Biopowered - vegetable oil and biodiesel forum
Oil Feedstock => Oil coarse filtering, settling, drying and storage => Topic started by: nathanrobo on March 03, 2013, 06:45:25 PM
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Wanted to improve on drying without bio spitting everywhere. Last set up soaked the area around it, so this time I've lowered the SB and it seems to dry very effectively but without spitting bio everywhere. Next job fit an extractor and duct the water vapour out.
On the first vid, you can really see the water vapourising.
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y363/nathanrobo/th_IMG_2671.jpg) (http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y363/nathanrobo/IMG_2671.mp4)[/url]
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y363/nathanrobo/th_IMG_2675.jpg) (http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y363/nathanrobo/IMG_2675.mp4)[/url]
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Would this work when heating the oil for wvo use??
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like the second video its really got it going on nathan, nice one...
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Would this work when heating the oil for wvo use??
Yep, I've used one to dry feedstock on the past and it's pretty effective. You should ensure that it's reasonable well filter first or else you'd be forever clearing the holes in the SB out.
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Is that Nylon tubing? Do you know what temp it can take?
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Is that Nylon tubing? Do you know what temp it can take?
i may have some
15mm nice pipe size
;D
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It looks to be the HEP type, it's used on CH and hot water, so should be fine for us.
I have some that will be a cold water feed to my shed, I should have enough left for a spray bar.
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I think the stuff I used for my central heating said 80C constant, 110 maximum.
It should say on it somewhere. Although that is under pressure, although I don't recall how much it is rated for, so I would imagine it could take more heat at low pressure.
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It looks to be the HEP type, it's used on CH and hot water, so should be fine for us.
I have some that will be a cold water feed to my shed, I should have enough left for a spray bar.
i used to fit the ol hep2o in boats, we hsd to change where seen as when hot it grows, so used to get sags between pipe clips. beit real good pipe, just wanted to share as in a ring it may change the sparay patternn.
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anyway off back to music weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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Is that Nylon tubing? Do you know what temp it can take?
Tony
The white spray bar tube is 22mm speedfit pipe for central heating. The other tube is the return from the regulator on my fuge.
Not sure bout temp, but pressure wise a standard boiler would have a 3.5 bar pressure relief valve on it. Some boilers have a 7 bar PRV, so I'm guessing that the pipe should be good for more pressure than a tam or similar can give it.
I wander if relatively low pressure injector nozzles (old ones) would do a better job?
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Is that Nylon tubing? Do you know what temp it can take?
Tony
The white spray bar tube is 22mm speedfit pipe for central heating. The other tube is the return from the regulator on my fuge.
Not sure bout temp, but pressure wise a standard boiler would have a 3.5 bar pressure relief valve on it. Some boilers have a 7 bar PRV, so I'm guessing that the pipe should be good for more pressure than a tam or similar can give it.
I wander if relatively low pressure injector nozzles (old ones) would do a better job?
Thinking around your injectors idea what about using the same nozzles as used for mist washing?
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Thinking around your injectors idea what about using the same nozzles as used for mist washing?
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I've got one somewhere. I'd need to think about configuration as they've traditionally been put into a lid. Maybe I should do this when the extractor is... extracting!
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Have you got air bubbling in there as well Nathan?
Nice idea to use the plastic pipe, certainly a lot easier to bed nicely than copper. I may just go and steal from off my brother.
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Have you got air bubbling in there as well Nathan?
Nice idea to use the plastic pipe, certainly a lot easier to bed nicely than copper. I may just go and steal from off my brother.
I can answer that for you Richard, no air bubbling going on . Yes the plastic pipe was a good idea of Nathans. Very quick and easy to make.
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Think I might have found a simple solution to the bio vapours that fill the work area during SB drying. I tried putting a drum strainer over the top of the tank during drying, which appears to catch the fine bio droplets but let out the water vapour / steam.
The result was a that the air wasn't full of that pungent bio smell.
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Just because you cant smell the bio vapours Nathan does not mean you're not breathing in a toxic level of methanol fumes.
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I'm sure you have some scientific figures to back up the PPM level of the fumes in your work space considering you're offering this up as a solution?
Something of a rhetorical question me thinks!
Anyhow, he's talking about bio fumes and water vapour not methanol fumes.
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Assuming that he's got all the methanol out to begin with.
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The rhetorical element of my post two above this one has now been removed and modified but now becomes an issue with the potential of poorly demethed being dried in this way and liberating unknown levels of methanol vapours into the workspace.
I think it's a dangerous game to offer up solutions to problems without any thought of additional issues.
What someone thinks works for himself is not necessarily a solution for others.
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So how much methanol is left in water washed bio ? (I know this is a how long is a pice of string question).
I would imagine that it's lower than in demeth and settled bio.
The reason I ask is I have previously washed and dried my bio in the reactor (condensed off),
but due to time constraints I've now setup a wash/drying drum with spray bar.
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wouldn't a hood over the settling tank with a large vent do the trick? 21/2 inch drainpipe or something like that. the hood could go over the drum completely then there should not be any fumes at all getting into the workspace.? or to be precise very few.
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The problem here is nobody knows about the levels of methanol left behind.
I think that what Nathan has done regarding his cover is fine for what he claims about his bio fumes. But, there is the potential for residual methanol left behind in whatever process he currently employs to be liberated into the workspace unknowingly.
I think a disclaimer is required here that residual methanol could be liberated and your workspace should be adequatly ventilated.
Safety first.
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So how much methanol is left in water washed bio ? (I know this is a how long is a pice of string question).
I would imagine that it's lower than in demeth and settled bio.
The reason I ask is I have previously washed and dried my bio in the reactor (condensed off),
but due to time constraints I've now setup a wash/drying drum with spray bar.
It definitely seems to be worth doing... again Keith's meth testing kit (with breathalyser), will show various results over time. Talk to KH as he's graphed it.
I've taken to demething bio after dropping the glyc and then water washing. I'm pump washing in processor and then settling for a few days. I then dispense, pump into my drier, polisher, dispenser (one batch in the processor = two tanks full in the dispensing tank).
Also spoke to James RL about, making some kind of extracting hood utilising a boiler fan.
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wouldn't a hood over the settling tank with a large vent do the trick? 21/2 inch drainpipe or something like that. the hood could go over the drum completely then there should not be any fumes at all getting into the workspace.? or to be precise very few.
I wandered whether a oven extractor hood could be converted. Would the filters get all clogged up very quickly? Could these be replaced by foam which could be wrung out into the feedstock every now and then?
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Here's a vid to demonstrate - the fuel is reasonably dry but you can see light steam coming off the top:
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y363/nathanrobo/th_IMG_3118.jpg) (http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y363/nathanrobo/IMG_3118.mp4)[/url]