Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
Biodiesel => Biodiesel equipment => Topic started by: jkis on September 16, 2013, 10:53:10 PM
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i did a search, couldnt find anything against using brass gate valves.
just starting out, and i have a few brass gate valves, do i have to change the seal under the handle to use them or are they fine as they are.
i would prefer to use stainless ball valves, and will upgrade when they are available
cheers stuart
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Gate valves should be fine to use, just a pain in the backside to operate in comparison to ball valves.
I think most gate valves use "O" rings or PTFE in the gland. "O" rings will most likely be nitrile which isn't really compatible with bio, but there's so little contact that they should be fine (I've run pumps with nitrile "O" rings for years with no mishaps). PTFE will be fine.
Might be worth opening one up to see what you are dealing with.
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thank you, i will open them up, would putting vaseline or grease on the O rings help to protect them,
cheers stuart
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go for ball valves all the way, quarter turn and ya done its that quick, if you ever get a leak and need to turn off a valve what would you want to grab? 1 that takes ages to turn off or one that does it in a split second, and we drop oil on the floor sometimes when we get distracted hehehe. be prepared an english term boy scotts all that...
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Ken you have got me convinced ;) this will test my scrounging ways
cheers stuart
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I've used gate valves no problem, but ball valves are quicker.
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thanks Tony, i have some small brass ball valves also some plastic ones, thought i might have to let a plastic one sit in bio for awhile to see how it went
cheers stuart
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Yes be careful with plastic stuff - some of it goes brittle over time. That said I've got some hep2o plastic pipe that I use here for hot biodiesel transfer and that's great - no sign of deterioration even after years of use!
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I've used gate valves no problem, but ball valves are quicker.
Quicker to close if you open it by mistake, but also quicker to open by mistake and easier to hook up on things and open without even realising!
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rubbers in the jp pushfit expands and leaks, used it when pumping out the bio, leaked after just a few batches
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I've no real experience with gate valves but would always chose a 1/4 turn, full bore, lever valve over one any day.
I have heard that gate valves can cause unnecessary turbulance and flow issues in certain applications. However, that is only heresay and I can't back it up with any data.
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a ball valve if left for very long periods will cease and can be a nightmare to budge espeally if left to the elements, but a gate valve with care and wd 40 will free up
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I always favor ball valves unless it only gets used every 9 months or more. am new to the bio scene but been plumbing for 35 years.
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a ball valve if left for very long periods will cease and can be a nightmare to budge espeally if left to the elements, but a gate valve with care and wd 40 will free up
With our liquids they won't, 'autolubed'!
Can't recall a single post here or VOD where this has happened.
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The plus side to a ball valve is you can quickly see if its open or closed without touching it.
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rubbers in the jp pushfit expands and leaks, used it when pumping out the bio, leaked after just a few batches
Best option is to use brass compression fittings on JG Speedfit or Hep20 pipe.
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Agreed, and don't forget inserts :)
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Yes sorry I should have mentioned that the hep2o that I've used successfully for bio transfer for years is all plumbed in with brass compression fittings + pipe inserts. I really don't see a problem with it's use for transfer and settle tanks and things like that, in fact I plan to use it extensively on my new settle tank arrangement.
One chap I know used it for part of his processor main loop pipework, despite my misgivings it seems to have survived over a year - not sure I'd be that happy dewatering at 105C with it though!
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it is rated to 92c but will withstand up to 114c for short periods. If connecting to a copper cylinder then use 1 meter of copper pipe because of residual heat.
Well that's what the manufacture says.
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It survives well in veg too, I made a heater coil out of it and use it to warm up my veg settling tank for glyc washing and the like.
plumbed into my boiler circuit with by pass valves.