Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
General => Wiki and forum discussion => Topic started by: Julian on July 25, 2011, 10:33:22 PM
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Looks VERY interesting ... waiting for the description with baited breath.
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Hmm,i guess your on about those pics i uploaded
They are of a homemade water test kit,really a combination of the "sandy brae" and the "carbide manometer",it took a while to get the right components worked out (i wanted bits that could be easily sourced) but i made two about 6 months ago and Nige has the other one,we are using ours with calcium hydride but it is expensive and hard to get,they work just as well with calcium carbide but the reaction takes a few minutes longer
You put in the oil and dry solvent (white spirit) then the calcium goes into the little holder,on with the lid and shake, then you take a reading at a set time,there are two gauges one a low pressure one ,so you watch the lower gauge and if it looks like its going to go off the scale shut the valve to isolate it and read off the higher gauge,cost is about £30
The only bugbear is you have to calibrate each one first as at this price the gauges differ in there readings
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I'd guessed that's what is was ... weren't you after a sealing ring for it a while back?
Why the white sprit? Don't remember reading about that in the Sandy Brae blurb.
How accurate is it? What sort of pressures are generated?
I like the two stage gauge idea, very neat. I guess changing the volume by valving off part of the system is of little consequence, or is that covered in the calibration?
I'm well impressed, but we do need a full write up.
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I've seen one of Keith's early prototypes in action, it's a great idea :)
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The reason the pics havnt become a page yet is that ive misplaced all my notes,at the moment all ive got is the parts list and the plotted results graph,they will turn up - i hope
The idea behind the dry solvent is that any water present needs to get to the reactive reagent as quick as pos so thinning helps this.
Both gauges are open to the pressure until the lower one starts to near its upper limit then it is isolated by the valve so i hope the volume isnt affected too much,a dry sample comes out at 11psi on this one and ive taken it upto 80psi with 4000ppm
I forgot we looked at this Tony,we got carried away with the silica gel and Nige doing the soap tests,much more fun :) ,well untill you got the soap result!
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If you are intending to publish the graphs on the wiki I could redraw as a graphic, same as the Leo pump page. Might be clearer than a scan.
Did you look at digital gauges, I know they're expensive but they seem to be capable of a large range with a high resolution.
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I dont think i will post any graphs as the varience in cheap gauges means each kit really does need to be calibrated,it would be too tempting to use the posted one i think
Ive been tempted by a digital gauge but the price takes it away from the DIY job i was aiming for and too close to the sandy brae price,still might be tempted if the price is right tho,just for my one
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Looks VERY interesting ... waiting for the description with baited breath.
???????
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Can someone take a look and see if you think you could build one using my instructions?
http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Water_in_fuel_-_test_kit
Nigel is kindly digging out his paperwork and will have a look to see if there are any obvious mistakes ive made
Any volunteers for linky things etc?,i find that beyond me,i try adding something and the page goes to ****
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Only had a quick skip through, but it looks pretty self explanatory. Only little bit of confusion is the Presta valve location. It's not shown in the photos (well, just visible if you look hard). You could, I assume, use a Schrader valve (car type) as an alternative.
Have you sacked RM as your official tidy-uper? Your best bet for doing links and formatting the page is to copy off other pages and adapt to suit your page. Failing that I'd be happy to help.
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OK ive added a couple of pics showing the valve,the Presta valve needs a smaller hole and i find them easier to release but theres no reason the other type would,nt work
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Interesting, and well written page Keith.
I'll have a formatting tweak later.
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Thanks Tony :)
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OK apart from the biodiesel water content PPM i think ive about done,any chance of someone tidying it up please?
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Looks pretty good as is ... I'd suggest the TOC and parts list on the left as other pages and it need categories, but what else do you want doing?
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OK, had a fiddle is the current version OK?
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Looks good to me,thanks Julian
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Have you sacked RM as your official tidy-uper? Your best bet for doing links and formatting the page is to copy off other pages and adapt to suit your page. Failing that I'd be happy to help.
:-[
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Going to need all the help i can get on the plumbing page,JIM.M is going to check it over as well,thought it would save a lot of hassle if Jim was onside
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looking good ;D
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RM could do with some links and a tidy up maybe? if youve got time
Ones i can think of are your "fitting a heater flange" and the "gl thermostat rearranging" in "other"
"soldering" anywhere,
anyone think of anything else?
Maybe i ought to make my idea of an aq heater in a tube my next page :)
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wil; have a look at heater flange, wassup with it? but going to look now...
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No,nowt wrong with it,just wondered if you could put a link to it on my plumbing fittings page,cant do links
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Pull yourself together man, there's no such word as can't.
Links take two forms in the wiki ...
1) In double square brackets they link to pages within the wiki, example [[Acronyms]] will link to the Acronyms page (you just use the page title ... in bold at the top of each page). If you want another word or words to form the link you separate them with a vertical line, putting the title first, thus ... [[Acronyms|this link takes you to the acronyms page]]
2) In single square brackets they link to external sites, example [http://oil.palmergroup.co.uk] will link to what is probably one of the best oil collecting sites around. To make the text "Probably one of the best oil collecting sites around" behave as a link, you separate the URL from the text with a space, and put the URL first thus ... [[http://oil.palmergroup.co.uk Probably one of the best oil collecting sites around]]
Temped to use the term simples, but I won't!
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No,nowt wrong with it,just wondered if you could put a link to it on my plumbing fittings page,cant do links
note to self dont scan read lol....
koolio
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is the plumbing fittings page live?
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ok i have put 2 links in the plumbing page of K.H's 1 is right by the opictures of the flange ring and the other is at the base of the page as with all other pages and how links work...
please check them out for use (test) thank you,.
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Links work fine for me,cheers Mr Rottmeister,no not live yet still in progress,if you fancy a play with it feel free
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I made a minor edit as the ppm were shown as >500ppm and should be < for less than.
Looks good, and really like the home-made test.
You mentioned that when there is too much water content then the excess hydrogen created leaks out of the threading. You could always look at adding a pressure relief valve either as:
An automatic valve that opens at a given pressure (known to represent above the 500ppm water content)
Or as a manual "It's getting higher than the 500ppm allowed, let me open this valve to release the gas"
This would save the container threading from experiencing damage (even if not much) and eventually having to be replaced.
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No problem everything i upload needs a lot of proof reading ;D
Ive got a couple of refillable spray cans that incorperate a relief valve alongside the schrieder type valve,they would have been ideal but seem to be no longer available