR-TRIANCO-20-25-OIL-FIRED-BOILER-IN-FULL-WORKING-ORDER-/291504581473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43df06eb61
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90W-240V-Motor-for-Bentone-Oil-Burner-B11B-etc-/151752329143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item235524c7b7
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=MOTOR+FOR+OIL+FIRED+BOILER&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X90+watt+MOTOR+FOR++BOILER.TRS0&_nkw=90+watt+MOTOR+FOR++BOILER&_sacat=0
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Those oil burner motors also drive the fan.
You could hook it up to any old motor - a small DC device would be the easiest I'd imagine. An old power drill would probably be the easiest.
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Thanks for the pointers!
I'm sure this will seem trivial to you seasoned machinists, but tonight I successfully drilled and tapped a 316 stainless endstop to mount the nozzle in :)
My poor centre punch though, it just blunted up against it, so consequently, the hole isn't quite in the middle :(
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WVga0J1hBF0/Vbitz610FOI/AAAAAAAACPo/I2Zexz_0RFU/s512-Ic42/IMAG0314.jpg)
Ordered new end stop and better (hopefully) centre punch!
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Tony,
I tried to reply before, but, for some reason, this forum now crashes my phone every time i try to reply...
Anyhow,
Jules had some issue with the gear pump on his burner, trying to run split FFAs. I cant recall the exact detals, but it was along the lines of HMPEs (or their equivalents) blocking the internal gauze on the pump, and then the seals breaking under suction - or somthing like that anyhow.
So, the gear pump may not do you for that long when trying to pump more viscous stuff. It may be fine for years, but jules's just didnt seem to last that long.
And, as above, i can confirm that they are driven by the same motor that does the fan. Its not variable speed, so you should be able to work out the rpm easy enough (i dont know how many pole, but it must be written somwhere)
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I've won a motor on eBay (a good deal by all accounts as it's brand new, but still more than I wanted to spend, IE it wasn't less than a tenner!) Thanks Chug and Julian for the pointers.
I'm a little concerned about what you say about seals and suction, so if I can find the gauze, I'll remove it. It's not like it will be spraying clean liquid through a fine aperture, just delivering it to the windy bit of the nozzle. Though I do need to figure out what on earth all the ports and hangy-off bits do. Is there a page that has general knowledge on how these oil burners normally hang together?
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I think i said - look at the danfoss manual. Pretty sure there's exploded diagrams.
There are things like - if you fit a certain part inside, it either returns excess fuel to the tank (loop) or keeps it in the pump. One obviously bleeds, and the other is a pain.
...but that may be irrelevant, considering your application, anyhow.
The ports will be in, return, then the allen key one for the pressure, and the solenoid with reed valve thing.
Oh, and the outlet of course.
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http://heating.danfoss.com/pcmpdf/dkbdps000a802.pdf
i think pg55, but look at the other ones also, as im not sure that "L3" is the same as "Type 3"
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this one may be better -
http://heating.danfoss.com/PCMPDF/BFP10-11_VDDKQ202.pdf
shows settings for one pipe, or looped opperation.
it may be interesting for you to stick a pressure gauge on it also, but possibly not, if youre never going to be pumping at pressure.
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Next problem.
I have a motor EOGB M02-1-90-13 (brand new one, for cheap!) and aforementioned Danfoss BFP 11L3 pump (I understand L means left hand, rotates anti-clockwise), the two fit together but need some form of coupling to join them.
Is this the right coupling? Are Riello and Danfoss pumps interchangable?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RIELLO-OIL-PUMP-DRIVE-COUPLING-RDB-AND-MECTRON-3000443-/191624698084
Or something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BENTONE-SINGLE-STEP-DRIVE-COUPLING-C01-00-117-56802-SIMEL-AEG-B9-Pump-dog-/141607047964
(nearly a fiver for a bit of plastic ain't happening, I'd rather print one)
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A bit of hose and two jubilee clips works quite nicely if you're not too bothered about a 'proper' engineering solution.
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Hehe I like your thinking!
Sadly this is not a shaft to shaft coupling, the pump has a shaft with a flat and the motor has a recessed pocket in the back that takes some keyed coupler.
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mine are in parts like this,
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/eogb-drive-coupling-inter-11-10-12-109-99-p-55576.html